Turbo oil supply question..
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Quicsilvia
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:50 pm
- Car: s14
Turbo oil supply question..
Im throwing together some parts to boost my ka and i was thinking i could use a Sandwich plate for oil feed and return lines to save me work insted of welding a fitting on the oil pan..do you think this is a good idea?
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Florida240sx
- Posts: 11114
- Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
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Quicsilvia
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:50 pm
- Car: s14
Re: (Florida240sx)
alrighty..thanks guys
Re: (Florida240sx)
Dropping the pan's so freaken easy, you just cant listen to the damn FSM.
Take off all the bolts on the oil pan. Then get your car as low as you possibly can while still being able to get underneath it with a creeper. Take the wheels off and put it on jack stands if you have to. Take the motor mount nuts off. Jack up on the AC, or AC bracket until the motor comes up about 3-5 inches on the driver side. You might need to take off your valve cover to do this, im not really sure my heads were off when i did mine. At this point the only thing holding your oil pan up is the liquid gasket. Take a rubber hammer and beat a few times at a downward angle and bam its off. Do NOT take a screw driver and pry between the block and the oil pan, you will mess up the mating surfaces and possibly cause an oil leak. Next take a 12 mm socket and take off the two bolts that hold the oil pickup on. There is a gasket there, make sure you keep tabs on it cuz you need it when you finish.
Bam, done. Less than 30 min, no headaches.
When putting it back on i would recommend using Permatex Ultra Grey, you can get it at napa or wherever its good stuff. I torqed all the bolts down to 10 when i put it back on. Might be a little to much, im not sure, but you dont want to tighten them anymore than that. The liquid gasket needs a little room to form a good seal.
Hope this helps you out, it beats the crap out of taking off the front crossmember.
Take off all the bolts on the oil pan. Then get your car as low as you possibly can while still being able to get underneath it with a creeper. Take the wheels off and put it on jack stands if you have to. Take the motor mount nuts off. Jack up on the AC, or AC bracket until the motor comes up about 3-5 inches on the driver side. You might need to take off your valve cover to do this, im not really sure my heads were off when i did mine. At this point the only thing holding your oil pan up is the liquid gasket. Take a rubber hammer and beat a few times at a downward angle and bam its off. Do NOT take a screw driver and pry between the block and the oil pan, you will mess up the mating surfaces and possibly cause an oil leak. Next take a 12 mm socket and take off the two bolts that hold the oil pickup on. There is a gasket there, make sure you keep tabs on it cuz you need it when you finish.
Bam, done. Less than 30 min, no headaches.
When putting it back on i would recommend using Permatex Ultra Grey, you can get it at napa or wherever its good stuff. I torqed all the bolts down to 10 when i put it back on. Might be a little to much, im not sure, but you dont want to tighten them anymore than that. The liquid gasket needs a little room to form a good seal.
Hope this helps you out, it beats the crap out of taking off the front crossmember.