Trouble lights on dash came on VDC, ABS, Slip

[wingFeather]

Someone on another forum suggested the brake fluid level >>>sensor<<< may be bad or intermittent.

[RappinJB]

@wingFeather, I did the 'brake fluid' when it first happened about 8 months or so ago, and that actually worked, up until this week when the 3 lights came on again. I checked the brake fluid (still full) so wasn't sure what the issue could be. I did have brakes/rotors re-done about a year ago, have had tires rotated, and actually had a slow leak in 1 tire because of a "faulty TPMS" senson in one of the tires... not sure if the tpms in tire could be the bug causing a warning, but I've got a guy looking at it now to try to help me figure it out.
The 'brake fluid trick' did work this time.
I let the mech know about the suggestions from the forum and about some of the other 'issues' and bugs that people came up agains that worked in the past.
SO, we'll see if he can pin it down and get it fixed for me~

[RappinJB]

Ok, I was different lights.... Had the RAS/VDC OFF/ SLIP warnings. Wasn't the brake fluid this time, it was a failed G-Sensor. Had a few other codes, but the lightes are currently 'out'.

We'll see how it goes-

[JDALSTON]

Greetings all,
I was reading some of the post and it seems like those lights do come on for any trouble you have. I have an 08 M35 that i bought used. those lights came on and i tookit to the Infinity dealer and found out it was "Switch Assy Stop Lm", something to do with the break lights, some kind of relay that activates your bake light when you press on the brake pedal.

[Kenbone]

2004 INFINITI M45 Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

I took my 2004 M45 to the dealership yesterday for just an oil change, and I didn't have the VDC/Slip issues on my dash when I pulled in to the service entrance, but once they completed the oil change, miraculously they appeared. The service manager then qouted me a $500+ estimate to get it fixed. He then mentioned that the rear brakes would need replacing soon, along with the belts under the hood. Hmmmm. The car just hit 40,000 miles and had been serviced since it was new, just by another dealership. I typically dread going to any dealership for any reason to avoid these types of issues. I feel like they sabotaged my car for profit, yet It's impossible to prove. I too tried topping off the brake fluid, but its no use. I'm going to see if a mechanic I've been using for my other cars can tackle this issue for less. I don't think I'll be using the dealership for anything further. It's just too risky, and I simply can't afford $500 dollar oil changes. Does anybody have an idea how to possibly reset the SLIP/VDC lights?

[MaxBolus]

2004 INFINITI M45 Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

I took my 2004 M45 to the dealership yesterday for just an oil change, and I didn't have the VDC/Slip issues on my dash when I pulled in to the service entrance, but once they completed the oil change, miraculously they appeared. The service manager then qouted me a $500+ estimate to get it fixed. He then mentioned that the rear brakes would need replacing soon, along with the belts under the hood. Hmmmm. The car just hit 40,000 miles and had been serviced since it was new, just by another dealership. I typically dread going to any dealership for any reason to avoid these types of issues. I feel like they sabotaged my car for profit, yet It's impossible to prove. I too tried topping off the brake fluid, but its no use. I'm going to see if a mechanic I've been using for my other cars can tackle this issue for less. I don't think I'll be using the dealership for anything further. It's just too risky, and I simply can't afford $500 dollar oil changes. Does anybody have an idea how to possibly reset the SLIP/VDC lights?

I don't think you can reset the lights as long as you have a bad component in the system. Mine went out when the new sensor was installed.

At least they told you which sensor was bad, you're halfway there
See my earlier posts- these are all fairly easy DIY jobs, and your mechanic can likely do them for less than the dealer if you don't want to take them on.
Heck, only 40K miles? That's cool..put the money into it, it will treat you well for a long time yet

[TDot]

These lights have been popping up on mine. It started soon after I grounded two simple wires to the grounding point on the passenger side just under the glove box...where the nav, screen, and a few other stuff is grounded. The thing I grounded there does not draw high voltage or current. I tightened the grounding nut back pretty tight so I really don't think it has to do with that. I haven't checked the brake fluid yet because I am just reading this now, but has anyone else had this issue and found it to be anything else besides what has been discussed so far? The lights come on randomly for no particular reason, so I can't readily reproduce it.

