Troubleshooting help, rb20det in 89 240sx (timing/tdc Q, coolant sensor Q etc...

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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splitime
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Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 4:21 pm
Car: 93 miotta-t
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Before I start... I tried referencing as much as i could, pulling up archive articles and such. I couldn't seem to find pictures/data/etc... that was detailed enough to satisfy me. So I offer up my questions and a few pictures in the hopes that someone might know some answers.

Since this will be sorta my intro post... I recently traded a car I had built for a "non-running" rb20det in my 89 240sx se. Sadly I did not build this car. But I am doing my best to revive it to better than new condition. I like to wrench alot... started on Hondas (don't hate... they are cheap and easy to work on... and I tracked them)I have been building a turbo miata as a track car....Lil autox testing (sorting suspension... seeing if its going to blow up...)and this 240 is my next project to take on/learn.

brief history of the 240:Swapped 4 owners ago I believe... information gets sketchy. Car has gone through 2 previous owners and cut out on them. Just driving around... and turns off and won't start up. It then sat... and then was traded in a 'non-running' state to me. Started up for me... drove onto trailer... and sits in garage now. Starts up every time...

I had also been told that the CAS and TPS had both been mucked with. So one of the first simple things I did was adjust the TPS and attempted to time it, as a brief drive around revealed a slower car than I expected.

So the problems and questions...

1.) Timing issueTPS is adjusted to OEM specs.CAS is mid range... when I try to time it so that it is at the set of timing marks... I have to move it 100% counter clockwise to get it to the first timing mark. (the right most of the group).. and at that location, the car wants to die. (this is all with the car warmed up and TPS unplugged... rpm unknown (tach is another issue)).

Just because I saw it was simple to do... I took off the covers to check the timing belt and its alignment.I believe I have it set to TDC, assuming cam markings only line up when crank is also at TDC.Here is the intake cam.Here is the exhaust cam.Here is the crank pulley(timing mark group i was referencing, I couldn't adjust cas enough to get to the Right most mark).

Is this correct? I coulda sworn while timing it, I saw a 0 tdc mark farther down the right side of the crank pulley.

Did the timing belt slip?

2.)Coolant sensorDoes the RB use 2 coolant sensors? One for the gauge cluster and one for the ecu? I found this unplugged.... It is the OEM coolant sensor right? Or is it something else....If it is needed and the ecu coolant temp sensor.... do either of these plugs match it?(over behind headlight area)(in front of radiator, not sure it reaches)

3.) Ignitor groundingMy coil cover (the middle piece) isn't held down by any bolts. The ignitor was held on by 4 screws, with a wire from the harness attached to one of the screws at a corner of it. I did a continuity test between the body of the ignitor and frame/grounds... and didn't get anything.

3A) Does that solitary wire(from engine harness) need proper grounding? 3B) Does the body of the ignitor need proper grounding? 3C) If the cover isn't secured, it'll affect grounding of both right? (I'm assuming they all need to be grounded properly... so either to coil cover and it securely down.... or ignitor grounded by itself.

Phew....

Any help is greatly appreciated. This is just the start of a big revival for me... so a nice start... would be awesome.

Thanks,Dave


onepuff
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Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:16 pm

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Download the FSM to start. It will help you answer most of your questions.

1.I think your timing belt is off. It looks like it is at 30BTDC.

2.The sensor in the radiator hose looks to be for an aftermarket fan controller. The stock sensors are in the pipe off the lower intake manifold going to the upper radiator hose. Gauge sensor is 1 wire ecu sensor is 2 wire.

3. The wire from the harness going to the ignitor does need to be grounded and if the coil pack cover is not bolted down it won't be grounded very well. The body of the ignitor does not need to be grounded. Could be why it doesn't start sometimes.

I would pull the radiator and pull the belts off and get to the timing belt. You may as well do the water pump and timing belt while you are there since you're unsure of the history of the engine. Tensioner pulleys too maybe.

G/L. Get the FSM

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splitime
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onepuff wrote:G/L. Get the FSM
Doh, I had this on the laptop with me out in the garage and didn't even think about it.

I'm going to print it out today... and binder it like I've done for the other cars.

The 1wire sensor and 2wire sensor info should help me track that down. I figured it might be a 2 sensor system like the miata is.

Let the good times begin!

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splitime
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Just checked the FSM for timing information.

It appears that my above picture shows the timing belt is on correctly. The left mark is slightly orange and should represent 0. Each mark to the right goes in 5deg increments.

So... When timing the motor... all of those marks are to the LEFT of the timing mark. As I advance the CAS (counter clockwise), it moves them to the RIGHT and closer to the timing mark. I can almost get it to right most mark (30deg) when I advance it fully counter clockwise.

So... uh.. what is wrong here.

onepuff
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Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:16 pm

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Oh Damn! Sorry about that. Been a while since i looked at it. Good thing 15degrees is in the middle either way you read it or my timing would be all f'd up. Again sorry good thing i told ya to get the fsm. The other info is correct i'm sure

craz4240
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:23 pm
Car: 1995 240sx w/rb20det
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that sensor is for your AC I am pretty sure


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