Turbo off of a sr20det

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I_eat_hondas
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I just bought a turbo from japan off an sr20det it comes with the turbo, exaust manifold, actuator, Am I going to need to modify anything else to get this to work correctly, I have a 91 ka24de?


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I am Technoman
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lol!

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I_eat_hondas
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lol thats a great answer, what a **** head. I only ask because I dont know. I have never put a turbo on a KA24de and need to know what needs to be upgraded. but theres really no need to be a d***

TrunkMonkey
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he's laughing because none of it will work on your KA. the manifold won't bolt up and the turbo is way too small for your engine.

-demetrius

JESTER
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Man, you didn't buy that off of E-Bay did you?:icon18

You can't use the manifold at all. The turbo is usable if you find a manifold for the KA that will fit that turbo. It is consider to be a little small for the KA but you never know.

We hope you didn't pay too much. And remeber, you can always sell it on E-Bay.

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I am Technoman
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I_eat_hondas wrote:lol thats a great answer, what a **** head. I only ask because I dont know. I have never put a turbo on a KA24de and need to know what needs to be upgraded. but theres really no need to be a d***
I eat Honda, try these turbos. They will work much better for your car. http://www.turbochargers.com

Daunttless
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Like Jester said, you will need a new manifold at the very least. Additionally, the T25 is too small for the KA24. The T25 is still considered too small for the CA18 and the SR20, and the KA displaces .6 and .4 liters more respectively. ; )

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matt0941
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I_eat_hondas wrote:I just bought a turbo from japan off an sr20det it comes with the turbo, exaust manifold, actuator, Am I going to need to modify anything else to get this to work correctly, I have a 91 ka24de?


Disregarding the size of the turbo as well as the mis-matched manifold, there is much more that you need to take into account when customizing a turbo kit: MAF/MAP, Intercooler, BOV, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injectors, Guages, Possibly Turbo-Timer, etc. Good luck

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C-Kwik
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You don't need an intercooler, but as you increase boost, you may start seeing detonation real early. 4-5 psi is probably as much as you can squeeze out before detonation starts to become a problem.

A BOV is not necessary, but it will help drivaility and extend the life of the turbo. It is highly recommended.

You don't necessarily need to upgrade the fuel pump. Depends on the fuel set-up and how much fuel you need. Larger or additional injectors are also only needed if you exceed your stock injector's capabilities. A way around it is to use a boost dependent fuel pressure regulator that increases fuel pressure with boost significantly. It has limitations though as a fuel pump can only put so much pressure out before it sacrifices flow.

Guages aren't necessary, but recommended. Boost gauge and an EGT are on the top of my list. You're car already has a water temp gauge and while not as accurate, it will serve it's purpose of telling you if the engine is getting to a critical temperature. Oil temp gauges will tell you liitle more than the water temp gauge. Oil pressure gauges are not very useful since by the time you realize something is wrong, chances are, teh damage has already been done...and in many cases, you will know it. An Air-fuel gauge could be useful, but I'd be more reliant on a wide-band one. But this would be under the boost and EGT for me.

A turbo timer is also not a necessity. It's rather convenient to be able to leave your car as it is still running than to have to wait before shutting down the motor. Typically, you only need to run the motor about 30 seconds after stopping to cool the turbo bearings sufficiently. Perhaps a bit longer if you were racing on a track.

Many things depend on how much boost you plan to run. You'll need the plumbing to route the air. Miscellaneous oil lines, vacuum lines and such. For the most part a turbo system is quite simple on paper. Actually putting it together can be a bear, especially when it comes to making all the piping.

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WDRacing
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A good way to tell what kinds of things your motor will require is by looking at another car that comes stock with a turbo. Lets take for instance the Skyline, since its my area of expertise.

The stock Skyline comes with a rising rate fuel prseeure regulator, like C-kwik was referring to. It comes with a BOV that is vented back to the intake so as not to make the ECU run really rich during gear changes and off throttle conditions. It comes with a boost gauge, which I consider essential since you can tell alot about your motor by watching it on boost and under vacuum.It also comes with a oil pressure gauge, another gauge I really like to have. Then there's the usual battery voltage and temp gauge. It also comes with a side mount intercooler. Not the most affective type but it works none the less. It think its important to have some type of heat sink prior to the intake. You can always get one from the junkyard off a transport type truck or any other turbo diesel.

The T25 is a bit on the small side, it will have to work harder to make as much power as say a T3 or GT30. But You'll make alot more power then NA in either case.

But like everyone else above said. You'll need a new ex manifold, downpipe and the rest of the exhaust plumbing. You'll also need some new oil and water lines for the turbo, not really difficult, and last but not least, you'll need some intake piping. I believe the stock wastegate on the 180 is set to around 8-10 psi. So you better make sure you have enough fuel for that amount of boost.

WD

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I_eat_hondas
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well thanks for the info, I only paid 75.00 for it and have a honda guy ready to buy it for 300:) guess I can put that towards a bigger turbo. What size injectors and fuel pump would you say I should run with a t3? and where is a good place to get a maniflod that will bolt up correctly? In hindsite I should have asked my question before purchasing the turbo...and now I know

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WDRacing
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Let me ask you a few questions first,

How much hp are you looking for?How mechanically inclined are you?What kind of budget are you dealing with?

That will help others better advise you.

WD

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I_eat_hondas
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well, Im not dealing with a large budget at all, but I am quite mechanically inclined. this is my first nissan and I am learning the engine now. (I am recovering from a honda) So im not to sure what they are capable of.

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WDRacing
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Congrats on the switch over. I have owned a couple of Honda's. I hated all of them.

Firstly, I think the best way to get a turbo and manifold is as a set. You should be able to find one used.

Other then that, lets say you want to run 12psi. I think a set of 440's will be just fine. You'll also need some kind of fuel managemet to do it the right way. A simple piggyback setup will work for your application.

Then you'll need everything I listed in the above post.

WD

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I_eat_hondas
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So whats with this alcohol injection system you want everyone to own, where can I get one how much are they and how hard isthe install

Daunttless
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Alcohol Injection is just that, alcohol is injected with your air/fuel stream to raise the detonation point, that way you can run more boost and more heat without prematurely combusting your fuel. WD strongly supports Alcohol because its a means of more reliably extracting horsepower from a vehicle with a higher compression ratio, for example the KA. Price varies by quite a lot if I remember correctly, but I haven't looked at any kits for a while, its no more difficult than installing a nitrous kit, I can't really think of anything else to compare it to..?

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matt0941
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matt0941 in a different thread... wrote:http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html

$350, and it doesn't look that complicated at all

-That is the kit that WD used

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WDRacing
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Yep, what they said...

Took me 2 hours to install and roughly one day to fully tune. try reading my Thread on Alcohol Injection. It has some good info .

WD

Illest240
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http://www.executivecleancar.com/KAManifold/I

Hey theres a guy who makes custom Manifolds for the KA24DE.....

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I_eat_hondas
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that link is broken.....

TrunkMonkey
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try nissan unlimited.

-demetrius


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