So Sunday I had to work all day and after I got off Jerry had mentioned he found a '71 240Z listed in the paper for sale, it was a glimmer of hope after not getting the truck. The only info we had was that it's stick,runs and needs TLC and the guy wanted 1600 for it. So we decided to go check it out. Was Sunday night when we looked at it and instantly loved it. It's green and has fenderflares and a front lip. Also on the car is set of old school mesh wheels and some go fast parts. The interior is mint with black diamond stitched leather seats and panels and taillight and rear bumper inside. Got to pop the hood and we find dual Weiand carbs, a electric fuel pump. The engine bay at one time was painted black and the other bits of the motor were painted green to match the car. Alls was left was us to hear it. Guy finally shows up around 10ish and he hops in it and starts right up. As its running you can hear it lobing like it has a crazy cam in it. WIN so we work a deal and end up picking it up for 1400.



Buffing the the hood, roof and rear hatch...they were heavily faded

(Left) After and (Right) before the buff and wax

Meshies with some old school Radial T/A's

Needs some work and has some rust

Original wheel...interior is MINT

Black leather diamond stitched seats

Before the buff

Hood finished

Installing the RR taillight

Built L-series, cam and we think the bottom end is built too

Dual carbs

Jerry finished up and took some pics of the cars



It's a lot quicker then Jerry's L28

WOOT I'm offically a Z guy.

Anywho I just figured I'd share with everyone my craZy car involved weekend.

congrats,looks like you still have a smog pump, you gotta toss that thing someone got happy with wire looming and spray paint ick

aftermarket diamond stitched seats and moulded fibergalss flares are pimp

the engine looks to be pretty stock aside from the air cleaners, and fun with looming, what is the block and head castings, look on the head between the spark plugs for #1 and #2 and look as the base of the bloc in front of and below the driver side engine mount, should have an E31 head on an E30 block

and your series 2 chassis shoud be about 400 lbs lighter than his 280Z

pans and rails solid?

looks like at one time that was a very loved Z, as I'm sure it is again...nice buy, lucky bastage

I'm glad we found it bro. Can't wait to work on it some more

evildky wrote:congrats,looks like you still have a smog pump, you gotta toss that thing someone got happy with wire looming and spray paint ick

aftermarket diamond stitched seats and moulded fibergalss flares are pimp

the engine looks to be pretty stock aside from the air cleaners, and fun with looming, what is the block and head castings, look on the head between the spark plugs for #1 and #2 and look as the base of the bloc in front of and below the driver side engine mount, should have an E31 head on an E30 block

and your series 2 chassis shoud be about 400 lbs lighter than his 280Z

pans and rails solid?

Will eliminate the smog pump ASAP...what is the smog pump exactly?.. . The engine appears stock but it runs like it possibly has a cam in it, maybe it's just the carbs out of sync...??? I wasn't aware they could come with dual carbs from the factory. I'll check on the block and head castings tomorrow when I'm working on it. The pan on the driver side has a little rot but will be replaced soon. The rails are solid. It's an all around clean car for the age. Thanks for the infomation.

Evil to answer your question I only found one # and it was on the head. It said E88....I was off of work today and decided to spend the day with my s30. I got the title transfered, plates done (registered up some 1971 Ohio plates), and then headed out to Jerry's house to tackle the drivability issue we encountered last night. Started poking around, found that if vacuum wasn't blocked off from the factory FPR that the car would die out. Also found that idle bounced all over the f'ing place from 1000 to 3500 rpms so that had to be addressed as well. The car ran rich as can be and dumped moist fuel filled exhaust. Also, one of the heater core lines gave up the ghost and pissed out rusty coolant all over the place. So anywho we got the idle somewhat straightened out by cleaning everything up, picked up a Mr. Gasket adjustable inline FPR to bring down the flow of the electric fuel pump on the car, and looped the coolant line to eliminate the heater core. Not too shabby. So then I took the car out for some joyriding. Let me say, this is one seriously pissed off car, the idle is absolutely nuts and she throws fireballs $1400 bucks you say? WIN

Going to sand the wheels down and paint the centers black and attempt to polish up the lips some until I can pick up some watanabes

Dash and such...needs a little TLC but quite solid





Got rid of the hideous blue wire loom shortly after taking this picture as we added some wire seperators and a fuel pressure regulator



Sporting a set of original 1971 Ohio plates on it that I got from Jerry. Old school ftw





The carnage. Rusty coolant sprayed all over the place. Much better with it just looped off now though. Anybody notice the redneck battery tie down?

