turbo inlet gasket

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edlugz
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:07 pm
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx se redtop sr20det

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I need some help. Ive had to replace my inlet gasket three times now and i just did it the third time on Saturday but I'm already having issues with it. the nuts on the flange have come loose...i used loctite and locking washers and the fix didn't even last a day. I am looking for some advise on what i should do to keep these nuts from coming loose. i have pretty much no money left so a cheap fix would be best.. i have a red top with a stock exhaust...any help would be appreciated


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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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The stock install includes two metal straps with ears on them. They go on top of the turbo flange but under the nuts and after you tighten the nuts you bend the flanges up so they are flush against the flats of the nuts. I hope that puts the image in your mind effectively. No more problems. You should check the parts book for the 300ZX. If you are using a T3 flange, check the Z31, for a T25 flange, check the Z32.

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edlugz
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:07 pm
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx se redtop sr20det

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yea the first two times i replaced the gasket i used those tabs...still had the issue. this last time there was only one of the tabs left and it was broken so i didnt use it. where can i fins some replacement tabs...or maybe make some custom ones...?? any thoughts??

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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I have never seen this happen. get some new nuts and VERY carefully squeeze them in a vise so they are slightly out of round. The pressure to hold them concentric when you put them on the studs should help.

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RideNslidE
Posts: 230
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:38 pm
Car: 1993 240 hatch the track and a 1993 240 vert DD
Location: san diego

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you could drill a small hole through the bolt and nut and use safety wire similar to what they use on aircraft, something like this. its not easy but it might help GL.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/foru....html

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snake240
Posts: 344
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:16 pm
Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

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with loctite and the right torque they shouldnt back off. i would get the tabs, use loctite and make sure you torque to the right specs.

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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RideNslidE wrote:you could drill a small hole through the bolt and nut and use safety wire similar to what they use on aircraft, something like this. its not easy but it might help GL.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/foru....html
this is perfect for turbos..and i have seen it used many times..the tool is expencive but there is a simmilar way to do this old school style.....

( castle nuts and cotter pins)..think of it as a ball joint ...they have this same set up..copy and past and the issue will go away bro..good luck.

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edlugz
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:07 pm
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx se redtop sr20det

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yea ive orderd new tabs and im gonna try to use the cotter pin set up but where do i find some that will withstand the heat

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edlugz
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:07 pm
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx se redtop sr20det

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i used the red high strength loctite but it didnt help i tried to find a high temp treadlocker but couldnt find one in town


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