Trying to unclutter engine bay

[aleph1]

Alright, so I've search a bunch about removing the random emissions systems and such, but never really found anything conclusive. (btw- this is a 92 KA car)

What can you remove from the bay with, but still be able to pass emissions (just sniffer)? And how do you remove said items? I know the AIV can be removed, seemed simple enough, but I'm having more trouble understanding removal of the EGR.

Also want to remove the AC system, any instructions/tips on that? I don't know jack about HVAC lol Will the heater still work? I'm gonna still need that! lol

[2Fass240us]

Also want to remove the AC system, any instructions/tips on that? I don't know jack about HVAC lol Will the heater still work? I'm gonna still need that! lol

I haven't had to worry about any emissions garbage because I will be using a SR, but I have done extensive engine bay cleanup as well as HVAC reduction.

I removed the A/C stuff completely, including the evaporator underneath the dash. I am keeping the heater stuff so I will have defrost capability, however. If you want A/C removal instructions, let me know as I've taken it all out.

-Andy

[andrave]

if you remove any emissions equipment you will fail smog on visual.other than for emissions reason, the only things you need under your hood are the fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve, and the brake booster.

[aleph1]

I dont need to worry about visual....I dont live in CA anymore =) Im just wondering if its possible to pass the sniffer.

[USDM240]

I dont need to worry about visual....I dont live in CA anymore =) Im just wondering if its possible to pass the sniffer.

with the EGR removed, you wont be able to...

[RagingPanda]

Please give me advice on taking out the A/C. Thanks man

[eddiec]

...removing the a/c. pretty simple here, but first you'll have to evecuate the system. theres 2 ways- - the proper legal way of taking it to a shop and letting them do it. or just do it yourself, keep in mind thats supposed to be illegal and what not. so don't let your neighbors see. unbolting the compressor is pretty simple. also unbolt the bracketry holding it on. the condensor will require you to loosen the radiator so that it will lean forward a little bit. fwiw i did this last winter when i drained the coolant and the radiator was already out of the vehicle. all the associated lines are aluminium which can be cut/ destroyed to get them out. the drier over near the battery can be removed next. you will need to remove the lines going to the firewall if you want to remove the evaporator. to remove the evap from behind the glovebox first remove the glovebox. i think 3 hold on the lid and a couple more hold the box in. what your looking for is the "box" right there behind the dash. wrestle it out and open it up. remove the evap core from inside. rig up a way to block the hole in the back of the box from removal of the coolant lines. now put this emoty box back in the dash. if not your heat might not blow too good. thats it for a/c removal. only thing left hanging should be the elec connections for the drier and compressor which can be taped up/ removed whatever.

on the uncluttered engine bay subject, i also rerouted some wiring under the hood. i removed the mech fan and run an elevtric now. after i did it i didn't like the wires for the MAF and the coil wires hanging across the gap from the valve cover to the radiator and then running to there connections. so what i did was cut open the main loom running beside the fuel rail and remove those wires that went acroos the gap. onced removed i retaped everything and put it back to its stock appearance. i then taped up the wires i was rerouting. i ran them along the fire wall to where the brake booster is. from there they run along the shock tower to where the coil is. here some of the wires get connected and the MAF connection runs along the frame rail to where it needs to be. pics http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/395215/11. in fact i had to cut a little bit of the lenght off going the coil. so actually it was also a weight savings. albeit a small one.
Modified by eddiec at 5:23 PM 12/29/2004

[2Fass240us]

I'm not sure how familiar you are with A/C systems or cars in general, so I'm going to explain it in as simple terms as possible.

The first thing to do is bleed pressure from the system using the high and low-pressure service bleed valves. The high-pressure valve is located in front of the condenser (the thing that looks like a radiator and is in front of the radiator), and has a red cap. The low-pressure service bleed valve is on the inlet line to the compressor (the line going from it toward the firewall), and has a black cap. FSM Page HA-10 has a diagram of the system, including these two bleed valves.

Before I detail the process for bleeding the pressure, I should note that it's both illegal and semi-dangerous. The best way to do it is to go to a mechanic with the proper tools. Mine happened to bleed accidentally due to faulty service bleed valves , which is good since my car had no engine in it at the time. Make sure you do it in the open with adequate ventilation, and please wear safety glasses! A faceshield would be better actually, but hopefully the stuff won't be squirting directly at your face.

