TURBO REPLACE/TEST
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Sim0nsays21
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 8:12 pm
- Car: 1992 300zx TwinTurbo, 1999 Range Rover. 1996 LandRover Discover
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Gino
- Posts: 242
- Joined: Mon Oct 18, 2004 3:12 pm
- Car: 1990 300zxTT stage 5+++
- Location: Hanover, PA
- Contact:
run codes. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.htmli link you there just so you get the basis of it. The easier way to check is by using the Consult connector (under your hood release) and connecting pins 9+10 with a piece of wire for 3 seconds (with the key in the on position)
Watch your check engine light blink and tell me what you got if any codes came up. To take it out of diagnosis mode, just connect the 2 pins with wire again for 3 seconds, and the check engine light should stop blinking.
Being a V configuration, you're only putting 1.5l through each turbo, ontop of that we have ~3 feet of intake piping...our turbos arent that loud especially from inside the car ESPECIALLY if youre on stock DPs and dont have that many mods...Also, i wouldnt trust your stock boost gauge, but it is possible that your turbos could be gone...The tell tale sign for blown turbos is usually smoke, and lots of it. That would be the blown turbo seals leaking oil into the exhaust hosuing and burning up. Another way would be to visually check (this one is a little more fr the mechanically gifted). Take off the DP's (DS is easy with transmission in, PS is a *****) and turn the exh. wheel by hand. It should spin fairly freely and there shouldnt be much (if any) shaft play (side-to-side and in-and-out). A boost leak is also possible, but usually with a boost leak theres more than one symptom (if its a decent size one). How does your car idle?
A boost leak test is where they just pressurize the system (valve stem with a pressure gauge on a block that goes in where your MAF goes into your intake tract). All they would do is pressurize the system and listen for any leaks, or they could smoke it if they have the equipment. Same basic principles but using "smoke" so they can visually see where the leak is coming from.
Sorry if the post doesnt make much sense lol its 6:38 am and i cant sleep anymore haha. If theres anything i didnt help with just say so and ill come back to it lol. edit: oh yea, as for replacing turbos, the EASIEST way is to just pull the motor. The next "Easiest" way is to drop the transmission, which if its your first time, would probably take just as long as to pull the motor, and would be more of a pain especially if you dont have access to a lift or anything. Ive done motor pulls with the car on jack stands. Did one clutch job like that and vowed never to do another one without a lift lol
Watch your check engine light blink and tell me what you got if any codes came up. To take it out of diagnosis mode, just connect the 2 pins with wire again for 3 seconds, and the check engine light should stop blinking.
Being a V configuration, you're only putting 1.5l through each turbo, ontop of that we have ~3 feet of intake piping...our turbos arent that loud especially from inside the car ESPECIALLY if youre on stock DPs and dont have that many mods...Also, i wouldnt trust your stock boost gauge, but it is possible that your turbos could be gone...The tell tale sign for blown turbos is usually smoke, and lots of it. That would be the blown turbo seals leaking oil into the exhaust hosuing and burning up. Another way would be to visually check (this one is a little more fr the mechanically gifted). Take off the DP's (DS is easy with transmission in, PS is a *****) and turn the exh. wheel by hand. It should spin fairly freely and there shouldnt be much (if any) shaft play (side-to-side and in-and-out). A boost leak is also possible, but usually with a boost leak theres more than one symptom (if its a decent size one). How does your car idle?
A boost leak test is where they just pressurize the system (valve stem with a pressure gauge on a block that goes in where your MAF goes into your intake tract). All they would do is pressurize the system and listen for any leaks, or they could smoke it if they have the equipment. Same basic principles but using "smoke" so they can visually see where the leak is coming from.
Sorry if the post doesnt make much sense lol its 6:38 am and i cant sleep anymore haha. If theres anything i didnt help with just say so and ill come back to it lol. edit: oh yea, as for replacing turbos, the EASIEST way is to just pull the motor. The next "Easiest" way is to drop the transmission, which if its your first time, would probably take just as long as to pull the motor, and would be more of a pain especially if you dont have access to a lift or anything. Ive done motor pulls with the car on jack stands. Did one clutch job like that and vowed never to do another one without a lift lol
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BRAD@ZSOLUTIONS
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:45 am
- Car: 1990 nissan 300 zx turbo / 1990 skyline gtst with rb25
Re: TURBO REPLACE/TEST (Sim0nsays21)
with the car running and someone holding the revs at about 1500 to keep it running, slide the boot that goes from the turbo to the intercooler up and off and rev up the motor to about 4 to 5 grand and see if you feel the compressed air coming from each side turbo..If ones weak or doing nothing, there you go if they both feel the same you got boost leak.. Also make sure you dont have a knock code that will also not help the situation