Trying to rebuild my first engine. KA24DE. need guidance.

[iam0jacks]

So I bought a 240 to mess with in my free time a few months ago. It's more of a learning project for me. I understand the search feature and I've used it so much my thoughts are all scrambled.

I blew the engine drifting a while back. I knew it was going to blow soon but I had originally planned to buy a new engine anyway. But I totalled my truck because some douche fell asleep on the highway and he didn't have insurance so now all I have is my 240 and about $1,500 cash. I Plan on fixing the truck but in good time.

SO whenever I crank the car It runs and idles fine but white steam comes out of the exhaust. A lot of it. So I'm sure coolant is leaking into one of the cylinders. I want to go ahead and rebuild the engine the right way. what should I do? What parts do I need to replace? And how much would that all cost? I have a factory service manual to help me out but any write ups with pics would be very helpful.

Also Just so I don't have to tear back into the engine later what should I put in there to make the bottom end stronger? Next few months I'd like to go turbo and want around 400hp. I would really appreciate any help and thanks in advance!

[daemonyk]

The problem is, it's hard to assess what is or isn't damaged w/o actually taking the engine apart and looking at it. It could be just (and is likely at least) the HG, or a warped block or head, or it could be a cracked block or head, or any and every one of them also other things could be damaged as a result, too. Since it sploded while drifting, the pistons, rings, valves, cylinders, and bearings might have problems, too. MIGHT. Only a worst case scenario. Point is, can't really tell w/o cracking the engine open. A simple thing to do is run a compression test on the cylinders. That may at least give you an idea of what might be blown, and where, without having to tear it in half.

You may want to cart the block and head to a machine shop to have it checked for warpage cracks etc, and if need be, decked machined w/e. If it's too hosed, might want to find a "new" KA - since you're willing to rebuild anyways, you can buy one in less than perfect condition as long as it's not hosed, too. I might even have a KA available in a few weeks...

Cheapest I've seen a full rebuild kit for a KA was around $500. All gaskets n seals + HG, piston rings, valve seals, oil pump / front cover, the works. Don't know if it comes with head bolts - you won't want to re-use the old ones - and you'll probably want head studs anyways of you plan to go turbo. If you want to beef it up, mostly oem gaskets are fine I think, someone other than me should answer the HG question, def get head / cap / rod studs, forged internals are nice but close ish to a grand once you throw in the bearings and rings. You can never beat a car with too much maintenance Not sure exactly what is needed to support 400HP on a KA, but I feel that's at least a good start, give or take.

In the meantime, def read the FSM, check this out http://www.240sxtech.com/, and don't underestimate search. The in-site search can be kinda dumb, but I've found that you can trick google into "searching" NICO by adding the word "NICO" to the search. It works fairly well.

Let us know if you have any more ?'s

[krash]

Since you're in a bind, I'd go ahead and just replace the head gasket. You should do a compression test, but I dont think it will work well because of your blown headgasket. If you want 400hp you're going to need forged rods and pistons. Thats going to be around $800-$1000 in parts. You'll also want to get machine work done on the block (make sure the cylinders are not too out of round etc). Depending on what happens there, you might need to overbore (prices depend on your location really).

Rebuilding the bottom end is pretty expensive, but if you do decide to do it, this is what I'd do:

1. Get engine down to bare block
2. Take to machine shop to check the bore, decide weather it needs overbore
3. Buy (larger) forged pistons that match the overbore that you will be doing
4. Take pistons and block back to machine shop and have them overbore to match the pistons
5. Have crank mic'd to see if it is within spec.
6. If you're going with non-Nissan bearings that are not graded, take your bearings, crank, block, girdle, and rods to a machine shop and have them polish the crank to match the oil clearance that you want to run (I'd stay close to the loose side of the OEM specs)
7. Slap that sumbish together.

The most important thing here is to find an honest, experienced machine shop that will give you good advice and help you through the process and not just take your money.

[s14wayzz]

For 400hp you'll have to beef it up pretty well. Im currently building up my KA for 450-500hp so similar power goals. All the necessary machine work like Krash mentioned defiantly needs to be done . You'll also need to go with Arp head & main studs, something like clevite rod & main bearings, new headgasket..something like a cosworth is a great investment , rods and pistons (wiseco 9:0:1 pistons & eagle rods is a good and popular combo). If you got some money you could also build the head. With all the machine work and built block it will set you back a decent amount + you'll need all the other goodies. Good luck.