typical machine costs

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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emperor_lunchbox
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Hello, I am looking around for a shop to machine my block and heads. I am thinking about a mild port and polish and valve job for the head and boreing the block 20 over.What would this cost typically. I dont want to pay too much, I have a specific budget, the more I spend on this the less I spend on boost.thanks.


TrueSlide
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That depends on your area and who is doing the work. A mild p&p w/ valve job can vary depends on whose definition of what is mild. I would recommend a decently mild cam to go with the p&p or its kinda like shooting your self in the foot.

Ask around find out who does the best work. Be wary of cheap p&p jobs, you dont want a hacked up head, no good. Any true race shop can do a great job, but be prepared to churn out some $$, that is if they are even willing to do it.

As far as getting the blocked bored, no idea. Prices vary from locations.

bruinbear714
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TrueSlide wrote:That depends on your area and who is doing the work. A mild p&p w/ valve job can vary depends on whose definition of what is mild. I would recommend a decently mild cam to go with the p&p or its kinda like shooting your self in the foot.

Ask around find out who does the best work. Be wary of cheap p&p jobs, you dont want a hacked up head, no good. Any true race shop can do a great job, but be prepared to churn out some $$, that is if they are even willing to do it.

As far as getting the blocked bored, no idea. Prices vary from locations.
Bored block & hot tank is under $100, but if you have them assemble everything (bottom end), it can cost around $500

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emperor_lunchbox
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really, I was thinking it would be more than that. I might skip out on the port and polish if I would need to replace the cams. I dont want a race car, I want a 300 WHP street car. I still might do the valve job thought.Does anyone have a ballpark figure for head work leaving out variables.I just want an estimate, I only have 3k left. with that 3k I need to rebuild, purchase turbo stuff and install. Not to mention I have an auto and it will be going to manual. I found a place that will do it for 1000. If anyone knows of some place that will to an auto to manual for less than 1k please let me know.Thanks.

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Chezedik
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I paid 450 for a port match, mild port, .009" surface, and new seals.

Florida240sx
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Goign to have a guy rebuild my motor for 250. Just boring 20 over and checking clearances.

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Chezedik
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There must be a lot of competition in FL, because I would pay almost 200 just for a bore over.

Skidmark
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Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on head work if you're not going higher than 300WHP. You can go way higher than that on a bone stock head with a very usable powerband. Spend the money making the motor more reliable (i.e. get a metal head gasket and a good radiator) I would definitely recommend the bottom end rebuild, though. Just my $.02

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dickie
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its my understanding that most of the work done to the head wont net you a lot of powergain anyways, relatively. cams play with the powerband and make it work more to your advantage, and port/polish is more for throttle response and flow purposes. so once youve got your power-adder on and the vitals reinforced to accomodate it, whats wrong with this kind of tuning?

TrueSlide
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Doing headwork will net you good gains if done correctly, the key to HP is through the head. Cams do play with the powerband but they also add great power if you can get a port job matched to the cam. Remember its all about flow and velocity, with that you make HP.

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dickie
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d!ck wrote:its my understanding that most of the work done to the head wont net you a lot of powergain anyways, relatively.
i can definitely see the advantages of tuning the head when boosting. esp. to reach his hp goal. but the majority of his power is coming from the turbo, the headwork works to make the most out of it. im having a hard time turning thoughts into words tonight

TrueSlide
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So your saying headwork on a NA motor is not benefical?

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emperor_lunchbox
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The main reason I wanted to port and polish was to basically clean it. I may skip the 3 angle valve job, but I definately want at least a polish. My power goals arent too lofty, I just want something fun and I would like to try to break the 12 second barrier. 12.9 is my goal.

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Chezedik
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A multi-angle job can be most beneficial, since it is done to keep compression. This is important in high compression and boosted engines to prevent back-fires, and make more power through the kept compression.


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