Trouble with my I30 - please help!!

[limetrees]

So I actually have been having trouble with my 1998 I30 for a year, but the issue went away for a long time and now is back.

Last year I was having trouble with my car, it would start up fine, but then the rpm would drop and it would die as soon as I would shift it into Drive or Reverse. It seemed to happen when it was cooler outside, but after I got it to start, it would drive fine once it got up to speed. I took it to several mechanics and none of them could find the issue. I remember there were some codes possibly related to the purge valve / purge cylinoid, but those went away on their own.

The problem went away too until just recently. It was the same problem but getting progressively worse. It would take many attempts to be able to shift it and not have it die, I felt like I have to get a delicate balance of braking and gas to get it into the sweet spot. And then it was fine.

So I got all tuned up, new transmission fluid and the like, it didn't help. Now I am getting only one code - P0450 - the mechanic said my EVAP canister may be stuck shut, would this cause these issues?

Anyhow, I decided to clean the MAFS (with MAFS cleaner) the first time it worked like a charm and now it starts up and shifts fine, but when I give it gas sometimes it will rev and sometimes it will die! To the extent that I can't even get it out of the driveway. What is going on?? Can anyone help? Thanks so much!!

(Also, I don't know if this helps, but when I start it up it always slowly gains rpm and it revs itself)

[NutriaforBreakfast]

When your car is running, unplug the MAF sensor connector and see if it runs better
Although not conclusive the MAF is bad, I have used this method twice (once on
my car and once on my wife's) and was correct.

If you have a multimeter you can check it electronically using the Floor Shop Manual directions
for additional confirmation of the problem.

Be sure to keep an open mind for additional problems -you really can't fix a car from behind a keyboard
as we try to here.

[enavy58]

I have a 98 I30 and had similar symptoms. First replaced IAC. That work for a bit but then the same symptoms returned. I finally replaced the MAF sensor (Bosch, found on Amazon) and car has been running well since then. Hope that helps.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

I have Bosch O2 sensors on both Maxima cars and haven't had issues with them

[lilmspj]

I am having major problems trying to get my low mileage I30 to pass a smog check. A few weeks ago it died on the road with the scanner showing it to be the idol valve, which has issues on this car from my research, but after a week in the shop it still does not pass smog, and the idol is not the problem.. its the darn computer of the car.

Two years ago (and, I don't drive a lot these days) so it might be a shorter period of time for others, I replace the car's computer.. I got a refurbished one for about $ 600 because the dealer wants $1,500..... now I am back to the same issue because the refurbished computer is just that, refurbished. which keeps me from passing smog. The smog guys want to send me to the dealer, and we have no local ones anymore.

I love my car... it is in great shape, and still holds it class. I have low miles, less than 90K.... (this car has not held up as well as my M 30 that I bought brand new in 1993) .... and with regular maintence should be holding its own!

I am hoping there is some way for me to get this car fixed without another $1,000. bill... its nuts! I am not sure what car I will buy if this can not be smogged

Does anyone have any suggestions?

[maxiiiboy]

You need to find out what is preventing your car from passing the smog.
In general, either your SES light is ON, and than there are some Pxxxx codes; or, the light is not on but you may have some "incomplete" monitors and that will fail you too, at least in many states.
Get yourself an ODBC reader (such as http://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL ... odb+reader) and check it out.