Underbody/Undercarriage Rust Protection Spray

[SFBayQ45]

Has anyone done any sort of rust protection on their vehicle? Is there a recommended franchise shop that does this well? How does one go about finding the appropriate shop to do this sort ofr job? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

[qship96]

Most USA based shops seem to have disappeared over the years{Ziebart, Rusty Jones,etc}. In Canada Krown seems to be a big franchised operation along with Rust check.

I have read on other forums that Eureka Fluid Film is popular here in the USA with do it your selfers and very popular with the farmers/agricultural set- it is basically a lanolin based wool wax derived from sheep- every John Deere retailer retails it for about $9 per can{ also available in bulk gallons/drums}

Google "Eureka Fluid Film" to see their website and learn more- I am considering picking up some to try around the house and on the lawn mower,etc- some just may end up being sprayed at the ole Q!!!!

[unknown007]

My car has rust like crazy.

[maxnix]

Used motor oil. Apply monthly.

[Infinitiguy19]

Might try grease.

But the car must be free of rust to make rust proof.

What do you guys think of the rubber undercoating they sell at stores?

[bullittandy]

Based on the two previous posters age, the first was joking, the second may not have been.

I think that if you plan on keeping the car for a long time and it has current rust then you might really interview people that rust proof cars since it seems that this can be a real shady job since it is so easy to half-a**.

I like the spray on stuff from the stores-it sticks like crazy to a clean surface.

[yodawill2000]

Chassis Black !!!Used it on my old 63 4X4 and its still in perfect shape.Although we don't have the salty road issue down here.

[lino]

I've had my car done. I think it's necessary to do in Canada, a lot of people don't though since they lease cars for 4 years and dump them.

There are so many companies that offer it here. I really don't know who is best. One thing that I find to be important is to find one that uses an amber colored product as opposed to a black color so that when it creeps you don't have an ugly mess.

qship96 is right. In Canada Rust Check and Krown are very popular probably because they are everywhere. The owners of both those companies used to be partners once upon a time and had a fight. They split and now they are competitors.

There is another company http://www.corrosionfree.com/index.htm

They claim that their product is clean, clear, drip-free, solvent-free, odor-free, non-toxic, a super lubricating metal conditioner with creeping and penetrating benefits - all in one formula.

It is not a sealant that traps moisture, or an oil spray that rots rubber, damages plastic and tend to be messy and drippy. It contains active moisture displacers that last up to 18 months. Because it is clean and transparent you can actually see it preserving the original "factory new" appearance. It does not dry out, chip or peel off and its lubricating benefits continue indefinately."

There is also:

Rustblock® Diamond·Kote CounterAct Corrosion Protection

[pittbull2403]

ok so the best place to get it done is at a dealership or a major body shop i have been doing bodywork for ten years now and i see the best work from them plus it has warranty and thay specialize in it but it might cost a few hundred

[qship96]

Dealership? bodyshop? uh, no thanks....either take it to a rust treatment SPECIALIST, like Krown or Rust-Check, or do it yourself.......having it done at a new/used car dealer just guarantees some 19 year old flunkie kid will be learning on your car{have you ever actually walked to the back of a new car dealership and watched who is actually doing the new car cleanup prep work and undercoating, paint sealant,etc.......kids

[pittbull2403]

ok so i guess at whatever shops you have been to but thay are the best way to go if you see the product thay use at rust check in extream heat it runs off in a goo ive seen many complaints and your right a lot of dealerships have kids working for them but thay also get trained to do there job i work for toyota now and out of about 150 employees only about 10 of them are under 20 but hey to each there own right

[trojanxxx]

I am writing to all vehicle owners about the undercarriage Rust protection I had done on my Toyota Tacoma 2008 4X4 at the dealership.

Just like one guy said in one of the posts, big mistake. A company called "AutoSmith" here in Utah was subcontracted by the Toyota dealership to do it.

It spattered everywhere. Windshield wiper reservoir, chrome tip, fan, engine block, FREAKING everywhere!!!

Absolutely careless! I suggest people who decide to apply rust protection either they do it themselves or through a specialized body shop.

[BadQ45t]

the problem with putting a rust proofer over an already rusting car is that it will not stop the mother rust from eating your car. To do it right if you expect to keep the car you need to cut out those sections. Beyond that undercoating stuff works okay, this was a huge issue with 70's and 80's Nissans, my Z had it big time but my Q has been fine and my 05' Xterra is parked in the street is fine too.

[qship96]

Rust remains a problem at nissan/Infiniti, it was not "cured" after the 70s-80s. Almost every single 90-96Q and J30 left around here has visible rust......NEVER,Ever seen a similar vintage LS400/ls430 with a spec of rust. Infiniti just recalled pathfindres/QX4 for serious structural rust in shock towers, and are refusing to let owners with bad cases of it pick up their cars if they fail the inspection,giving cash offers to compensate owners. Nissan refused to use galvanized steel like most other manufacturers commonly use, and continue to push their own version "dura-steel".......it is anything but durable.

[maxnix]

Nissan refused to use galvanized steel like most other manufacturers commonly use, and continue to push their own version "dura-steel".......it is anything but durable.

Actually, Infiniti was one of the first to use double galvanized steel. But once that galvanization is penetrated, all bets are off in the salt belt.

[qship96]

Nissan refused to use galvanized steel like most other manufacturers commonly use, and continue to push their own version "dura-steel".......it is anything but durable.

Actually, Infiniti was one of the first to use double galvanized steel. But once that galvanization is penetrated, all bets are off in the salt belt.

Show me ONE official nissan document that mentions the word "galvanized" steel is used, bet you wont find one.....I can show you plenty{including the original g50 sales literature} that say they use their own made up "dura-steel" as their corrosion fighter, and it does not work!

Galvanazation "is not penetrated" on the FAMOUS g50 rust areas {rear wheel wells and rear door sills} as the rust begins in both places FROM THE INSIDE OUT.....guess you would know that if you lived in the "salt belt" or any coastal area subject to salt spray and breezes!

Explain why, if Infiniti used a true galvanazation process {like Lexus} why all the g50s are rusting around here, and not a single LS have I ever seen with rust issues.....how would infinitis all have "penetrated" galvanizing, yet ls400s dont????? SIMPLE answer, one is truly galvanized, one is not.........

[willmoodom]

Rust? Oh do I have rust. Mine is so bad that the parts infected look flaky. My question is this. Is there any such thing as spot blast? Sand blasting small multiple spots instead of the conventional frame off blasting. My concern are the nuts and bolts. I would like to blast any and all bolt and nut locations under the car. This would allow me to remove things for repairs such as the rear frame. Just found out I need new bushings. The worst of the rust seems to be located on the control arms front/back. Front spindle.

[OwnerCS]

Rust? Oh do I have rust. Mine is so bad that the parts infected look flaky. My question is this. Is there any such thing as spot blast? Sand blasting small multiple spots instead of the conventional frame off blasting. My concern are the nuts and bolts. I would like to blast any and all bolt and nut locations under the car. This would allow me to remove things for repairs such as the rear frame. Just found out I need new bushings. The worst of the rust seems to be located on the control arms front/back. Front spindle.

Harbor freight sells a couple of small "soda blaster" units. I bought one for last year for $19 and rented a portable "gas powered" compressor. The compressor was $45 for a weekend.

[StevieRaySTL]

-- We dropped my subframe and control arms, had it all sandblated (75 bux), painted it with that POR-15 stuff, and put it back in with collars.