Turbo noob questions! Get your flamethrowers out!!

[reu]

so here i am attempting to build a kade-t. waiting for some of my parts to arrive. i have already sourced a manifold,stock SR20 s13 turbo (what is that a t25?), 1st gen dsm intercooler,1st gen dsm bov, dumptube,downpipe,inlet/outlet turbo adaptor flanges,k&n air filter.i still need piping for the i/c,oil lines,electronic boost controller(bad times with the mbc's ).i was thinking about a performance import trends ebc cause theyre only 275.00 and that will be the most expensive piece im willing to dish out for. i can find a motor for about that much!my goal is 5-6lbs max so all i wanna run for fuel is a fmu , but what ratio(12:1 or what?).not cool with the injectors and safc thats way too far out of my price range anyway. besides i already had to replace the pump,injectors and filter filter last year.but hey this is still safer than nitrous! oh by the way its an 89 and the block has 150k on it.my question is has anyone ran a setup like this or this type of boost controller?thanks from your pal the vulture.

[crzycav86]

if all you want is 5-6 psi, then you dont need a boost controller. the sr turbo's wastegate is set at 7 psi.... which will be 5-6 psi after pressure loss.

[reu]

cool so it will operate at the stock setting right on! then all i need is a gauge to monitor it.for fuel would a 10:1 fmu suffice or does it have to be a 12:1 or is that too much pressure?oh this might help i live in colorado near denver so elevation is almost a mile high up here will this affect my setup?

[emperor_lunchbox]

The rule of thumb for the FMU is for every 1 PSI the FMU will raise the fuel pressure by whatever your FMU is. So if you are running 7 PSI (stock SR actuator) with a 12:1 FMU your fuel pressure will be 84 PSI. Thats too much, most people are using the 7:1 disk which will give you 49 PSI. Thats around where you want to be.

So if you have the option to go with the 7:1. If you get a vortech unit you can get the recalibration disk for $35. You could probably get the 6:1 FMU from then and be good. 42 PSI should be cool if you using a walbro.

[reu]

so if my fmu is 6:1 i have to upgrade my fuel pump,if my fmu is 7:1 i can use my factory pump,but an 8:1 fmu is too much fuel.okay thanks for all the help my goal is only a whopping 200 crank horse on a shoestring budget of 1,000 and i'm at 700. hope i can do it!

[9sec240]

The rule of thumb for the FMU is for every 1 PSI the FMU will raise the fuel pressure by whatever your FMU is. So if you are running 7 PSI (stock SR actuator) with a 12:1 FMU your fuel pressure will be 84 PSI. Thats too much, most people are using the 7:1 disk which will give you 49 PSI. Thats around where you want to be.

So if you have the option to go with the 7:1. If you get a vortech unit you can get the recalibration disk for $35. You could probably get the 6:1 FMU from then and be good. 42 PSI should be cool if you using a walbro.

An FMU raises the fuel pressure over BASE pressure... So the 12:1 FMU will ADD 84 psi to the base fuel pressure... If your fuel pump could keep up, that would be about 130 psi fuel pressure... This would never happen because this is way outside the operating range for a Walboro 255L pump...

6:1 disk will add 42 psi... so you should have almost 90 psi... Again, the Walboro will barely be able to keep up....

[reu]

would it be better to get the rising rate fuel pressure reulator with the built in gauge and set it to what the needed pressure is for 7psi, whatever that is? just don' t wanna buy another pump then worry about getting it the proper voltage, etc, etc,. i like to remain as factory as possible, it keeps things simple. what is the max factory pump output , or a wahlboro 190 or 255?

[Florida240sx]

Wait a couple mor eweeks and dish out the extra cash to do things right. I'm on my second engine because I rushed....Don't get yourself in the same situation.

[reu]

what is right but also cheapest and most minimalist?if it involves an safc or injectors i'm not interested. sorry but i only wanna do the least possible amount of mods. how much boost did it take for u to kill your motor or what failed? i read in scc that a rising rate fuel regulator would be sufficent for up to 7lbs max with the rest of the fuel system stock, remember i'm only using a t-25.


Modified by reu at 8:35 PM 3/25/2006

[emperor_lunchbox]

my bad, I forgot it was added to the base pressure.

[Florida240sx]

If you don't want to pay then your not going to be able to play.Yes you can keep stock injectors. Yes you can not buy a safx.But somewhere along th eline you will need to get a tune otherwise you wasted all your money completely. So being you have no ocntrol it's a $500 ecu tune instead of just dyno tune for an hr and only $120 to acheive what you need.Please do a search next time. People have killed stock motors with minimal mods. People have run 300rwhp with not a single problem. I killed my first motor because I messed up on the injectors. My fault. If you cheap out on parts your chances of going BOOM are greater.

[reu]

i have searched extensively and no one will agree on the just the fmu or just a rising rate fuel reg.remember engines only go for 200 around here and theyre not hard to come by. my car is already on its second motor the first was a single cam. i'll prolly just do a cartech risng rate reg and a wahlbro 255 nothing more.its only stock boost on a t25 it,s not like i'm running 7lbs on a .57or .60 trim.thanks for the help this setup wiil cost about 200 bucks.

[Florida240sx]

Why won't anyone agree????Becaus eit isn't the safest way to go."Engines go for 200 bucks around here" Good for oyu, you replace your engine and still have a crappy fuel setup, Could of spent that $200 on a better system to begin with. 7lbs froma t25 is worse than a t3/t4. More heat is created. Go ahead and cheap your way out. When you complain later about runnign to rich or car is too lean, remember I'm warning. Hey you might be the lucky one and eveyrthign works perfect for you, if so good job.

[reu]

you act like no ones built this setup before.sorry i believe stock is better than aftermarket 90% of the time and as long as you don't go outside of certain peramaters youll be okay.besides i don't think a company would publish misinformation that would later have people attack them for obvious legal reasons.does anyone know the stock ka24de max fuel pump pressure,or the max sr20det fuel pump output and how it compares to a 190 wahlbro and a 255 wahlbro? sorry i'm rediculously spec driven!
Modified by reu at 3:57 PM 3/26/2006

[C-Kwik]

Why won't anyone agree????Becaus eit isn't the safest way to go."Engines go for 200 bucks around here" Good for oyu, you replace your engine and still have a crappy fuel setup, Could of spent that $200 on a better system to begin with. 7lbs froma t25 is worse than a t3/t4. More heat is created. Go ahead and cheap your way out. When you complain later about runnign to rich or car is too lean, remember I'm warning. Hey you might be the lucky one and eveyrthign works perfect for you, if so good job.

An FMU by design isn't any less safe. The major concern would be the fuel pump. If the fuel pump stops working to it's full potential then it could spell disaster. But even at max capacity, a fuel pump isn't going to fail right away. And it will not be running at max capacity 100% of the time. Especially in a street car. I ran a FMU for about a year and it worked flawlessly on the stock fuel pump. It's not as much of a problem with reliability as it is with trying to extract maximum power. FMU's tend to run rich and may not make the best power, but is certainly capable. It is also easiest to make compatible with any electronic fuel system with a return line. And if you were to look up all the CARB legal kits out there, the FMU is the most common form of fuel enrichment used.

[Danzors]

Hmm this is straying from the convo a bit, but lets say I turbo'ed my ka24e; how much of those parts could I use on a ka24de if I swapped the engine?

Oops, my noob is showing

[reu]

i believe everything except the manifold