TT SWAP

[jdmbwoy24]

during summer 2013 i plan on doing a tt swap on my na but i was wondering could slapping a turbo single or twin on my na work? i dont plan on doing any more pounds than 20 im just worried on swapping my motor when i know its good for another one that could knock when i start it...i also want to know how much money it would cost to do a swap?

[Ace2cool]

Dude, do some research. An N/A has a 10.5:1 compression ratio. That's very high. It won't hold more than 4 or 5 pounds before the bottom end gives out.

Hell, the TT stock only boosts 9.5 lbs. For the cost of rebuilding the N/A into a solid booster RELIABLY, you'll end up spending as much as a swap. Honestly, just selling the N/A and buying a TT is the easiest and cheapest way.

[itsa300zx]

IMHO, if you have to ask this below,

during summer 2013 i plan on doing a tt swap on my na but i was wondering could slapping a turbo single or twin on my na work? i dont plan on doing any more pounds than 20 im just worried on swapping my motor when i know its good for another one that could knock when i start it...i also want to know how much money it would cost to do a swap?

Then you should really do this,

Dude, do some research. An N/A has a 10.5:1 compression ratio. That's very high. It won't hold more than 4 or 5 pounds before the bottom end gives out.

Hell, the TT stock only boosts 9.5 lbs. For the cost of rebuilding the N/A into a solid booster RELIABLY, you'll end up spending as much as a swap. Honestly, just selling the N/A and buying a TT is the easiest and cheapest way.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Swaps cost money, usually $3000+ depending on how much you do yourself. Someone on NICO (I forgot who) ran stock TT turbos on his NA for ~70k miles at low boost, like 6 psi. He turned it up to 12 psi and blew it up within minutes. It's possible to run low boost on an NA but not really worth it. The whole bottom end is basically identical minus the lower compression TT pistons. Here's Z1's conversion guide:

http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

[Ziggy1621]

Def look onto selling the NA and buying a TT if you're just wanting to boost. I only recommend a swap if you really want a boosted 2+2

[KSpakes87]

I did the TT swap last year in my 90 2+2 and after all the parts I had to buy such as motor mounts, ECU, front clip, exhaust and shipping for everything it ended up costing me about $5k. To beat it all the car has only been running half the time since I did the swap. Turbos blew after only 3k miles.

A plus side to doing the swap is you don't have HICAS and you get the 4:10 differential.

If you do end up doing the swap I would recommend going with a JDM front clip. The N/A exhaust bolts right up to the downpipes. Makes it to were you don't have to do a bunch of modifying on the exhaust. The only thing that I can remember that I had to modify was the oil pressure sending unit wire. The N/A was on the passenger side and the TT was on the drivers side. Just one wire so all you have to do is get you some wire and extend it around the back of the motor then back forward to the sending unit. Everything else was just a parts change from the clip to the car. I did Remove the A/C so don't know if that has to be modded to work.

I think the whole swap ended up taking me a week with no shade tree or air tools.

If you are wanting a TT to modify then the swap is the way to go. If you just want a TT to leave stock then sell yours and buy a TT.

Hope this gives you some insight on the decision you have ahead of you.

[t.mcginley.jr]

You do have to change some things if you want to swap and have AC. The compressors are the same, but the AC condenser is shaped different just like the radiator so that the IC piping can fit. I forget if both AC lines are different or just one of them.

[itsa300zx]

"The only thing that I can remember that I had to modify was the oil pressure sending unit wire. The N/A was on the passenger side and the TT was on the drivers side."

I thought the oil sender was on the left side of the engine, were for RHD JDM cars only. My JDM TT engine came that way. Just need to swap it to the right side in place of the plug (where the USDM location would be)

Also, for the AC lines, I was able to bend/massage the NA lines to fit around the intercooler pipes.