[OmegaRoach]

Greetings all,
I was reading some of the post and it seems like those lights do come on for any trouble you have. I have an 08 M35 that i bought used. those lights came on and i tookit to the Infinity dealer and found out it was "Switch Assy Stop Lm", something to do with the break lights, some kind of relay that activates your bake light when you press on the brake pedal.

Man, I have been dealing with this issue for A LONG time now! I almost have it figured out. I ended up taking my car to a local Brake Check that has the scanner that can read these codes. It pulled the same Switch Assy Stop Lm code for me. It it appears to be the stop light switch that is connected to the brake pedal. My only issue now is getting it installed correctly. There is another switch for the cruise control that is under this switch and it appears that they both need to be installed in a certain matter so they can work together.

[ewilson610]

i was driving to work this morning and this occurred to me as well. Car died at intersection and then when it restarted the Check Engine light was on, VDC light was on and so was the slip light. I already called my mechanic to bring it in but will it be okay to drive about 10 minutes to get there?

[OmegaRoach]

Could be your camshaft/crankshaft sensors. My advice would be to take it to Autozone for a FREE diagnostic. If it shows one of those sensors as being the problem then it is time to replace ALL THREE sensors (best way to do it). There are youtube videos showing how to do it and it really isn't difficult. You may be able to save a LOT of money by doing it yourself. I did mine in the matter of an hour or two. First time doing them, but the youtube videos were VERY beneficial.
And yes, you should be fine to drive it.

[ewilson610]

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

[steve_c]

I am going through the same thing right now, ABS, VDC & Slip lights.
As others have said (all true) this is a sensitive system and shutdown can come from several source failures. While checking basics, do not overlook mismatched tires, mismatched tread depth, & under/overinflated tire(s).

[OmegaRoach]

I did end up fixing my issue by replacing the stop light switch. It took some adjustment to get it right, but in the end all was cured and I haven't had a problem since.

[steve_c]

Omega,
I read your original postings where you mentioned these switches. Like you said, they are a PITA to adjust without a consult tool. My question is, did your stop light switch appear to be working OK before you did the switch R&R?

[Tolani2020]

If all of your lights come on, speedometer and RPM remains at 0, car jerks to switch gears , drives sluggish.,,its not the alternator, battery, starter ur ECM module. Its your cruise control laser. I have 05 QX56 its at the dealership and they disengaged the laser. To fix $1700+labor. It will throw a bunch of codes P0455 U1000 and some other internal codes. The laser is going out and is causing communication problems.

[Vshivnarine]

So I recently changed all my rotors and pads, and the lights did not come on. I just swapped tires on my car and the treads are kinda low, but still there. drove it roughly 50 miles after the tires were installed. I woke up the next day and started the car and the slip, vdc and ras lights light up while I was driving. I had to make a 3 hour drive and the first time I stopped and started the car they didn't come on right away, and as soon as I braked at a light they popped up. I have looked around on forums and read up on brake fluid levels, hicase module. My brake fluid is filled and I have not looked at the module as of yet because I don't feel like getting raped at a dealership. Any suggestions?

[Tystik68]

I have been having this issue for a year, off and on. heres what i found. when I depress the brake TO THE FLOOR and let it off, a switch makes and the lights come on. This is just in the driveway.If I dont press really far, the light wont come on. It also seems that if I mini pump the brakes to build up pressure, the pedal wont go to the floor. I have good level, and the fluid has been flushed and replaced. Could this be a sign of a weak master cylinder?
So the switch makes on release of the brake pedal, I dont know what switch this may be? does anyone?
Oddly when it is really cold (canada cold) the light comes on less frequently. Maybe fluid is more dense and not as prone to leak in the master???? Help, ive been told the ABS motor may be bad because when I changed pads I just pushed in the pistons with a clamp. I was told that the fluid must be let out the bleed screws, not pushed back up to the master..... help

[DS2009m35x]

Just had this exact issue on my 2009 M35X. (VDC, SLP, ABS, lane departure pictogram) Dealer reported the following:
DTC C1142 code. Stop lamp switch malfunction. Replace stop lamp switch and adjust. One of the contacts was Open Circuited.
Switch was $58.68. Of course T/S time and replacement labor pushed the final cost to $270.
No issues with brake fluid being low, etc.

