Can I get new 10mm bolts and the specialized nuts that hold on to the plastic anywhere online reasonably priced?

All of the 10mm bolts are rusted and most of the ones with the odd nut-type things are seized. I'm going to dremel them off, unless there's a better recommendation.

Right now changing the oil even is quite a challenge as I can't get the whole underside tray removed.

This is why the first thing I did when I got my car is got a TollBoothWilley undertray with oil change doors...I haven't removed my tray in years to change my oil.

That being said, I still have a few bolts that ripped out of the bumper holes over the years.

I would imagine any hardware store has what you need for probably a dollar or two a set...

Those original bolts & speed-nuts seized on mine, and attempts at removal (for oil changes) just shredded most of the plastic mount points where the speed-nuts were clipped on. I replaced all those rusty bolts with standard metric (M6?) bolts made of Stainless Steel, but that didn't help, cuz the SS bolts still got seized on those awful speed-nuts that continued to rust. Grr.

Now there's nothing left of the surrounding plastic mount points where the speed-nuts once were. So my "skid tray" is barely hanging on, and there's nothing else more solid to attach its edges. Stupid design. Was guaranteed to shred when rusted.

The Toll-Booth Willey tray looks so nice, but I think it still attaches to the same stupid surrounding plastic mount points (now gone). Perhaps I might rebuild those shredded mount points by using pop rivets to attach a patch of L-shaped aluminum sheeting to the hanging plastic? Then use NON-rusting fasteners. Or I might just toss the skid-plate?

I did that on my Maxima...got rid of the whole thing. A time will come I'm sure where it'll happen here too.

I would not get rid of it; it has a lot of benefits key of which are aerodynamics (hence fuel economy) and cleanliness (corroded bolts suck, they suck even more when attached to your engine).

I have contemplated the metal reinforcement idea, but the situation has not gotten dire enough to actually build my prototypes.
What I'd do for the time being is to secure as many of the other fasteners as possible, then tuck the front of the shield into the bumper cover. So typically this flap is the bottom-most, but with no mounting points the bumper cover material end up being the bottom-most item - not perfect, but it works great.
Sometimes, if the plastic is trashed enough, I get to a point where I don't mind involving zip ties around stabilizer bars, etc.

ArmedAviator wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 29, 2019 3:04 pm

Can I get new 10mm bolts and the specialized nuts that hold on to the plastic anywhere online reasonably priced?

All of the 10mm bolts are rusted and most of the ones with the odd nut-type things are seized. I'm going to dremel them off, unless there's a better recommendation.

Right now changing the oil even is quite a challenge as I can't get the whole underside tray removed.

McMaster-Carr has the 6mm spring nuts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/spring-nuts

They have the 6mm bolts too, in different materials:
https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-bolts

I recently replaced bolts and repaired mount points for my skid tray. I used these from Amazon:

28pc Engine Splash Shield Body Bolts Bumper Fender Clips for Infiniti G35 G37 FX35 FX45 EX35 Nissan 370Z 350Z
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QCV1HG/

They will rust just as fast (or maybe faster) than OEM, but I slathered the threads with anti-seize compound and should be able to remove them even if rusted. They held fine and were a drop in replacement for thread and fitment.

I’ve also created some 3D-printed patches (using PETG plastic) that can be used to repair mounting points for the skid tray. If anyone has an interest I can share the STL files.

Ilya wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 29, 2019 5:47 pm

This is why the first thing I did when I got my car is got a TollBoothWilley undertray with oil change doors...I haven't removed my tray in years to change my oil.

That being said, I still have a few bolts that ripped out of the bumper holes over the years.

I would imagine any hardware store has what you need for probably a dollar or two a set...

Does the access door give enough room to get a strap wrench on the oil filter and to have it drain w/o a mess? I couldn't tell from the pics on their site. Actually the pic they had up, those doors didn't seem to match the location of the oil filter.

Yep, there are no issues. My version is the very first one he built so MY door is a smidge off but he corrected the location after we re-measured. I can get an oil wrench in their (not a strap wrench) no problem and I use a piece of plastic to 'guide' the oil away from anything that could collect it other than my collector.

For the oil pan, I use a oil tap with a hose. Just open the tap and the oil flows out. I never remove any oil drain bolts, etc.