Unplug AWD Coupler and/or remove drive shaft...horrible idea?

[JRL1500]

2009 Nissan Rogue S AWD, 145K on the clock, creaking and popping in the parking lot or taking slow speed turns. Bought it because the local shop told me that the sound was from the CV axle and they'd swap it out. They did...it just didn't fix the problem. Shop was cool about it, knocked 40% off the job since the CV axle did need to be replaced (torn boot), but recommended I take it to a transmission shop. Words I don't like using in the same sentence, "Nissan" and "transmission".

Car runs great on the highway, transmission doesn't jerk or slip, it's just the slower speed stuff, and from what I've read, that's the electronic coupler at the rear differential. Can't put a $1200 part on a $2500 car... I've seen folks talk about just unplugging the coupler. Seen some others go as far as removing the driveshaft, effectively converting an AWD to a FWD. This car is lightly used, Point A to Point B, literally about 5 miles per day in the city. Unplugging the coupler seems to actually be the test that Nissan recommends to rule it out, so obviously it can be run like that, but seems iffy longer term (imagine it'll trip a code at some point). Removing the driveshaft is a bigger job but one I could do easily enough...unless it's a dumb idea.

What say y'all?

[VStar650CL]

Assuming the transmission case is good, there's absolutely nothing wrong with getting rid of the driveshaft and making it 2WD. There's not even anything wrong with stripping the viscous coupler if necessary and dispensing with that. Nissan purposely made the system modular on most models (including your Rogue) so a simple change to the transmission case allows adding all the AWD hardware without altering anything else on the car. The only thing you can't strip off with impunity is the transmission case.

[JRL1500]

Ok, that's looking up

What's your thoughts on JUST unplugging the electronic coupling? My hunch is that it won't do much good, whatever may be jacked up in there is still turning...just not plugged up. WHOLE lot easier if all I had to do was slide under the car and pull that plug, which I'll probably do to test, but not sure how long I'll run it like that.

Anything in particular I should be looking at to say whether the transmission case is good or not?

You say stripping the viscous coupler, that something you'd only look at if the unit was so trashed that it was still causing issues (from the rear wheels turning) even without the driveshaft?

Thanks!

[VStar650CL]

Depends if the problem is in the coupler or the driveshaft. If the coupler is leaked out then it can cause problems even if it's unplugged. If it just has worn out plates then it's fine to unplug it and leave it alone. Don't assume it isn't the driveshaft causing the issue, that's at least as common as a bad coupler. Drop the shaft and see if the noises go away, if they don't then the problem is in or south of the coupler. Have a listen with a stethoscope in AWD lock before you drop the shaft, the steth will usually tell you if the problem is in the diff or the output side of the coupler. If the noise is the same in and out of lock, then you know it's in the shaft or the input side of the coupler.

Vis the xfer case, if it isn't making noise and isn't leaking, consider it good.

[JRL1500]

So...rode around in the car again, the creaking and popping is definitely coming from the front of the car, not the back. I'm guessing that will rule out driveshaft and coupler. Car seems to drive and shift fine, so if the creaking and popping (I know those terms are subjective, apologies) is coming from the front, may be more steering or suspension related. Any known problem areas that a guy with a set of ramps and a 10mm socket can check?

[VStar650CL]

Subframe and gussets. Check all 4 corners for deteriorated rubber and make sure all fasteners are tight.

[JRL1500]

Looks like I've got a weekend project. Thanks for the assist!

[JRL1500]

Subframe and gussets. Check all 4 corners for deteriorated rubber and make sure all fasteners are tight.

Just got through watching a video on what appears to be replacement of the subframe bushings. Let's just say...I hope something's just loose

[VStar650CL]

Just got through watching a video on what appears to be replacement of the subframe bushings. Let's just say...I hope something's just loose

Yep. The preferred tools are C4 or tactical nuclear weapons.