[DS2009m35x]

should have added the switch p/n
25320AX00C switch assy stop

[steve_c]

Tystik,
I have a 2006 M35x, my problem mirrors yours 100%
Like you, There is no low fluid light present!
I still have not solved the problem.

From day one, new, all brake fluid bleeds have been done by me via vacuum, all old fluid expelled from brake caliper bleeders every 2 years.

I just changed out all 4 pads to see if this made a difference in the brake pedal to floor distance, (like you, lights come on when brake pedal depressed close to max pedal travel), no difference.

In my case, despite the slip/abs/vdc lights being on, when I hard brake, my abs kicks in & works fine. Same for the traction control function, it seems to work fine, the car moves off the line in a straight line!
In my case, what does not function when the lights are on is the Cruise Control I have Intelligent cruise control (ICC)

There are 2 brake switches mounted to the brake pedal, one above the other. In the 2006 M Factory Service Manual (FSM), the upper switch is the brake light switch, the lower is the ICC (cruise control) brake switch.

DSC2009 posted some helpful info, I am going to replace my ICC brake switch next. Not sure of the part # he posted, for my application, the part # is different for 2006 & 07 models. I did check my ICC brake hold relay in the engine bay, it seems to check out OK.

One more note.
When I perform an ICC self diagnostic check in manual mode (no consult scanner) as per FSM page ACS-34, I do get trouble codes, but I cannot recall the main code that pops up as I do not have the paperwork in front of me!

[Tystik68]

I think I have decided that my master cylinder is weak. when I hammer on the brakes they will hold(chevron expanded) if I let off and the reapply slowly it will eventually reach the floor. This is over about a minute. When the pedal hits the floor, releasing it trips the "stroke" switch and causes all the lights. It brakes straight when the system is not tripped (ABS), but grabs badly when lights are on(no ABS). New master on order $245 CDN raybestos. Will let you know how it comes out.

[Tystik68]

I think I solved it!!! I changed pads last year, and now its winter up here, i noticed when the lights are on and nothing is working, my LF wheel always locked up first. Upon investigating the caliper I noticed that both pistons were not coming out together, so i clamped the good one in and did a few stroke cycles on the bad piston, then i notice the slider pin on the bottom was not moving. Took it apart and discovered it was hydraulically locked by the grease in the pin hole. Flushed out some of the grease from the hole and got full slide movement. test drive had no lights come on......hopefully this is the fix.

Too much grease in the slider holes prevent the pin and caliper from moving!!!!! Unequal pressure trips the system...

[steve_c]

Tystik,
Very interesting findings, please keep us posted on this fix!
I have the same issue, and I do load up my caliper slide pins with grease (especially the lower one).
You have me wondering if this could be an issue. I hope you are on to something here!

[Tystik68]

Lights have not come on today despite my best efforts, they used to always come on.........looking good, and braking is much better

[Tystik68]

Its a fix!!!

[paperboy0617]

I just changed my front left wheel bearing now my VDC,ABS, SLIP and AWD lights are on anybody have any answers?

[EdBwoy]

I just changed my front left wheel bearing...

What brand/ part number of wheel bearing did you use? Ensure it matches whatever you pulled out, including the clocking for the cutout in the bearing for the ABS sensor to read the speed.

#2 is to ensure you didn't beat up and damage the sensor, depending on what methods you used to remove/install the hub.