97 Maxima SE, 5sp with 132k.
I'm currently changing the clutch and control arms and figured it's also a good time to replace the CV boots. (Old ones werent torn, fortunately).
I'm trying to reattach the outer CV joint to the pass side axle, and it's being a serious bugger. I have a new snap ring, and have lined up the splines well, but that ring will not catch and squeeze in. I'm using a dead blow mallet to strike the axle nut, and I've tried tapping, hitting, and smashing to no avail. I think installing the ring stretches it out. (my snap ring pliers are the kind with pins, and won't work with this ring) Haven't tried the drivers side axle yet.
Any suggestions?
Dave
Trouble reassembling CV joint
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s13sr20chris
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Re: Trouble reassembling CV joint (dgeesaman)
use channel lock pliers to compress ring as much as possible. you will have to squeeze it from many diff angles very hard. then grease it up, center it and pray she slides in. if she wont go in with moderate force DONT FORCE IT. putting the axle in a vice can help a lot too. also, i have heard that you can leave it in the freezer to let it contract and that will help but i have never tried it. be very carefull about whacking the joint. you dont want to mess up the threads. i use a brass hammer with the nut partially threaded on.
also when you go to put the joint on align the snap ring so its gap is up. this will prevent the joint from catching on the lip of the snap ring. the inner diameter of the ring should not at any point have clearance between it and the outer diameter of the splines on the axel. if It does it will roll when you try to hammer the joint on.
Re: (NISTECH)
Thanks for the tips. I think the channellocks and vise will be a big help.NISTECH wrote:also when you go to put the joint on align the snap ring so its gap is up. this will prevent the joint from catching on the lip of the snap ring. the inner diameter of the ring should not at any point have clearance between it and the outer diameter of the splines on the axel. if It does it will roll when you try to hammer the joint on.
What do you mean by moving the gap of the snap ring so it's at the top?
Dave
The answer:
First, give yourself a head start by compressing the ring as much as possible once it's in the groove.
Second, put 1/3 of the grease in the back of the joint behind the bearings, and 1/3 in the base of the boot against the axle, but not on the splines. Also, c*** the bearing joint about 30° so that you can clearly see the splines from one side.
Third, gently align and slip the axle into the joint splines until they touch the ring. Do not hammer on it yet. While keeping light pressure on the joint, use a very thin flat bladed screwdriver to reach in and press the ring into the groove. The pressure you are putting on the joint will hold the ring down once the screwdriver pushes it into place. This method is immensely less stressful than trying to get the ring well centered and all that.
Without releasing the pressure on the joint, now tap the joint fully onto the axle with the hammer. It should go on very easily. Slide the boot onto the joint, and leave one side cracked open. Squish the rest of the grease into the joint, rolling the grease tube like you're working with the last bit of toothpaste. Now go to the opposite side, use the screwdriver to gently pry a place for air to escape, and smush the boot some to get some air out.
Finally, fasten the metal band but be gentle in the area where the band folds over itself. I got a little zealous with the hammer, and the tapping broke one of the bands.
This method took me about 2min per joint.
Dave
First, give yourself a head start by compressing the ring as much as possible once it's in the groove.
Second, put 1/3 of the grease in the back of the joint behind the bearings, and 1/3 in the base of the boot against the axle, but not on the splines. Also, c*** the bearing joint about 30° so that you can clearly see the splines from one side.
Third, gently align and slip the axle into the joint splines until they touch the ring. Do not hammer on it yet. While keeping light pressure on the joint, use a very thin flat bladed screwdriver to reach in and press the ring into the groove. The pressure you are putting on the joint will hold the ring down once the screwdriver pushes it into place. This method is immensely less stressful than trying to get the ring well centered and all that.
Without releasing the pressure on the joint, now tap the joint fully onto the axle with the hammer. It should go on very easily. Slide the boot onto the joint, and leave one side cracked open. Squish the rest of the grease into the joint, rolling the grease tube like you're working with the last bit of toothpaste. Now go to the opposite side, use the screwdriver to gently pry a place for air to escape, and smush the boot some to get some air out.
Finally, fasten the metal band but be gentle in the area where the band folds over itself. I got a little zealous with the hammer, and the tapping broke one of the bands.
This method took me about 2min per joint.
Dave
Re: (NISTECH)
Was something unclear? It boils down to me using a flat-bladed screwdriver to reach in and push the snap ring into the groove before attempting to tap the CV joint the rest of the way onto the axle.NISTECH wrote:?
Dave
nothing was unclear. i just dont understand why you asked how to do it if you knew how to do it. Chris and I have been installing CV boots for many years on many nissans including many of your model of car. the way we told you how to do it is very effecient and quick otherwise we would not have done it this way for so many years.
I have seen techs do it the way you did it but it certainly took much more then 2 mins to do it with all the slop in the opposing end of the axel. No worries though, everyone has their own way of doing things.
Not trying to snap at you here. so dont take it the wrong way.
I have seen techs do it the way you did it but it certainly took much more then 2 mins to do it with all the slop in the opposing end of the axel. No worries though, everyone has their own way of doing things.
Not trying to snap at you here. so dont take it the wrong way.
No, I figured this out last night after I considered your advice.
I just wanted to follow up with what I felt was the answer I was looking for. I hope it didn't read like a quiz. I've been using Usenet and forums for years, and I always try to follow up with my results. The 2 min btw was only the step of sliding the splines together - I had spent about 1-2 hours the previous night unsucessfully.
I just wanted to follow up with what I felt was the answer I was looking for. I hope it didn't read like a quiz. I've been using Usenet and forums for years, and I always try to follow up with my results. The 2 min btw was only the step of sliding the splines together - I had spent about 1-2 hours the previous night unsucessfully.