Tricky wiring question

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BoyWonder
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Car: '93 Nissan 240SX S13 Convertible (reclaimed... wootles)
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Just finished up my auto to manual on the convert, drives great, but the top doesn't want to go down. I've read through the FSM for a 93 non-vert, and talked to Bart (fellow Manual vert owner) but we can't seem to figure out why it still doesn't want to go down. I know the inhibitor needs to be tricked into thinking the car is always in park for the top to go down, and I was pretty sure from reading the manual that it is, but the top remains up. I know the top went down prior to this swap, by the way. There are a 3 plugs in the engine bay behind the fuse box without there former auto trans counterparts, as well as 2 plugs in the passenger compartment that went to the auto shifter. I have a feeling some combination of them needs to be set up, but don't know what that is.

Any help is much appriciated!


BoyWonder
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Nothing? :(

BoyWonder
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Tested out the inhibitor relay, looks ok. I'll post more as testing is done.

brite
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Hi, I have the convert service manual but it does not give great detail of the wiring and I don't know if this is of any help but you never know.Page C2 says, word for word...Power is directed from the inhibitor switch through the TOP DOWN switch then to the "top down" relay coil portion of the top stack logic relay.

Power is directed from the folding top logic relay rear jumper harness connector, at the body harness connector, to the diode arry which diercts power to the quarter window down relays thus operating both quarter window regulator motors downward.

page 20-10.. shows the main body harness layoutLooks like the "Doide relay" is behind the back seat (from the driver seat looking at the relays it looks like the sixth from the right almost in the center of the car and is wired directly into the (folding top relay). All other relays go into a common harness. I don't have a scanner but could fax you the page if you want.

I will also see if the OEM shop manual has anything.Good luck

BoyWonder
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Edit: Thought this over some more, and I think I was just confused in what I posted last. Here is what I remember the stock vert wiring to look like (mad paint skills activate!).

Like it says, not sure where that power comes from. When in park, the auto tran allows power to run through the relay and activate the selonoid. That opens the circuit to the ASCD and closes the power to the top stack. Someone can correct my picture if I am wrong or missed somethingI think, for some reason, power isn't getting to the top stack. Here is my first idea to fix this:

Here is my second idea..



Think either one would work? I need feedback before I go home and try these. Of course the chances of this diagram being wrong are high, so I think I may have to revise it once I have it in front of me again. I'm not an eletrically inclined person, so I could use a second or third opinion on this.

brite
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I have the wiring circuit that shows what you looking at but I'm not sure exactly how to read the diagram. I think the part is called the " ASCD Hold relay" but it also shows " Inhibitor relay" and a " ASCD cancel switch" I think the numbers beside them is the wiring colors. Again if you have a fax I will go and make some xerox copies and send them to you.Cheers

brite
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Still looking at the manual for you. I found a page EL-86 and I'm sure your local dealer would let you look at their book.Inhibitor switch for A/T models.shift lever positionsPark = terminal 3 connected to terminal 4Neutral = terminal 3 connected to terminal 6

Looking at the inhibitor switch3 is top left4 is below 36 is Two spaces to the right from 6 I'm thinking then if this is correct and the car needs to be in park to operate the top. What if you put a jumper across 3 to 6 would the car not always think its in park?

Can you place a voltage meter across 3 and 6 to read ohms and press the switch that tells the car its in neutral to see if you get a complete circuit. If yes press the down top switch.

Remember I'm no expert either but I'm trying to help.

As another thought, if this did work out then at any time the top could be raised or lowered, maybe as safety run the jumper or the original wiring through a switch so that it has to be flicked or someone could attempt to move the top while driving and you certainly don't want the top flying off at 80MPH. $$$$Cheers.

BoyWonder
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brite wrote:Park = terminal 3 connected to terminal 4Neutral = terminal 3 connected to terminal 6

Looking at the inhibitor switch3 is top left4 is below 36 is Two spaces to the right from 6
The last part there, 6 is 2 spaces to the right from 6 - did you mean from 3 or 4? Think you could draw this up in paint or something?

BoyWonder
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I reread the wiring diagram, and I was off. I do have a few things to check out (thank goodness my dad was an electrical engineer at some point) so I'll look into some of those and see what happens.

Bigrolla
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all i can say is better up than down to get stuck

BoyWonder
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True...

brite
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sorry about the mistake,6 is Two spaces right from 4

I'm not sure if the drawing comes out at your end if not I call email you directly to an email address,My email is,[email protected]Name is Tom.

brite
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If your dad is an electrician he may be able to read through the wiring circuits.With you saying ASCD I hope we are not looking at the cruise control switch.

BoyWonder
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Well, problem solved. Yes, my dad gave me a procedure to go through as to what to check out and in what order. I feel like an idiot..Let's just say it was a fuse.. The 10 amp one I didn't know was part of the top going down (and I could have swore I checked all fuses) was blown. Changed out, first try, top went down. Thanks for all the assistance! Just glad this problem that took several days to troubleshoot is solved.


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