Trouble starting engine for "warm" starts, requires starting fluid. [SOLVED - throttle motor]

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
Dxta
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Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:52 pm
Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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Some few days ago, i noticed my m45 2004, wouldn't start immediately as before, after replacing the steering rack.

I did everything i could, to get the engine to start, but without any success. The engine cranks, and behaves as though it wanted to start(hard starting problem here).

Here's what I noticed:
1. Each time i try starting the engine, i have to apply starting fluid or little gasoline in the intake manifold.
Immediately i crank the engine, the vehicle starts, and run on idle without issues.

2. But after the engine is shut down, the engine would never start again, until starting fluid is applied in the intake manifold.

3. Inspecting the fuel pump filter, noticed the filter was partially clogged. Replaced it with another filter, started, engine started, but and idled well.

4. Test driving the vehicle on light acceleration, vehicle moves well, but on heavy acceleration, it appears as if there's some kind of restriction somewhere.

5. Trying to get another fuel pump assembly to test and see.


PS: A failing fuel pump would indicate, if i keep introducing starting fluid in to the intake manifold, inorder to start the engine?
Last edited by EdBwoy on Fri Jan 14, 2022 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.


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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Yes, having to add fuel definitely indicates starvation, as does bogging out under load. Most likely a slow pump motor, since it stays running once the electrical system voltage rises after starting. However, according to the SM your ride also has one of those Fuel Pump Control Modules, so the motor could be running slow because of a bad module or bad system grounds. You probably want to check those before buying a pump.

Dxta
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Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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Vstar. Thanks for your reply. Please I'm sorry, i mistakenly reported you, when i clicked the exclamation mark. I wanted to click on the quotation marks instead.

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Ilya
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Dxta wrote:
Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:59 pm
Vstar. Thanks for your reply. Please I'm sorry, i mistakenly reported you, when i clicked the exclamation mark. I wanted to click on the quotation marks instead.
All good, I cleared :).

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Ilya wrote:
Thu Jan 06, 2022 2:36 pm
Dxta wrote:
Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:59 pm
Vstar. Thanks for your reply. Please I'm sorry, i mistakenly reported you, when i clicked the exclamation mark. I wanted to click on the quotation marks instead.
All good, I cleared :).
No harm, no foul. Thanks, Ilya!

EniGmA1987
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Car: '06 Infiniti M35 Sport

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Didn't you have a starting issue that ended up being fuel pump related before? It was last year some time I thought. What did you do last time that fixed the issue for a while? Have you ever replaced the fuel pump itself?

Dxta
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Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:52 pm
Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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EniGmA1987 wrote:
Thu Jan 06, 2022 4:44 pm
Didn't you have a starting issue that ended up being fuel pump related before? It was last year some time I thought. What did you do last time that fixed the issue for a while? Have you ever replaced the fuel pump itself?
1. Yes, had a starting issue last year, which ended up being the fuel pump supply or suction hose attached to the pump, that was leaking where it clamps on the pump.

2. Replaced that hose, and all was good.

3. This time around, it's appearing to be the fuel pump itself.

4. The intake or suction hose are all fine, and no leaks.

5. Yes, have replaced the fuel pump before.

EdBwoy
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I feel like your issue is somewhere else rather than the pump. Obviously, the car has no issue with the fuel supply when running, so it's just something in the ignition/engine start logic that isn't jiving well.

I have to ask, do you have any codes? I always scan even if the check engine light isn't on yet.

Dxta
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:52 pm
Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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Got a oxygen sensor heater code only. This wouldn't stop the car from starting i guess.

macgiver
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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Try to locate the fuel pump relay and swap with another ' same type ' relay like from power seat accessory, window , powerlocks etc. Better yet buy a new f/pump relay . ANY other relays that are needed to (see wiring diag. )to initiate OR keep pump running are suspect too , in the same way - try a replacement.

Putting a permanent fuel pressure gauge ( install a Tee ) is I N D I S P E N I B L E in seeing pressure at all times. You may add a 4' extension on the Tee for duct taping the gauge to windshield for test-drive observations of f/pressure.
I had a f/pump relay cause all same symptoms , BUT make sure too that grounds at the F/P controller PLUS grounds at any dropping / ballast resister are also sound . Many controllers simply put the dropping resistor "ON" the ground side of the pump - you got power to pump , pump connected to resister which goes to ground . Pump is at a lower ' rate ' . THEN when higher engine speed is achieved - controller TAKES OUT the dropping resister by bypassing or sort of 'shorting it out ' via MosFet in controller. Kind of simple there, kind of bulletproof cause many times the 'dead' controller may be defaulted to - fuel pump 100% utilizing dropping resistor w/no action on cutting out the resistor. That's in nutshell , yours YMMV , maybe a little different ?

