Thee 240sx Owner wrote:where did you assume this from... ever looked at the input shaft on a transmission... theres a tip on it.. and yes it does get replaced when you do your clutch.. it is there to hold the input shaft straight... why do you think when you do an auto to manual swap you have to change out that bushing... because the size is different..
as for your noise your hearing man.. thats definately a Throwout bearing issue.. replace it soon and if your going to do it yourself or have a shop do it.. get the flywheel resurfaced if possible... (about $50 bucks) and get a new clutch (about 120, that comes with everything... ToB, pilot bushing, pressure plate, clutch.. and alignment tool.. and its easy to do it yourself)
There is a small tip at the end of the transmission input shaft, but after measuring with a caliper, the tip is not even deep enough to come into contact with the new pilot bushing.Of all the clutch jobs I've done on the KA I worked on, before I pull the pilot bushing out, I always measure its' height and thickness and compare it with the new, and found no contact wear of whatsoever kind.Thus I can conclude that what keeping the input shaft straight is not the pilot bushing, instead, it's the bearings inside the transmission and the surfaces where the bearings are seated.
I'm not making an inference here.Besides, the pilot bushing is made out of brass (very soft metal), how long do you think it will be able to hold an input shaft straight? Considering the heat produced in the clutch area along with all the flying clutch dust andf other contaminants in the area collected by the grease lubing it, not too long.
So, how come the bushing is included in the clutch kit? Whoever the person tearing it down first to figure out what should be in the kit could've thought that it's a wear item, and as usual, everybody else copy after that person's findings.
I'm on my 2nd block, it came off an AT car, W/O pilot bushing, and I just installed it that way (allign clutch disc w/ marker), no problem whatsoever. There is bearing noise from the transmission, but those noise has been there even before a clogged oil sump killed the 1st engine. And the TOB came out fine after inspection.
BTW, interesting info on the AT to MT swap thing, redundant but interesting nonetheless. I've only work on MT cars so far.
On the other hand, a blown TOB will give you a hard time shifting into all gears.
Also, resurfacing a flywheel is a wasted effort unless if the flywheel's unevenness is too far from tolerance or there is rust on the mating surface. The machine used to resurface flywheel also come with their own tolerances, making it impossible to get a 100% straight and evenly thick flywheel. So I'd suggest reconditioning the flywheel by use of roloc discs instead. Several light even passes is all it needs, just to clean it up, and get any heat discoloration off. And then there is the machining operator tolerance factor.A clutch disc is never 100% evenly padded. It's always off by several thousands. Call it manufacturing tolerance.
So, how can you say it's definitely a TOB issue if you're in Orlando, Florida, while he's in Vancouver, BC? Did he send you the TOB? Were you even there tearing apart his car?
Edit: my transmission is still the original transmission off the dealership, abused for 12 years, periodically has it's fluid changed, sticky into first and reverse, but no grinds into or out-of any gears.