Turbo clocking madness.

[Boostedlogic]

I'm sure this has been answered a billion times, but after continued searching, I keep finding different answers. Just looking for a solid answer from someone who knows what there talking about. My stock t25 on my CA took a poop, so I have an s14 SR ball bearing t28 on its way. Now I know the turbo has to be clocked, but I've read that swapping SR turbo's is a bolt on affair. I've also read that I need custom lines made... I don't have another car so I need to know exactly what I'll need to swap this turbo in without down time. I hate doing things on a limb, and finding surprises like an oil line not working, or an intake pipe not working. I've read so many different things and I don't know whats credible and whats not. Basically, this is what I need to know;

When swapping an SR turbo on a CA:
-Can the stock oil and coolant lines be used?
-Can the stock elbow and downpipe be used?
-Can the stock hotpipe be used?
-Can the stock inlet pipe be used?

Also, How exactly do you clock the turbo?

[mr_ca18det]

When I put my s15 turbo on I had to clock the turbo meaning turn the compressor housing to where it fits under the stock manifold .I used a stock Sr turbo inlet flange stock downpipe and maf hose and I used the stock lines the intercooler pipe will.have to be adjusted a little I used the Sr 3 bolt flange and the intercooler was close to connecting back up without any modification. Hope that helps

[cbh148]

I'm sure this has been answered a billion times, but after continued searching, I keep finding different answers. Just looking for a solid answer from someone who knows what there talking about. My stock t25 on my CA took a poop, so I have an s14 SR ball bearing t28 on its way. Now I know the turbo has to be clocked, but I've read that swapping SR turbo's is a bolt on affair. I've also read that I need custom lines made... I don't have another car so I need to know exactly what I'll need to swap this turbo in without down time. I hate doing things on a limb, and finding surprises like an oil line not working, or an intake pipe not working. I've read so many different things and I don't know whats credible and whats not. Basically, this is what I need to know;

When swapping an SR turbo on a CA:
-Can the stock oil and coolant lines be used?
-Can the stock elbow and downpipe be used?
-Can the stock hotpipe be used?
-Can the stock inlet pipe be used?

Also, How exactly do you clock the turbo?

Wish I could help, but I'm in the same boat as you -- I already have my BB t28 turbo from an s15 and I'm building my CA.

- I had steel braided lines made for my t28's coolant and oil purposes. I think this is necessary because the stock ones won't work right. They're the wrong fittings/length or something, and I think it has something to do with fitting to the oil restrictor that one has to run for this turbo. s13drifter88 (aka Kyle) is a human encyclopedia for details like this. I'll send him here.
- I was told the stock elbow and downpipe will work. I'll be running a stock elbow and ISIS downpipe (ca18 specific).
- I'm really hoping I don't have to chop up my brand new FMIC piping.
- I haven't even thought about inlet piping yet so hopefully I can get something together with my BEST FRIEND KYLE!

[float_6969]

You need the compressor inlet and outlet fittings. The stock CA18 turbo doesn't require the inlet the T28's do. The outlet is clocked differently, so you need that as well.

The compressor housing needs clocked to clear the manifold.

The center section needs clocked so that when it's mounted to the manifold and bolted in the car, the inlet and outlet sit perpendicular to the ground. If this is done, the stock lines CAN be used, but they require a little bending and it's a pain. SS flexible lines are highly recommended.

You need an oil restrictor. The stock CA18 restrictor built into the the block fitting is too big for the BB turbo.

The O2 pipe is supposedly the same, but I didn't use it, so I can't say for sure.

[Boostedlogic]

Would I still need an oil restrictor if I went with an SR t25?

[NUTCSE]

Would I still need an oil restrictor if I went with an SR t25?

No, restrictors only alpply to ball bearing turbos.

[Anu]

I thought only the S15 T28's where BB, and the S14's t28 where journal bearing? (if thats the correct word :P)

[Boostedlogic]

I thought only the S15 T28's where BB, and the S14's t28 where journal bearing? (if thats the correct word :P)

Some are BB and some are not. The ones that are BB are identical to the s15 t28's to the best of my knowledge. I decided to go with a t25G instead of the t28 for the sake of simplicity and so I can keep my stock fuel management for the time being.

[s13drifter88]

ok a little clarity here. the s14 t28 is jb, the s15 spec r is bb (maybe all of the s15's are). the turbo will need to be clocked 10-15* clockwise. the stock lines will work with some bending, frustration and cussing. you will need an oil restrictor. youll need a .032" to be exact, .064" for jb. bb turbos dont like to be drowned, they only like to be pissed on lol. the ca fuel system is enough for the s15 t28 on wastegate pressure (10psi). the s14 im pretty sure is only 7psi iirc. id go t28 if you already have it, the added jump in power will be enjoyable. now for clocking. DIF and Stance both offer clocking solutions if you already have your i/c pipes plumbed or dont have modified/custom inlets and outlets for the turbo. the stock suction tube alsom works. another option is the greddy suction kit for SR's. it works great. check my build thread and youll see. now for the oil drain, you have 2 options. the bolt pattern for t28's (atleast s15's i know for sure) have a narrower bolt pattern for the mating flange. do 1 of 2 things... take a dremel and slot your stock oil drain bolt holes inwards about 1/4 inch or buy an s15 oil drain from frsport.com

hope this helps

[Boostedlogic]

ok a little clarity here. the s14 t28 is jb, the s15 spec r is bb (maybe all of the s15's are). the turbo will need to be clocked 10-15* clockwise. the stock lines will work with some bending, frustration and cussing. you will need an oil restrictor. youll need a .032" to be exact, .064" for jb. bb turbos dont like to be drowned, they only like to be pissed on lol. the ca fuel system is enough for the s15 t28 on wastegate pressure (10psi). the s14 im pretty sure is only 7psi iirc. id go t28 if you already have it, the added jump in power will be enjoyable. now for clocking. DIF and Stance both offer clocking solutions if you already have your i/c pipes plumbed or dont have modified/custom inlets and outlets for the turbo. the stock suction tube alsom works. another option is the greddy suction kit for SR's. it works great. check my build thread and youll see. now for the oil drain, you have 2 options. the bolt pattern for t28's (atleast s15's i know for sure) have a narrower bolt pattern for the mating flange. do 1 of 2 things... take a dremel and slot your stock oil drain bolt holes inwards about 1/4 inch or buy an s15 oil drain from frsport.com

hope this helps

Thanks for the reply. I did a little more research and apparently the kouki s14's came with BB turbo's. The zenki's were JB. There was complications with the t28 I was supposed to get and I have a t25g in my possession, So i'm just going to throw it in and see how I like it. Anywho, after I clock the compressor housing, how am I supposed to bolt up my wastegate?

[s13drifter88]

you only need to clock the comp housing about 5* clockwise. this isnt enough to impair the wastegates functionality so repositioning it isnt necessary. rotate/install/enjoy