To bleed the valves, first remove the red and black caps (high and low-pressure, respectively). Take a small flathead screwdriver and press on the button in the middle of the valve. Refrigerant will discharge directly out of this valve, so please be mindful of this and don't look directly at it. Make sure to only do a little bit at a time too, as it will fog the area with refrigerant mist, and this is extremely detrimental to your health. After you bleed both valves entirely, you're ready to take everything apart.

The first connection I took loose was on the line from the compressor to the firewall, near the brake booster. I loosened it slowly to make sure that all refrigerant had bled off before I took it completely loose. Then I took the other compressor line (to the condenser) loose by removing the fastener just behind and to the left (if you're looking at the front of the car) of the driver's side headlight motor. I can post a picture of this if you cannot find it.

Unhook the electrical plug to the compressor, which should be "E44" per FSM page EL-98. Remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor to the engine-mounting bracket. Since you took the compressor inlet and outlet lines loose earlier, you should be able to pull the compressor out easily. Then take the bracket itself off by removing 4 more bolts. I may have left something out here since my car didn't come with the KA in it, but this is as close as I can get.

Next loosen the two fittings on the firewall that go to the evaporator (underneath the dash). The smaller one can be done using a combination wrench, but I had to use an adjustable wrench to get the larger one since I didn't have a combination wrench large enough. After these are loose, you can remove the insulated line that went to the compressor, including the bracket that mounts it to the firewall near the throttle cable. The smaller evaporator line goes to the liquid tank (which is beside the battery tray) by running along the frame rail, and connects to the tank at the connection closest to the condenser. I would recommend loosening these with a 10mm(?) combination wrench or GearWrench even though they look like a large Phillips head screwdriver would work. You'll only end up messing up the bolts if you try to loosen them with a screwdriver, trust me.

Next you can loosen the other liquid tank connection if you haven't already done so. The other end of this line connects just below the high-pressure service bleed valve, and can be loosened using two combination wrenches or one combo wrench and an adjustable wrench. Once this connection is loose, you can either worm this line out, or wait to remove it until you have the condenser out. The final line to remove is the one with the high-pressure bleed valve on it, and can be removed similarly to the previous line.

After the lines are out, you can remove the condenser by removing the mounting nuts. I cannot remember how many there are, but my pictures show two at the top. Since my car didn't have the radiator in it, I would imagine this would be in the way, but cannot offer any insight as I have not had any personal experience with it.

I took the dash out to remove the evaporator, but it sounds like eddiec did it by removing the glovebox. Once this is done, remove the A/C plenum by taking the mounting screws out, and any wiring or other fasteners (I have trouble remembering little details like this). As eddiec said, simply remove the evaporator core from the plenum, duct tape the inlet and outlet holes closed with a coupla layers, and put it back in the same way you took it out.

Some would say that the evaporator is not worth removing given the trouble it takes to do it, but if you want it out and have the time to do so, go for it. The condenser might be a little difficult to remove as well if the radiator is in the way, but you should be able to do it without opening up any coolant lines. Good luck!

-Andy

[andrave]

you can cut the evaporator out anytime, the radiator shouldn't pose much trouble. Just be careful not to punch a hole in your radiator.I woudln't bother removing the evaporator, its a lot of work and it isn't that heavy.

[2Fass240us]

you can cut the evaporator out anytime, the radiator shouldn't pose much trouble. Just be careful not to punch a hole in your radiator.

Did you mean to say "condenser" instead of "evaporator" in the first sentence?

I woudln't bother removing the evaporator, its a lot of work and it isn't that heavy.

This is my thinking for someone not going to the same lengths that I have to save weight. I hope to be able to weigh this tomorrow or within the next coupla weeks, and I'll add that to my site when I do. My gut tells me that it's not more than 2-3 pounds though.

[aleph1]

Any idea how much weight this saves??

[andrave]

yes I meant condensor... by the radiator. slip of the brain

[2Fass240us]

Any idea how much weight this saves??

I weighed the compressor, condenser, fluid tank, and lines after I removed them, and they're 29.2 pounds together:

Check out my S13 Weight Savings Guide here: http://www.mysportscar.com/fea...x.htm

[240marcuSX]

2fass, when you took all that a/c stuff out, did you have it drained at a shop first? or did you just unbolt it and take it out? my a/c doesnt work so im trying to shed the weight, any tips for removing this stuff?

[2Fass240us]

2fass, when you took all that a/c stuff out, did you have it drained at a shop first? or did you just unbolt it and take it out? my a/c doesnt work so im trying to shed the weight, any tips for removing this stuff?

I bled it myself. pretty much everything you need to know to remove the A/C stuff has been covered by me or eddiec.