More to come.......

RADIATOR FLUSH!!!

Also, they ALL had dual Solex carbs (except for the ones with triple Mikunis).

LOVE the flares - She needs some lowering and some TLC, and get the carbs synched / tuned.

all 70-74 were dual su carb's, there are 3 variants, with the early roundtops that you have being the most deisrable

there should be no fpr, you might be looking at the fast idle dashpot that mounts kinda on top of the fuel lines

the su's are amazingly simple, the mechanical pump pumps fuel into the remove fuel bowls located ont he side of each carb, they have a very basis float and needle valve, in the bottom of the fuel bowls there is an outlet nipple, these can get clogged, just open them up and clean them out, the fuel line runs form the bottom of the fuel bowl to the bottom of the carba nd actually runs strait to the fuel jet, it has a thumbscrew on it taht you turn the jet seat up and down to richen or lean out the carbs, vacume actually draws the piston up which pulls the needle out fo the jet and allowing fuel to four into the imcoming air, sounds bad but works amazingly well

cliff notes: if it's rich, reach under each carb and turn the thumbscrew up into the carb, this closes the jet on the needle

that e88 head is from a 72-73, has the same small valves found in the e31 but larger combustion chamber for lower compression ratio, the n42 head adds a touch mroe volume but gets you larger valves

thats the thing I miss aobut n/a, the turbo l6 sounds good but the n/a sounds better

and I just noticed in your pic's looks like a series one master cylinder!? take a look at your master cylinder and see which resivoir goes to the front brakes, on a late series 2 chassis it should be the rear resivior which should be larger, but someone might have simply put the resivoirs on backwards

when getting parts the production number in your vin is more important then the production date, you'res should read something north of 14000, so when getting parts ask for a 72, datsun didn't make a clean brake when the updated and makes getting aprts 30 years later a pita

If I remember correctly from when we were chasing cracked lines and such....it has an E88 casting on the head. Could be wrong though as we didn't check any coding or clean anything up.

Yeah I'll do a flush on it soon as I get it home, and you know it'll get lowered and tuned Greg. It'll eventually get some black wats on it and the rest of the trim (bumpers, spoiler...etc) will be black also. It's such a bitchin' car.

Finally got her home....ran pig rich all the way home. I'll have to adjust the carbs like you mentioned dky. Other then that, she's good for now. Now with it having the E88 head is that necessarily a bad thing?

not a bad thing, but the e31 has a smaller combustin chamber for higher compression, but the n42 has larger valves and the same comstion chamber, the popular setup is an f54 flat top block with n42 head, but I've seen a stock 2.4 with e31 and worked over su's put 150 hp to the wheels

Cool. I don't know if I want to make it crazy fast but I wouldn't mind a couple bolt ons.

header and full mandrel bent exhaust are cheap for the s30 as well

I was thinking of the MSA header and exhaust for it and eventually some triple webers.

tripples are hawt, and easier to make p[ower with thean the su's, just kinda hard to come by without breaking the bank, if you keep you're eyes open you can pick up a set for about $500, but they are more difficult to tune, and from my experience the su's offer more down low grunt but the webbers really seem to scream up top

and I've had the msa header and exhaust, real bargain for the price, if you got the extra coin the ceramic coated looks a lot better

I know I'll be sticking with the SU's for a while, but maybe eventually get some webers. Cool I'll definitely have to pick up the MSA stuff then.

Nice Find!!

yeah best bang for the buck

nice find, good price too. good luck with her.