trunk doesn't and hood bends at strut point

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ptople
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I read about the pushing down on the trunk while hitting the release button,, I can hear it clicking,, but the trunk doesn't open.. could it be the opening torsion bars are weak.. the trunk barely stays open on it's own... and at the other end... the hood flexes and is bending at the strut mount point on the passenger side when I try to close the hood.. anyone else have this problem with a 92 Q45.


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elwesso
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First problem... I vehad this happen on both my Qs, i assume you can open the trunk normally with the key, yes? If so, bend the little flap thing back... YOull see it by the latch on the car, when you look down at it.... If straight foreward towards the front of the car is 12oclock, bend it with a pair of needlenose pliers to like 1130 or so, just a little.... In other words, counter clockwise...

Regarding the other thing, oil your hood struts and your hood hinges real real good.... penatrating lubricant is fine but be sure you keep up with it.

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Q451990
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elwesso wrote:First problem... I vehad this happen on both my Qs, i assume you can open the trunk normally with the key, yes? If so, bend the little flap thing back... YOull see it by the latch on the car, when you look down at it.... If straight foreward towards the front of the car is 12oclock, bend it with a pair of needlenose pliers to like 1130 or so, just a little.... In other words, counter clockwise...
Wes old buddy... could you post a picture of what you're talking about? I'm having a no trunk release problem on Q2... I hear the solenoid click, but it's much quieter than it should be - more of a "click" than a "clunk" ... I assumed that it was a bad solenoid.

Heath

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elwesso
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Yeah let me get to it when i get home.....

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PoorManQ45
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are you home yet?

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elwesso
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OK here you go.....

The circled part is what im talking about... Put your needle nose pliers how the green line shows, and then bend it slightly to the left as shown...

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Q451990
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Thanks Wes! I'll compare the parts between Q1 and Q2 when Dana gets home tonight and go from there...

Heath

ProperQ
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Wess is correct if you can hear it clicking but no action to release the trunk. Look at the extension lever on the trunk latch itself. See how it releases when you unlock your trunk manually ( you will need to lock the latch with a flat head S.D. while open), it moves to the left a bit. Now look in the hole where the release motor is (if you have keyless trunk you can see how it pushes the lever on the latch to release) it needs to be making contact with the lever to unlock. This happens most when you (or someone) slamms the trunk lid.

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mattd1979
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Car: 1990 Pearl White Q45 plain Jane with 266,000 miles. 2015 moonlight white metallic Q70L with 20” wheels, sport brakes and a 5.6L at 58,000 miles.
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I just thought that I'd let you know that the hood on my car is doing the same thing. It is bending right at the strut attachment point on the passenger side and the hood frame is cracked in that same spot. Mine is a 1990 Q45. What I have to do to avoid bending the hood is push down on the passenger side just above the strut so that the hood does not bend in that area and weaken any more. I am going to have to figure out a way to weld that crack up without damaging the paint on the serface from the heat.


squeefoo
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mattd1979 wrote:I am going to have to figure out a way to weld that crack up without damaging the paint on the serface from the heat.
I think I know where it cracked. This might work, I saw somebody do this when the peripheral edge (frame) spot welds separated from the skin... Prep the weld area, then dam the edge off with duct tape or modeling clay, then run water from a hose over the area (top of hood) which would suffer from the heat. I'd only use .023 wire and spot it first to keep it from absorbing too much heat, then stitch it very carefully.At least this is what I'd do....Hope this helps.

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mattd1979
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Thanks for the info squeefoo.That sounds like a plan. That is what I will try. I will have to change my wire because I think I am running .25 right now.


squeefoo
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mattd1979 wrote:Thanks for the info squeefoo.That sounds like a plan. That is what I will try. I will have to change my wire because I think I am running .25 right now.
Yikes !! .25 ?? I think you mean .023.

I've only heard of .023, .035, .060, and .080 ... .080 is for bridge beams and such.


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