1989 NISSAN 240SX L4-2389cc 2.4L F/I Vin KA24E ID#7924 SOHC
First these are the compression readings in each Cylinder 1, 40LB 2, 40LB 3, 40LB 4, 60LBI know I should have about 192LB could a bad head gasket cause this.What should I check?I don't think all the valves could stick or all the pistons could go at once.
Second I would like to put a DOHC head on this car will it fit on the same block and will I have to change the Intake and exhaust or injectors?
I'm serving over-seas so any help is greatly appreciated there is not an abundance of honest race shops.
Two things at once
Re: Two things at once (rudy543us)
Is that after you warmed up the car? If so, yea, probably head gasket (and maybe other things).
as for the dohc head swap. it's possible, you just use a lil button in the upper right corner called "Search".
as for the dohc head swap. it's possible, you just use a lil button in the upper right corner called "Search".
Re: Two things at once (rudy543us)
drip maybe a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and check again...If compression rises it could be piston rings...
Also have you checked the coolant/oil levels? Headgaskets are often accompanied by coolant leaking into the crankcase causeing milky looking oil...start it cold with the radiator cap open, If it wont start have a friend watch while you crank, a blown head gasget can also cause buble in the radiator...
If you have access to a compressed air source you might try renting a leak down tester from the autoparts store. It is simmilar to a compresion tester but it pressurises the cylinder, that way you can listen for a leak...Make sure the valve on the cylinder being checked are close(engine off). oil filler means head gasket, intake = intake valves, ect. ect....
Also have you checked the coolant/oil levels? Headgaskets are often accompanied by coolant leaking into the crankcase causeing milky looking oil...start it cold with the radiator cap open, If it wont start have a friend watch while you crank, a blown head gasget can also cause buble in the radiator...
If you have access to a compressed air source you might try renting a leak down tester from the autoparts store. It is simmilar to a compresion tester but it pressurises the cylinder, that way you can listen for a leak...Make sure the valve on the cylinder being checked are close(engine off). oil filler means head gasket, intake = intake valves, ect. ect....
Re: Two things at once (Red coupe)
So I rebuilt my engine and here is were I'm at now. Can you help?
My 1989 240SX KA24e has no power till I get to 3500 or higher, I just rebuilt the engine. I took the engine completely apart and replaced the piston rings and head gasket and all related seals.
So some replies to this that my engine is 180DEG out and he or she is correct so I set my engine to TDC and remove the valve arm bolts to relieve the pressure on the valve springs. Then I turn the cams 180 and tighten. Then I manual turn the engine three full revolutions to make sure nothing hits.
But the car will not start, I read that you have to have some dots and divots lined up on the oil pump/distributor drive gear or this could through your timing of? But when I am TDC the rotor is facing NUM 4; which is were every manual I have read said it should be.
Help!!!
My 1989 240SX KA24e has no power till I get to 3500 or higher, I just rebuilt the engine. I took the engine completely apart and replaced the piston rings and head gasket and all related seals.
So some replies to this that my engine is 180DEG out and he or she is correct so I set my engine to TDC and remove the valve arm bolts to relieve the pressure on the valve springs. Then I turn the cams 180 and tighten. Then I manual turn the engine three full revolutions to make sure nothing hits.
But the car will not start, I read that you have to have some dots and divots lined up on the oil pump/distributor drive gear or this could through your timing of? But when I am TDC the rotor is facing NUM 4; which is were every manual I have read said it should be.
Help!!!