Under plenum parts list recommendations

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

It looks like I will enjoy pulling the plenum to replace the hoses on my lower miles 1995 Q45t since a coolant hose is seeping.

I have the hose list, but what else should I include? (Thanks Daedalus or LonAllen, I think.)

Sparkplugs at 31,000 mi.?

EGR cleaning (any gaskets)?

Intake manifold gaskets?

Heater hoses if they still appear good and are not brittle?

Should I flush the coolant and switch to OAT, or stay with the Nissan recommended fluid (flushed by dealer 6 months 6,000 miles ago. Certain it was not distilled water fill.)?

Should I wait for the shop manual to become available, or can someone clue me into the torque settings and tightening sequences on the plenum, etc?

I would like to do it this August before the Seattle rain festival resumes.

Thanks.

Post by **PalmerWMD** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Double flush w/ distilled water (58cents a gallon at walmart) and then refill with say 70% dist water (depending on location/climate, I dont recommend 50/50 unless you are about to face a northern winter).You can add a bottle of redline wetter water as well if you like.

As for green vs orange:Orange is a somewhat better fill, which I prefer.BUT you neeed to be absolutley sure that ALL the green is out in order to switch to orange.If you DIY multiple flushes then ok, but if you are having a shop use they machines for one ( or even 2 runs even w/ supplied dist water) runs then you are asking for trouble and its safer to go with the old fill.

I agonized over these very same questions as my previous Q was orange filled and I wanted to do orange again for this one too.But as I lack the facilties here (live in apt complex and I live far from Knox) I went with a double distilled flush and the refill including green so as not to risk any mixing.

( I did go with the Nissan green tho, which has a pretty good rep)

Fred...

Post by **PalmerWMD** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Clean the idle control valve while you are it.Plugs, well, tough choice 31,000 miles is not all that much for platinum plug,s even in the Q engine u'd expect 60,000 miles out of them.

T3 recommends due to labor concerns, when the plugs have over 30,000 miles on them and you are in there anyway to change them.

Fred...

Post by **AZhitman** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Swap the plugs Bri - Even though they don't have the miles, they've been in a while. Obviously you'll be getting with Joe for the under plenum kit, he has a DEAL on plugs.

Clean the plenum and throttle body well and give her a can or two of BG over the next few months, swap the fuel filter and an oil change after you button it all up and drive a while...

Post by **Aus94Q45** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

I had the same done recently. I recall Dennis recommeding changing out the knock sensors while you have it off.

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Thenks Fred, Greg and Aus94q45. I will inspect the KSs, but the under hood is so pristine, I doubt I will do it at this time as they do not seem to require it as the low miles mean few thermal cycles in a generally cool climate (previously NYC).

PVC valve is something to include on my list.

Anyone remember the code for forcing the heating core fully open? I think lonallenq45 posted it.

By the way, AusQ45, I will be there at the end of September. Maybe we can hook-up and compare notes. I am not impressed with the dealer, so will be looking for someone to do pan drop and flush and cooler install. Might get that rear sway bar also.

Post by **Aus94Q45** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Let me know when you are in town. I know a shop up north of town that has been doing quality work on my 94. The dealer is very pricey on service and always provides a $2K to $4K list of other things that you "need" done. They misdiagnosed a leaking radiator that last time I was there, and that is the last time . . .

Post by **911/Q45** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Turn ignition on, press HVAC off button within 10 sec for 5 sec, press hot 3 times, press defrost 2 times, display should read 43, wait 10 sec before turning ignition off. Good luck!

Post by **ardvarkus** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Aus94Q45 wrote:I had the same done recently. I recall Dennis recommeding changing out the knock sensors while you have it off.

I'd not replace them unless bad. Check them out electrically (codes and actual impedance check) AND a visual inspection. If the cases are cracked it may indicate a 'failure to be'... that is one of the bullets that hurts to bite ($400 for two sensors plus a harness...ouch)

Adam

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Adam,

I have no indication they are causing any trouble, but am a little unsure if a straight resistance test will confirm proper operation. Car is low mileage, engine pristine with no signs of over heating.

Is there any other method other than a consult?

Thanks 911/Q45 for the code override for the heater control valve.

Post by **Q45tech** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

"codes and actual impedance check) "Impedence is an AC term and needs an Impedence bridge to measure. Other than audio speakers impedence is not a term one would use associated with a cars sensor system.Resistance the DC term is the correct usage and thankfully an inexpensive VOM can measure it.

At startup and periodically the resistance of KS is measured by applying +5 volts across the the unit and the audio [afterall it acts just like a microphone is coupled via a capacitor to ecu where the noise is amplified and processed, then gated to only allow noise that falls in the narrow time slot when knock could occur [15-20 degrees every 90 in alternating banks].If the resistance [and thus bias flow] changes by +15% the ecu notices and throws a code and automatically reduces ignition advance ......thus the very sluggish [bucking] engine performane on minor accelerations especially noticable in 3rd and 4th gears!

