Tried to start the RB25 today: A few questions

[accel junky]

I tried to start the RB25 again today. I got it to idle very roughly with NO fuel pump fuse in. And then when I put the fuel pump fuse in the motor shut off, even with me holding the throttle open. The Power FC Commander said "19 degrees timing, 1.8% duty cycle (PE 550cc injectors), 5XXmv airflow (q45)".

I tested my Fuel Pressure gauge which is inline between the fuel filter and the rail. It doesnt do anything when the pump primes or the car starts, but when I hooked it to my bike pump I easily got the pressure up to 40psi.

Fuel pump (Walbro 255lph) definitely sends fuel as I unhooked the line and fuel shot out of the fuel filter when it primed (key to on position).

Nismo FPR was adjusted in both directions with no effect.

I am completely confused as the engine seems to be getting TONS of fuel yet the FP gauge reads nothing and the motor idles VERY roughly with the fuel pump fuse removed.

CAS works, as I turned it and heard all the injectors clicking. I have tested all coilpacks and I i have spark on all cylinders.

I just bought stock injectors and I plan on trying them with the stock FPR and stock ECU to see if that makes a difference.

I need help, I'm about to give up on this d*mn motor.

[USMCgetsome]

HOLY CRAP MAN IT'S BAD REALLY BAD. that means that your fuel rail is leaking right into the damn block. I have solved both our problems. Pull your fuel rail then unhook the feed and fpr return line. Now with the rail in an area of the engine bay that you can see the bottom of the fuel injector in the rail you need to put back on the feed and return lines and apply fuel pressure. You will automatically see that there is an A$$ load of fuel pouring out of some of the injectors.

KEEP IN MIND DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK THIS IS A TRIAL PERIOD WITH THESE O-RINGS THAT I MATCHED UP. I hope that they stay in good condition and do not detiorate. I checked the specs on them and they seem fine.

I found some o-rings in the plumbing section of LOWES and guess what they work great. I replaced all 6 lower o-rings in the fuel rail and they held pressure and there is no leaking. Here is the info for the o-rings.

#83 o-ring and they came in a pack of 10 the lowes serial number is 198954 and only cost $1.27

Now i just ran the car and i need to tune it because it's back firing but i'm looking directly at the fuel pressure meter and it's a SOLID 38psi at idle and also i've seen it hold when i hit the throttle from inside of the engine bay at over 60psi. Tomorrow i'm gonna fix the timing and that should be it.

Keep in mind when installing the o-rings to use a heavy solid grease like vaseline or something of that nature and lube the bottom end of the fuel rail and the o-ring and they slide right in.

Now i know some people are going to have a problem with this but hey man i'm sure this should solve you problem. Your having the exact same problem that i'm having.

any other questions email me at [email protected]/ yahoo mesenger sn is usmcgetsome i'll even give you my cell number to guide you along if needed.

[accel junky]

So basically just bad o-rings? Maybe I installed the injectors into the fuel rail wrong.

For some reason I thought that the o-rings went down near the tip of the injector, at least thats what the stockers looked like.

Can you explain a little better? I'm not sure I'm follwing entirely well (and my car is at home so I cant go take a look).

Thanks for the help so far.

-Daniel

[b16_madman]

Daniel, I think you found a new friend in TX. Awesome to finally find someone that has had similar trouble. I'll help as much as possible as always. Gotta worry with grades #1 though.

Hopefully we can get this beast running without taking it somewhere. After that accomplishment, you can be dam proud of it.

Yes I joined Nico to add in my .02 cents.

[goofynick6]

You can do a boost leak test, and if the injectors aren't sealing to the head properly then you'll find out then; I did it when swapping injectors and had a large leak causing bad idle. Check them all out.

Nick

[accel junky]

How do I do that? (forgive my stupidity but a little unclear as my motor barely even idles for a minute)

[USMCgetsome]

yes you are correct right above the pintle caps. You need to lube the bottom of the fuel rail and the o-ring. I don't know how else to explain it.

[accel junky]

I'm going to order some seals, any idea if the 300zx TT (95-96) ones will work? Supposedly they are the same injectors.

[JonPowell]

The SR20 has interchangable injectors...try a Sentra SE-R, mid 90's maybe...

[accel junky]

I'll try that. Anybody else have a surefire solution? Its gonna cost $25 to get all the seal kits so I want to get it right the first time.

[USMCgetsome]

yo man just try the quick tip i gave you. My fuel rail is holding pressure and keeps it steady. No leaks and i'm gonna have to say that these o-rings are proven. So i think your gonna have a harder time with the 300zx o-rings so i'm still suggesting that you go to lowes and get those o-rings. Hell man this is the 1st time that i've driven my 240 in 9 months because of these issues and it's all said and done because of some o-rings that cost me $1.23 at lowes.

[accel junky]

yo man just try the quick tip i gave you. My fuel rail is holding pressure and keeps it steady. No leaks and i'm gonna have to say that these o-rings are proven. So i think your gonna have a harder time with the 300zx o-rings so i'm still suggesting that you go to lowes and get those o-rings. Hell man this is the 1st time that i've driven my 240 in 9 months because of these issues and it's all said and done because of some o-rings that cost me $1.23 at lowes.

Did they have a large supply? I'm just worried about going home this weekend and lowes being out or something.

[USMCgetsome]

nah man they had plenty and they come 10 in a box. It's working out great for me. I've had no problems and i jumped on it today and whoooo hooo i ate a 3000gt vr4 on the highway stock boost but i think he just gave up... but it was fun as hell. So just keep in mind i've had all kind of problems sealing up those leaks in the rail and viola it's done with some small insignificant $1.23 parts.

[accel junky]

Sweet, I will hopefully take care of that this weekend then. I'll post back with results.

Thanks a ton!!

[b16_madman]

Good luck Dan. definately major props for you enduring.

[driftjunke]

Have you checked all of your wiring, it sounds like you fuel pump might be grounding itself out when you put the fuse in. It shouldn't get any fuel at all with the fuse out.

Eric

[b16_madman]

Well I'll update since he's a slackard.

Popped off the fuel rail, hooked it up to the fuel pump, yes, we are dumb, but it let us know how the heck the motor was being flooded with fuel. It poured out like a hose, not holding pressure obviously.

Slapped on an extra layer of seals like the guy mentioned above higher up on the injectors, and had the ones on the tips also. After that was done, bam, fuel pressure and after re-installed, it turned over like a champ, no smoke or nothin.

Won't idle, dies when you give it throttle. I know honda's so the MAF is foreign to me, but I think the timing needs some help and something else that I don't know of, the MAF?

I think a dyno tune for a while would get it goin, but he needs his own dyno.

An, good gosh, the apexi power fc does everything, he just needs to learn how to use it. Hopefully the tuners will know how to tune it good w/it.

ok acceljunkie where you at?

[accel junky]

Yeah I posted a new thread with the update.

[goofynick6]

I think the maf is not getting signal to the pfc. Check it with the key on, tap the tester into the wire coming from the maf and check the voltage, then start car and check it, with it running I think it should be 1.1V at idle out of the signal "out" wire from the maf. If that isn't present, then you have a short or bad connection/wrong connection to the maf.

Nick