turbo choice.

[neverlift]

that build list should include a wideband and an aftermarket radiator. Not being able to hot lap with your buddy at the local slide spot cause your close to overheating due to stock cooling system, really sux.

IIRC a local guy hit 250ish with 8psi on an fmu. I was running 9 for the last couple weeks, but turned it down to 6. Jut trying to burn less fuel... I was able to go out the other night on 10 bux. LIke 35~40 miles to and from my buddies house, plus miles to the spot, plus 45minute to an hour of sliding. And still had fuel to do a couple nasty burnouts and run a few honey do's more cam info now! I have a bunch of cams laying around.

[WDRacing]

Just want to clarify.

FMU stands for fuel management unit, which is just a fancy term for rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR). The factory fuel pressure reg can't be adjusted but it still has a boost reference nipple that allows the increase of fuel pressure on a 1:1 basis. Most aftermarket regulators can adjust your base fuel pressure and have a boost reference nipple that allow them to increase fuel pressure on a 1:1 basis. The only difference being the ability to increase or decrease your base fuel pressure. Which btw is a often overlooked tuning area.

The FMU can't adjust your base fuel pressure, in fact it has to be used inline with either your stock FPR or an aftermarket one. The FMU can't control the flow by itself, it simply sits behind the stock FPR and allows fuel to flow through it until it sees boost via the vacuum nipple. At which time it raises the fuel pressure on a level depending on the disk that's inside the FMU itself. The usual FMU selection is 8:1. That means for every 1 psi of boost it sees it increases the fuel pressure 8 psi. This supplies the additional fuel via the stock injectors. Works very well and requires no real tuning. I'd suggest the 6:1 disk, because I think the 8:1 might be a tad rich.

Don't forget to retard the base timing a couple of degree's for safety.

WD

[ka-t4u]

thank you guys for the extra input!!

so wd, does that mean i don't really need an after market FPR? but it will obviously be recommended so that i can adjust the base fuel pressure, is it necessary to re-set the base fuel pressure higher? would that help? so if i get any adjustable fuel pressure regulator it will adjust the fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio as it sees boost? so should i get one or not??

thanks for the suggestion on the cooling system neverlift but i don't think i will be drifting anytime soon, as i don't have an lsd, or extra money for tires, but i'll try to get in anyways so that i can be extra safe, also thanks for the advice on the wideband, i was thinking about that too!! i have a friend who knows someone with a dyno so i'll try to see if i can get hooked up and check my afr's there when i get this whole thing done.

so all in all adjustable FPR, necessary? or not? obviously recommended!

and thanks for the explanation on the fmu WD!!

thanks to all again!! edit: also guys i forgot to mention i have a msd 6al system, with a blaster 2 coil, should i throw it in the mix? or forget about it/try to sell it??

Modified by ka-t4u at 10:03 AM 10/21/2009
Modified by ka-t4u at 10:04 AM 10/21/2009

[WDRacing]

In short, here's what I would do.

Fuel:Keep the stock FPR. Get the 6:1 FMU, not a Chinese knock off, get a Vortech. I only say that because it's critical that this item function properly. Get a 255LPH pump if you don't already have one. Get a fuel pressure gauge, preferably one with a remote in cabin gauge, so you can monitor fuel pressure. As you increase pump pressure, the volume will decrease and eventually peter out. You don't wanna be at full boost when your pump decides it can't put out that much volume. This is to establish your max boost while using the FMU and to monitor changes as the pump gets more mileage etc. If you're not going to run more then 10 psi, the gauge isn't a must have item. But I suggest one anyway. Budget is a b**** I know...

Timing:If your going to run 8psi or under retard the base timing 2 degree's, which is basically a bump under the stock setting of 20*. If you're going to try and run a little more boost I'd get the MSD BTM or MSD6 BTM, the 6 version is just an amp as well as the BTM. Sell your current MSD.

WD

[ka-t4u]

alright sounds like a plan!!! awesome!!! so this is what i am gong to be doing:

-255lph walbro-6:1 FMU-Cat turbo-8 psi of boost-2 degrees off the base timing.

and i'll be the happiest poor kid you guys have ever met!!!!

also thanks for clarifying that it was 2 degrees off the stock base timing, which is 20btdc, because right now i have it set to 15btdc so if i would have retarded it from where i have it now i would , that was another question that i had, thanks for answering before i even asked!!!

