Before starting this experimental project, I posted on this forum. Helpful information was to use the 1978 transmission and clutch pack together with the engine because of the tilt toward the passenger side. Another Datsun forum which seems to now be defunct (NW Datsun Enthusiasts) offered the additional valuable tip of putting the 4x4 oil pan and sump tube onto the L20B because of how the front differential rests. All these suggestions I have followed.
Here are the unexpected difficulties:
With the reversed engine tilt, the 4x4 oil pan seems to encroach on the area of where the front differential need to be. Presently the front diff is not bolted into it's mounts but it seems to not have the room to be put back into place. Presently I'm fiddling with various combinations of motor mounts to see what can be done about this.
The one measurement I failed to make before beginning this whole adventure was the height of the cylinder head + valve cover. Seems the L20B is about 2 inches taller than the LZ22(s). This is the least of my concerns at this point. If the hood can't close then I will just leave it off for now and later cut a hole and add a 1/2 coffee can as a bulge.
My question for the forum is what to do about getting the front differential back into it's home position? Some particular combination of motor mounts?
I've notice the traditional L series has two bolt holes on the block for the mount brackets. The LZ has the same on the driver side but a unique triangular bolt pattern on the passenger side. I've already put the driver side LZ (4x4) bracket on the passenger side of the L20B, which helped raise the block somewhat. I'm tempted to drill new holes on the passenger side LZ bracket and make it fit on the driver side.
This engine swap seemed so simple in the beginning from what I knew. Maybe it will turn out to be impossible but I'm not ready to give up just yet.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!