The secret of knock sensors is to ignore all noises that couldn't be knock [preignition] but as the bearings and pistion pin wear the background noise builds and builds reducing the knock signal to noise thus the dynamic range.

Post by **ardvarkus** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Q45tech wrote:"codes and actual impedance check) "Impedence is an AC term and needs an Impedence bridge to measure. Other than audio speakers impedence is not a term one would use associated with a cars sensor system.Resistance the DC term is the correct usage and thankfully an inexpensive VOM can measure it.

Dennis- Just to quibble, and you do like to...

Impedance, when measured at DC (0 Hz) is resistance.

So, technically, it is still an impedance- although I'll grant you not a common term in the auto repair world.

(It is, as you correctly point out, more commonly associated with speaker/audio system design in cars.)

In my world, DC is just the beginning....

Adam

Post by **Q451990** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Even if you don't replace the sensors - I'd replace the harness... it's a known issue on the Q's. You can check for detonation sensor codes with the ECU (count the flashes) if you want - but the ohm test should be adequate.

There's a hard balance to strike between throwing parts at a car and taking a chance of having to pull the "damn spider" off again in six months...The harness should costs $80 list so I'd think you can order it for about $60-65.

While you have everything off, I'd ohm test the injectors. If you have any out of spec. units I'd move them to the 1 or 2 slots so you can replace them without pulling the plenum. Just remember to use new o-rings and vasoline or dielectric grease during the reinstallation.

Heath

Post by **azskygod** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Q451990 wrote:There's a hard balance to strike between throwing parts at a car and taking a chance of having to pull the "damn spider" off again in six months...

Heath, you read my mind... While not that complicated, it is a time-consuming job and not something I would want to do twice. Damn spiders!

azskygod

Post by **AZhitman** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

AZ - Let me know if you ever do pull your plenum again - I'd like to drive over and observe.

I have the extended warranty, so I won't be doing it for a while - but I can live vicariously under other Q hoods!

Post by **azskygod** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Actually, it's still in pieces in my garage waiting for $350 in parts (slow progress because of the AZ heat). Are you sure you want to see it? I think I'd rather watch open heart surgery on PBS... Less blood and gore.

I'll see if I can snap some photos this weekend. If you're out this way, don't forget to make a speed run west down Sun Valley Parkway. I hit 160 mph on it a few years ago when the Q only had 100,000 miles. Ahh... Memories.

azskygod

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

Here is a complete 'hose order'for a 1995 Q45/t non-TCS. (with knock sensors and harness thrown in for good measure.)

Thanks to Frank and Joe at infinitipartsusa.com (888) 216-5328 for revising and completing this order.

These are the exact terminology used by infiniti (useless, eh?) You'll need 8 of the manifold gaskets,

HOSE ROCKR CVR 11826-60U68HOSE ROCKR CVR 11826-60U69HOSE-BLOW BY,A 11826-67U24HOSE-BLOW BY,A 11826-60U65HOSE-BLOW BY,A 11826-60U67HOSE ASSY-BLOW BY,A 11823-60U62HOSE ROCKR CVR 11826-60U66HOSE ROCKR CVR 11826-64U61HOSE ASSY-BLOW BY,A 11823-60U60HOSE ASSY-BLOW BY,A 11823-60U61HOSE-AIR 14099-60U60HOSE-AIR 14099-60U63HOSE-AIR 14099-60U61HOSE-AIR 14099-60U09HOSE-AIR 14099-60U06GASKET-INTAKE MANIFOLD 14032-60U01GASKET-THROTTLE CHAMBER 16175-61U00GASKET ACC VALVE 23785-60U01GASKET-EGR CONTROL V 14719-W7001

HOSE-WATER, BYPASS 14055-F6511HOSE-WATER 14055-60U60HOSE-WATER 14055-60U70HOSE-WATER 14056-60U09HOSE-WATER 14056-60U00HOSE-WATER 14056-60U05HOSE-WATER, BYPASS 14056-60U08HOSE-WATER, BYPASS 14056-64u10HOSE, 14056-64u08HOSE, 14056-64u00

RADIATOR HOSE-UPPER 21501-60U10RADIATOR HOSE-LOWER 21503-60U10

HOSE-FRONT HEATER,1 92400-61U20HOSE-FRONT HEATER,2 92410-61U20

and two knock sensors.

SENSOR ASSY-KNOCK 22060-30P00HARNESS-ENGINE SUB 24079-60U00

Post by **fxjackso** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:25 pm

See buy/sell/trade for a set of most of the parts listed by Brian, for 90-93. Most seem interchangable with later years. Thanks.

Under plenum parts list recommendations

Under plenum parts list recommendations

Adding to the list

Heater Core Code

KS assessment

Revised coomplete hose list

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