Transmission swap/Engine removal

[dfeller]

Hey guys, I'm just starting the process of swapping an auto to manual transmission in my 1992 TT. Whats the best route to take, dropping the trans or pulling the engine and trans at the same time? I'd like to do a rear oil seal while the trans is out as well and maybe some other preventative MX. Thanks!

[NolimitZ32]

You can do it either way, I prefer dropping the trans by itself but its really up to you, The biggest pain with dropping the trans is getting to the top 2 bell housing bolts.

[ca18det_boy]

You can do it either way, I prefer dropping the trans by itself but its really up to you, The biggest pain with dropping the trans is getting to the top 2 bell housing bolts.

What he said. KISS. No point in pulling out everything if you don't have to.

[DCaff300ZX]

These guys know their Isht so this isn't an argument of their advise, but in your case (A/T to M/T swap) there are advantages to having both units out of the car...precious space to add the M/T clutch components necessary. The slave cylinder and adding the clutch booster take room to work and although possible with all in place, certainly gets easier with them out. Servicing the trans and other maintenance items also becomes easier, all at the extra cost of the full removal process plus re-install.
Your choice as mentioned, but probably "easier" to do both out instead of just the trans unless you have worked on your Z already deeply, and know a few tricks and work-around's. Those top 2 bolts are a real B@#CH from what I've read from a few tech posts, and space to maneuver things is tough unless you have the car up in the air quite a bit more than just jacking (1.e. jackstands all 4 corners).
Hope we all helped!

[dfeller]

Thanks fellas, maybe I'll just pull it to get that extra room. This is my first endeavor on the 300zx. I've done 280z engine pulls but this is more difficult just by the way it's crammed in there. I may be on here a bit more for further questions, I'll be doing some hp mods soon as well.

[NolimitZ32]

From experience I would say you are better off pulling the trans first out the bottom and then pulling the engine out the top. Screwing with a leveler is a huge PITA and in my multiple pulls (I've honestly lost count) I have found it MUUUUUCH easier to swing the engine without the trans in and out of the car. Just make sure that your jack stands are tall enough before you start, It sucks getting the trans out and laying on a jack, yes you will need a floor jack to lower the trans unless you yourself are jacked (pun intended) only to find out that the car is too low and you can get the trans out from under the car.

[DCaff300ZX]

From experience I would say you are better off pulling the trans first out the bottom and then pulling the engine out the top. Screwing with a leveler is a huge PITA and in my multiple pulls (I've honestly lost count) I have found it MUUUUUCH easier to swing the engine without the trans in and out of the car. Just make sure that your jack stands are tall enough before you start, It sucks getting the trans out and laying on a jack, yes you will need a floor jack to lower the trans unless you yourself are jacked (pun intended) only to find out that the car is too low and you can get the trans out from under the car.

Great stuff NoLimit...PO, this is what I meant about precious space and knowledge of having worked deeply on Z32's before. As you noticed and mentioned, working under the hood in a Z32 is a really, REALLY frustrating and complicated, body-ache-inducing job that benefits from ANYTHING that clears up the mess and/or makes room to work and see what you are doing much less do it, and finding out too late that you have a major issue can be a real crusher.
Another thought is to be SURE you have everything you need for the job, and as you mentioned DO consider any other maintenance that can be done while you are there since obviously a repeat visit won't be fun.
Good Luck!

[Ace2cool]

Do all the deletes. All of them. Most emissions testing places don't know what to look for with EGR so don't worry about that. My first plenum pull was about 3 hours. I just pulled it for my engine pull and it took literally 20 mins because of the EGR and coolant line deletes.

Also way, WAY easier to pull the trans first, then the engine if you're working on stands. Unless you've got access to a 4 post lift, in which case set the subframe and trans on jack stands, then lift the body off both units at once. (be careful about the alternator harness and a few lines if you go this route.