[WDRacing]

My general rule of thumb is .5 degree's of boost for every 1 psi over 4 psi. Even though 8 psi has been done without any timing retard, all it takes is one bad tank of fuel or a really hot day to pop a motor. So 2 degree's is a good safety net without ruining your off boost driving. Any more and you'll get awful mileage and have no power off boost.

WD

[ka-t4u]

alright then 2 degrees it is!!! i need to be safe since it is a DD!!

again thanks for all the info!!! to everyone!!

[neverlift]

6ish psi daily, I took 4ish off, florida gets bad gas, however most around here is about 25% ethanol screwing us for years... current chell had 8= y/o gas that was still good

no I am the happiest poor guy around

[spank044]

Sorry I wasn't clear enough on the FMU because I thought you understood how those worked as well. The reason I recommend the aftermarket quality FPR with a gauge is so you can have the most accurate fuel pressure for a starting point. You should have bought the 6A MSD and saved some money since you factory ecu is already controlling the rev limit, but since you have the MSD stuff you might as well keep it and widen your plug gap. With 8psi you should beable to open your gap to .044.

[neverlift]

he should be able to do that on a blaster coil and relay mod. I did wiht stock heat range plugs, but it was on a t25.

[ka-t4u]

well see i didn't buy it, i was helping my friend work on his car(i did most of the work) and after we where done he said: would you like an msd set up?? and i thought, after all this work, i deserve some sort of payment, so i took it!!! it is all brand new, he never got a chance to use it!!

now back into subject, so you guys are suggesting i use it?? would you mind enlighten me on how it would help?? am thinking: it will help burn the whole mixture, and maybe help with the off-boost power due to the retarded base timing. is that correct?? is there more?? also i know that for turbo applications you want colder plugs with a smaller gap, but if i use the msd i can just use the stockers?? am gonna do a search on that relay mod never heard of it before.

again thanks to all of you guys!!!! i can't stop thanking you, without your help my head would be just a big mixed up cluster of ideas!!lol

thanks one more time!!!!

edit: i searched for the relay mod, coul not find anything, so any help on that will be appreciated!! thanks!!
Modified by ka-t4u at 10:33 PM 10/21/2009

[neverlift]

zerothread?id=127078

I had no luck with the msd box I had, but it could have been bad.

The relay mod is the s*** if you are cheap like me.Wifes truck idles at 550rpm smooth as hell with the relay trick done.

I was running stock plugs/gap my first setup cause I had no clue. HAd no spark blow out to 12psi off a t25. My t3 never got that chance I put colder plugs in.

[WDRacing]

I would do the relay mod and sell the MSD6AL.

[spank044]

now back into subject, so you guys are suggesting i use it?? would you mind enlighten me on how it would help??

How an MSD works is right in its name "Multiple Spark Discharge,: instead of getting one spark each power stroke you get 3 sparks right in a row for a more complete burn. The MSD box also amplifies the output voltage to the coil which bumps the spark in power. This allows you to run a wider plug gap which also helps burn more fuel efficiently. So the MSD box allows a larger gap plug and has multiple sparks per cycle. Since you are going to run low boost then you can get away with the relay mod and make some extra money off the MSD. Plugs are not only determined by boost, but more by what driving conditions you are you to experience everyday since it is your daily driver.

This will better explain heat ratings than I ever could.http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/t...e=nml

Ignition relay mod: zerothread?id=127078

[ka-t4u]

ok thanks guys!!! so the relay mod it is!!!, now should i use the stock coil? or shoud i use the "blaster 2" coil that i got with the msd? would the "blaster 2" coil be better?

thanks again for all the input!!! msd 6al going into local craigslist today!!!

[WDRacing]

Might as well use the Blaster.

[neverlift]

blaster should put out a little better spark, the stock coil is pretty good actually, but the msd is better.

[ka-t4u]

awesome!! am doing this today!!!! so i can feel the difference before i boost, because when i turbo it am going to be so overwhelmed by the boost that i wont even notice it!!!

thanks again guys!! you guys are awesome!!!