Trying to understand ohm wiring

[TDot]

Doing research on upgrading my system and the best speakers to get. I'm not too happy about the 2 ohm choices out there (I'd prefer to stick to the stock amp). I've seen people here talk about "wiring down" 4 ohms to 2 ohms, and some shops I've gone to say the same thing. I don't understand this. Ever since I've known, you match the ohms to the amp. So can someone explain this "wiring down", and if there is any real downside besides the general, "match ohms"?

[szh]

Doing research on upgrading my system and the best speakers to get. I'm not too happy about the 2 ohm choices out there (I'd prefer to stick to the stock amp). I've seen people here talk about "wiring down" 4 ohms to 2 ohms, and some shops I've gone to say the same thing. I don't understand this. Ever since I've known, you match the ohms to the amp. So can someone explain this "wiring down", and if there is any real downside besides the general, "match ohms"?

I am not an expert on car audio systems, but can give you a bit of information from general stereo knowledge.

In general, modern audio amps are designed to handle speakers in the 4 or 8 ohm range. Old tube-style amps used transformers to match the correct value to maximise the power transferred to the speakers.

If you change a 4 ohm speaker to a 2 ohm speaker, you can effectively double the power "output" from the amp (assuming it does not have any limiter built in or a fuse does not blow, etc.). However, this can lead to much more distortion too.

Furthermore, if all the speakers are not changed, you can get an imbalance in the sound - for example, if the tweeter is different from the mid-range, then one set of frequencies will sound overly exaggerated compared to the other.

Most importantly, though, the amp longevity (if it is not designed for 2 ohm speakers) will be reduced and it may blow fuses a lot, or worst case, burn out the output amplifier section.

BTW, if you don't have 2 ohm speakers, you can wire two 4 ohm speakers in parallel. Keep in mind that the speaker impedances vary by frequency, so even a 4 ohm speaker may have lower impedance (like near 2 ohm) at some frequencies. Combining such speakers in parallel may overload your amp too much - particularly if it is designed for 4 or 8 ohm minimum.

And, if you use low-impedance speakers, your wiring needs to be pretty hefty too - 10 gauge minimum (or thicker ... i.e., lower gauge numbers). That can get expensive to rewire your car if you don't DIY.

Z

[TDot]

Thanks, "parallel wiring" was the key phrase I was looking for. I found this: http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=124
I didn't read the whole thing, but seems pretty informative(maybe sticky). The image of parallel wiring alone tells me I'm not interested, it will cause me to lose my stereo image If I bought two 4 ohm speakers for the front...from what I understand.

At any rate, for now I think I'm just going to deaden the car, maybe build a small box around the cone of the sub...or is it a free air sub, and then upgrade the entire audio system later this year or early next...with the stuff I have planned over the next 30 days I will have spent enough money on this car this year.

[Rex]

Parallel & series wiring allows you to change the "load" created by speakers. You wouldn't normally wire the right & left together to do so, but rather add a 2nd ( or 3rd, 4th, etc) to change the load.

There's some info on this in our (less than active) Car Audio sub-forum.

[szh]

Thanks, "parallel wiring" was the key phrase I was looking for. I found this: http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=124
I didn't read the whole thing, but seems pretty informative(maybe sticky). The image of parallel wiring alone tells me I'm not interested, it will cause me to lose my stereo image If I bought two 4 ohm speakers for the front...from what I understand.

Oops, sorry, I did not mean that you would wire the left and right two together.

I meant that you would have to install four speakers - two for the left wired in parallel and two for the right installed in parallel. This may not be possible in most cars for the front (no room for multiple speakers in this way). Rears would be easier, but still require four speakers there.

And, if you leave the front at 4 ohm and change the rears to 2 ohm, the whole thing will be imbalanced front to rear.

At any rate, for now I think I'm just going to deaden the car, maybe build a small box around the cone of the sub...or is it a free air sub, and then upgrade the entire audio system later this year or early next...with the stuff I have planned over the next 30 days I will have spent enough money on this car this year.

Sounds like a plan!

Personally (and this is just my opinion) I don't consider the inside of a car to be quite the place for listening to the best audio - too much other noise around. So, my audio money goes into my home stereo system!

Z

[TDot]

I never thought you meant that I had to wire the left and right together, but I know there is no way to fit another set of speakers in...or at least I don't see it without modifications...so the only way would be to wire the left and right together.

Personally (and this is just my opinion) I don't consider the inside of a car to be quite the place for listening to the best audio - too much other noise around. So, my audio money goes into my home stereo system!

You are totally right, I agree with you. I don't need to rock the block. The distortion I hear...that no one else around me seems to hear unless they concentrate smh...simply annoys me, and I just need slightly more pronounced base. Unfortunately, the only way to fix these "slight" issue is to spend more than I would ever want to, and ever have, on the car audio. Insight: I've NEVER had to spend a penny for a cars audio system before smh.

Just so I'm clear on the system, can someone break down the specs. I'm under the impression that the fronts are 2ohm, rear are 4ohm, and sub is 1 ohm.

Thanks.

[szh]

Understood.

I have not looked yet, but it is perhaps possible that the speaker specs are listed in the full-length manual (link to them is in my sig in my first post in this thread).

Z