Of all the work on cars I do , NOT installing a permanent / live fuel pressure gauge ( my car kinda easy ), not doing this waaay earlier was a self-imposed azz-kicking moment !!! :gapteeth:

BUT the elephant in the room is how it ALL happens AFTER rack is worked on :facepalm:

Dxta
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Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:52 pm
Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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Tody, i rescanned the ECU, after replacing the pump with a new one, and got p1122/p1126 trouble codes. I got much pressure at the rails, but the engine wouldn't start, without priming it with starter fluid at the intake manifold.

This is looking as if it's not a fuel system related issue.

Immediately I erase the codes with the scantool, the engine just shuts off. Restarting it takes another longer period to start.

I have swapped the fuel pump relay with that of the throttle control motor relay, and still having same issue.

Any headway from anyone?

Why does the motor immediately shuts down when i erase all the fault codes(p1122/p1126)?
Last edited by Dxta on Tue Jan 11, 2022 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

EniGmA1987
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fuel injectors or wires for the injectors maybe?
Bad tune that is running much too lean at idle?

Dxta
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Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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Dxta wrote:
Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:48 pm

@macgiver. Tody, i rescanned the ECU, after replacing the pump with a new one, and got p1122/p1126 trouble codes. I got much pressure at the rails, but the engine wouldn't start, without priming it with starter fluid at the intake manifold.

This is looking as if it's not a fuel system related issue.

Immediately I erase the codes with the scantool, the engine just shuts off. Restarting it takes another longer period to start.

I have swapped the fuel pump relay with that of the throttle control motor relay, and still having same issue.

Any headway from anyone?

Why does the motor immediately shuts down when i erase all the fault codes(p1122/p1126)?

macgiver
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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As I read your Jan 11th , I want to comeback with something concrete , this is become real enigma , I can't say honestly I see any better ideas yet :squint:

But the fuel filter......could the fuel filter have some kind of jellied mass discombolbulating around settling and shutting off fuel ??? I assume though you changed it ? I didn't notice if - Again ,you got a permanent fuel pressure gauge there ?? Helps to see ' live ' fuel pressure .
Just re-read that you did replace filter due to debris , maybe an ongoing clog / debris somewhere or in tank or throughout hoses , and will clog filter , very very quickly again ?
OR Like IACV isn't doing it ?

macgiver
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p.s. Troibleshoot the IACV , do the " component tests " in FSM , don't use a test light on the IACV harness unless specified in FSM - use a voltmeter , De-oxit the terminals or at least plug it in'nout several times for best connectivity .FSM Tests probly able to be done on-car , but if very dirty may need removal .
Also many times the IACV gasket comes ' clean ' ( fairly intact & stuck on IACV ) and I generally put them back with light coat of grease , those little gaskets hard to find and smart to not have to SCRAPE & REPLACE !!
Possible in doing the rack job you " bumped " the IACV connector , mine is very loose from adj. idle rpm and I've R & R'ed the conn. too many times ?

EdBwoy
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Dxta wrote:
Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:48 pm
Tody, i rescanned the ECU, after replacing the pump with a new one, and got p1122/p1126 trouble codes. ...


Why does the motor immediately shuts down when i erase all the fault codes(p1122/p1126)?
The problem is at the throttle body.

I would start by doing the idle air relearn (3 procedures total. Stopwatch highly recommended). You might end up needing to replace something, but at least the relearns are a cheap way to start

Dxta
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:52 pm
Car: Infiniti M45 sedan base sport

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EdBwoy wrote:
Thu Jan 13, 2022 11:46 am
Dxta wrote:
Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:48 pm
Tody, i rescanned the ECU, after replacing the pump with a new one, and got p1122/p1126 trouble codes. ...


Why does the motor immediately shuts down when i erase all the fault codes(p1122/p1126)?
The problem is at the throttle body.

I would start by doing the idle air relearn (3 procedures total. Stopwatch highly recommended). You might end up needing to replace something, but at least the relearns are a cheap way to start
The throttle motor got replaced, and everything back to normal.
Thanks everyone

EdBwoy
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Thanks for the update. I'm glad you were able to get it sorted out.


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