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[mikegtr06]

... and failed after like an hour. so i wanna change out the speakers in my non bose a/c i found these.... i still have the factory headunit and just want something thats clearer and will sound better..

i like these for the 6x9http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-GTO937...A1318

and these for the 6.5http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-GTO527...A1318

will those work... does anyone have any better suggestions ? i know that those are "budget friendly" but the specs are awesome for the price and i have always trusted jbl in the past.

so what do you think ?

oh and on the non bose i still have the 3.5 speakers in the dash. what should i do with those ?

thanks for all the help.

[mikegtr06]

bump for help....

[rjdmmfl1]

Mike, its all about efficiency! Those 6x9's can handle 100 watts RMS, with a range probably from 20-100 watts. Unfortunately, your factory non Bose deck is probably doing about 10-15 watts RMS max.. thus, you will run the risk of overheating your deck and possibly ruining your deck running those 6x9's. The front 6.5's shouldn't be a problem in that those are only 45 watts RMS, with a working range of probably about 10-45 watts RMS.

The problem with the factory non bose system is with BOTH the deck and the speakers, not just the speakers! You would actually get a better response SQ wise by replacing the factory deck as opposed to replacing the speakers!

BUt again, to answer your original question, the front may be OK, but the rear may be problematic... oh yeah, I forgot about the impedence. I'm not sure if the factory speakers are 2 ohm or 4 ohm. I'll check in my wife's car when I get a moment!

[AppleBonker]

oh yeah, I forgot about the impedence. I'm not sure if the factory speakers are 2 ohm or 4 ohm. I'll check in my wife's car when I get a moment!

Doc's right on. Pretty sure the speakers are 2 ohm, but I could be mistaken. Verification is probably a good idea. If they are 2 ohm, it'll be more of a problem running 4 ohm speakers cause the stock deck likely wont put out as much power to 4 ohms as it does to 2.

[mikegtr06]

so still not sure about the resistance on the factory speakers but on crutchfields web site they show the GTO937 as rms being 2-100 watts and 2 ohms....

6"x9" 3-way speakers (pair)Plus One polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surroundMy-Ti™ (mylar/titanium) dome tweeter with level control and supertweeter2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)power range: 2-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)frequency response: 50-21,000 Hzsensitivity: 94 dBtop-mount depth: 3"warranty: 1 year

and the 5.255-1/4" 2-way speakers (pair)Plus One polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surroundMy-Ti™ (mylar/titanium) dome tweeter with level controlUniPoint™ tweeter pivots for improved imaging2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)power range: 2-45 watts RMS (135 watts peak power)frequency response: 70-21,000 Hzsensitivity: 91 dBtop-mount depth: 2-5/16"warranty: 1 year

so those should be ok right ??

[AppleBonker]

Well, I'm not sure why Crutchfield would say that a 2-ohm driver is compatible with all aftermarket and factory head units (a 2-ohm load could easily damage a number of products that aren't rated for it).

Assuming the factory speakers are 2-ohm, those would be ok. However, I would highly recommend going with something like the GTO607C for up front (install the tweets in the dash and the mids in the doors). For whatever reason, crutchfield says this will not fit the front doors. I'm still trying to figure out why they don't think a 6.5" driver will fit up there (I and a number of others have had no problems with this).

[rjdmmfl1]

so still not sure about the resistance on the factory speakers but on crutchfields web site they show the GTO937 as rms being 2-100 watts and 2 ohms....

6"x9" 3-way speakers (pair)Plus One polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surroundMy-Ti™ (mylar/titanium) dome tweeter with level control and supertweeter2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)power range: 2-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)frequency response: 50-21,000 Hzsensitivity: 94 dBtop-mount depth: 3"warranty: 1 year

and the 5.255-1/4" 2-way speakers (pair)Plus One polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surroundMy-Ti™ (mylar/titanium) dome tweeter with level controlUniPoint™ tweeter pivots for improved imaging2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)power range: 2-45 watts RMS (135 watts peak power)frequency response: 70-21,000 Hzsensitivity: 91 dBtop-mount depth: 2-5/16"warranty: 1 year

so those should be ok right ??

based on this, then yes, you should be ok... I saw go for it, especially at this price.. but I still hold to the belief that you will get much more out of your system by repolacing the factory deck.. it reall is the rate limiting step in the music equation! (I know, I'm a nerd)

[mikegtr06]

i know that replacing the deck will help more, but imk on a budget and these speakers would be an upgrade that i would do anyway so if i can do them now and get that out of the way.....

[mikegtr06]

However, I would highly recommend going with something like the GTO607C for up front (install the tweets in the dash and the mids in the doors). For whatever reason, crutchfield says this will not fit the front doors. I'm still trying to figure out why they don't think a 6.5" driver will fit up there (I and a number of others have had no problems with this).

what kind of plate would have to me made and to remove the dash speaker grills would i have to take the hole car apart or do the grills just pop off ?

[AppleBonker]

what kind of plate would have to me made and to remove the dash speaker grills would i have to take the hole car apart or do the grills just pop off ?

Getting the grilles off takes some time, but it's relatively easy. You have to take off the A Pillar finishers (which requires removing the door welt - the rubber type seal that surrounds the door opening to seal the door to the car when it's closed). Don't worry, doing this is quite easy and goes back together just as easily (I've done it numerous times to my car).

To mount the speakers, I used a piece of either 1/4" or 1/8" thick hardboard. Pretty easy to cut one out and then cut an opening for the tweeter. Then I mounted the tweet to the hardboard and installed the whole thing using the OEM screws.

This will give you an idea: