turbo 240 rods arrived today!

[wild_maxx]

hey thanx Ivan and Chris for the great price and product. I do have a couple question for either of you.

1) I want to make it clear on the installation instructions, They do not reccomend the use of plastigauge to check bearing clearance. They say to measure out crankshaft with a micrometer ..... how did you guys install these into your motors?

2) What brand ARP studs are these? I read that they are the arp 2000 but what size? It shows the recommended stretch and then the torque & angle for different ARP bolts.

On with the pics!

[9sec240]

Because the rods were designed buy the guys that designed rods for Carrillo and then started their own company, the instructions for assembly are way over kill...

We still recomend plastigauge for those that dont have a bore gauge and micrometer set and we recomend torquing the bolts to 45 lbs with the supplied moly lube...

[wild_maxx]

ok.... and what about the angle torque? just torque them to 45 lbs and forget about the angle torque step? What ARP studs are these? (thread size and pitch)

[projectka-t]

Now those are good looking rods! I will have to look into those befor I purchase my set!

[wild_maxx]

Any info on my question above?

Also, i noticed the K1 rods do not have rod bearing oiling holes in them where the stock rods do have them. Will this cause any issues? The wrist pin side of the rods have 2 oiling holes where as the stock only has one... just wondering why?

[KATwo40]

The oil supply comes from within the crank, so it really shouldn't matter.

[wild_maxx]

so it comes within the crank and is supplied throgh the bearings? I see the oiling holes in the rod journals but why were the oiling holes in the stock rods?

[TrunkMonkey]

so it comes within the crank and is supplied throgh the bearings? I see the oiling holes in the rod journals but why were the oiling holes in the stock rods?

the dohc uses the same connecting rods that were used in the sohc

the oil holes on the connecting rods served the same purpose for the sohc as the oil squirters do on the dohc block. they lubricate (cool) the piston skirts.

having both oil squirters on the block and oiling holes on the connecting rods is overkill.

-demetrius

[9sec240]

ok.... and what about the angle torque? just torque them to 45 lbs and forget about the angle torque step? What ARP studs are these? (thread size and pitch)

No torque angle or rod stretch needed... just torque to 45 with the supplied lube...

[9sec240]

Thanks for the answer demetrius

Your info is accurate..

[wild_maxx]

my SOHC does not have oil squirters... so the stock rods did the squirting for the skirts. Should this affect anything?

[9sec240]

Well.. your pistons might run a bit hotter than with oil being squirted on them... I dont know of any aftermarket rods that have squirters built in them...

[wild_maxx]

well i guess i will be building an oil cooler to help lower oil temps... that should help some i guess.

[veilside180sx]

You can take your block into a respectable machine shop and they can tap the oil galleys for piston squirters Shawn. It's generally not all that expensive. Find someone with a trashed DE that has them in tact and your set.

[wild_maxx]

thats not a bad idea. If i can run these rods without any oiling problems i will just keep the E block.

[virus77]

is it too late to switch to a newer KA motor?

[wild_maxx]

well not too late.. i would just have to get it bored .020" over and have the deck, line bore all checked over. i would rather just add oil squirters to the E block.