Tuning the KA24DE & E

[Apollo8642]

Now what about fine tuning the KA's engine and trani wise?

I'm not talking about the usually bolt on crap, I'm talking about mapping, blue printing, porting, and polishing, the engine and see how much stable horse power can be massaged out of KA24DE and the KA24E.

[:: orion ::]

KA24DE, DOHC - Without boost:

Custom 3" intake, HS header, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, pulley (or set), cams (Nissan Motorsport or JWT), JWT ECU upgrade, flywheel, e-fan, and high compression will get you in the 170-180rwhp ballpark...probably no higher.

Big port-n-polish isn't that good, b/c to take advantage, you need high revs...and with the KA you're limited to 7000 or less basically...spending a lot of time above 7000 with a KA will rip it apart at some point.

Highest I've seen is 171 from 'Rownan', with all that listed above (or some variation of it).

Most bolt-on KAs have some mix of the mods listed above (ni high compression), and reside in the 145-155rwhp range...

Boost:

Expect anywhere from 10-13rwhp per PSI, depending on turbo size. My T3/T04E gives about12.5rwhp per PSI...straight T3s will give less, etc...

Stock internals = 320rwhp daily (12psi or so), but one guy put down 357rwhp on the dyno (15psi), stock block DOHC.

So there's some #s for you...

Later - Brian

[Aries]

well, a blueprint job on a KA with polishing done, and a 5 angle valve job on the head and a milling of 7/1000 brings up a very nice power increase.Add to that an intake manifold uf tubular design with straight 6" runners, that has been polished inside to remove obstructions to flow, and you have a geed all motor combination.

Then throw in your choice of exhausts, no bigger than 2.75" on an N/A car, and an intake (short-ram or full cold air) and you've got a motor that's making about 180 to the ground.

Power pullies as a set, and some high compression pistons will easily push you past the 200rwhp mark.

Now as for tuning these mods, you must remember that there are limitations to the stock computer. An S-AFC II is a great solution to the stock ECU woes. Idealy, you want to maintain a stoich level when tuning to keep continuous fuel being properly distributed while moving through the RPM bands. On a KA motor, this level is anywhere between 14.9 and 13.8. A regular Air-Fuel-Ratio gauge will not give you a reading accurate enough to go by. Typically the S-AFC is about .2 off of an actual reading when it is wired in correctly. I do all of my tuning (customer's cars included) on a DynoJet with Wide Band O2 capability. This allows everyone to see the rich and lean points in the RPM band, and allows us to tune for WOT and for normal driving conditions.

[Thee 240sx Owner]

that was very informative.. thanks cuz i need that.. i'm bout to rebuild my ka e and was going over various options in my notebook the other day..... thanxs again