Post by
craz4240 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/craz4240-u47081.html
Sat Oct 27, 2007 8:20 am
Wow trials and tribulations...what a pain I have had with this car.Tune after tune thanks Carl!!boost run one after another,set of plugs after plugs.....all to no avail.
Made no sense theoretical AFR's were set perfect.....k constant was set right and lag time was as it should be, but idled 22.4:1 AFR SUPER LEAN!! And was going somewhat rich under load as well.Haven't driven the car since July and it's almost time for her to go to rest for the year.
After tune after tune I came to the conclusion that my issue may be resorted to mechanical....and god knows my wiring was perfect...:P.Previously I had used brake clean to search for vacum leaks with no luck hoping it was something that simple.Those who don't know how to do this well you simply let the car idle while doing so spray areas that may leak air creating a loss in vacum ie:around intake runners,intake plenum,iac valve,throttle body and all vacum lines: when you find a leak the idle will rise momentarily it's that simple.I sprayed everything and had no change in idle at all so oh well no vacum leak.
I got thinking "Ok I cleaned my IAC valve out (absolutley a good idea even if you don't have an issue) cleaned the throttle body,check CAS position,sprayed everything,maybe the MAF is dirty or I have a stuck injector". I took the MAFS to work and cleaned it with a good air intake cleaner DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!! carb cleaner will leave a residue on the sensor wire making it malfunction and spray gently. Also whilst doing this I had great advice from Carl H on setting the idle switch also the tps (they are all in the same unit),basically pull the plug off the TPS body,on the body will be the terminals in which the plug,plugs onto set your multimeter to OHMS put one lead on each of the terminals which the wires of the plug go to you should have continuity with the throttle plate closed if not loosen the screws on the tps and adjust it till you do,now with the leads still on, open the throttle plate....you should have no reading at all in a manual car.So I reinstall the mafs,had the idle switch set and was hoping the car would run good....now if it didn't plan B was to tap on the injectors to see if I could loosen a stuck one.....this stuff helped some issues however did not solve my lean running issue...DAMN.So I conversed with a few ppl and while doin this we came to the conclusion that yes I indeed have a vacum leak somewheres(basically Carl just plain out told me heheh)....BUT where?? I already did what I thought was a thorough test for vacum and came up short.
Got the idea that it couldn't hurt taking the car to work and running a smoke test on the vacum and intake system.....I must say this unit could have saved me soo much time in the beginning I found a suitable sized vacum line for the smoke fitting and stuck it in,turned it on and commenced test.Turns out the brake clean test alone wasn't sufficient enough I had 2 small leaks comming from the T between my AAC valve and IAC valve and a very large leak coming from the inlet area of the AAC valve...trick on this was that the leak is on the bottom hence not getting hit with brake clean spray.So I fixed the leaks on the T cause they were easy to get at,however I have to wait till tomorrow to fix the main leak as I have to remove the upper plenum once again.
I was curious though if this was indeed my issue so I started the car up and let it idle,sprayed a good amount of brake clean where the leak was found and the idle went up.Well I was satisfied but i wanted to see what affect this had on my AFRS down low.Had someone watch the wideband while I sprayed the leak....AFR's went to perfect 13.5:1 just what the ecu is set for.So looks like we have found the problem.
Tomorrow I will fix this and update...as well we are getting down to the dyno before the car goes away for the winter now....after all this hell i need some numbers.