transmission Parts List w/Pic

[Li'l Truckie]

Okay, finally got around to working on this project. Let me know what you think as this is still in DRAFT form. Once this gets a little more presentable we'll forward to the AZHitman and see if we can add this to the Datsun 320 reference library.

I will work on this tomorrow some and take a couple of 3/4 view pics and change over to landscape. But for now the information/parts numbers are correct as I have personally verified/purchased and installed each one.

I also have the rebuilt E1 on the engine dolly so we will do the same for the engine gaskets and seals



Would appreciate your feed back in making this into a final pdf sheet to add to our manuals.

v/r
Li'l Truckie

[Gemmer]

Truckie,
This is absolutely stellar !! I don't think you need to change a thing.
Thank you for all your work.
Gemmer

[difrangia]

Truckie,
This is top-shelf. You're an asset to the forum and the endeavor to keep these historic machines usable and enjoyable. You will not accept defeat, follow leads and info to the ends of the earth, and exhibit that good-ol'-boy persona and help anyone who is in need. I'm proud to be on here with you. Keep-On-Trukin.

Steve

[Gemmer]

I fear I know the answer to my question already, but here goes. Been driving around now for a couple of weeks. The transmission leaks at the side seals and rear driveshaft seal, thought I could put up with it but drives me nuts. So, can I take the floorboard panel out and change the seals without pulling the engine?

[Li'l Truckie]

Well yes you can! Or at least it more than do-able.
Let me walk through this

-Need to disconnect the forward and reverse linkage, easy enough.

-Next to to remove the cross shaft linkage arms.
The hard part is getting those lock pins out of the arms so you can pull them off and then un-bolt the side plate. Even harder with confined space you are dealing with. I'm up for any ideas on how to press them out after 50+ years in place. I've used a C-clap, a ball joint splitter, I've place a nut into 7/16 socket with an extension, used a big sledge with a flat punch, mucsle, and sometimes stupidity. Success rate is about 50-50. Trick is to just break them free, so I unthreaded the nut and slid on a couple more washer to keep the lock pin from bending under pressure. Once the siezed pin is free, unthread the nut and punch the lock pin out with a light tap. If you can get the lock pins out you will have no issues with the rest. I think you will want to remove the forward linkage arm and pin first. Again, this is going to be a tight fit trying to get something in there to remove those pins.

-If you are success at removing the lock pins, then at this time I would drain the transmission gear oil. You might change you mind about this task if you cannot get those pins out, so no need in draining the oil as step 1 prep.

-Next remove the side plate cover bolts and side plate. Due to the confined space I do not think the forward and reverse cross shaft will come out. But you should be able to slide the cover off.

- Remove felt O-rings and inner seal. Thoroughly clean and clean again, and maybe one more time the access cover before putting in your new seals. I used a socket with extension to press in the seal.

-At the same time wipe down the outer edge of the access cover lip on the transmission.

-At this time your are ready to replace access cover, with new cross-shaft seal installed, back onto the transmission.

If the felt O-Rings are "okay" then go ahead and re-use them. If not, grab plenty of towels and fill the void with gasket sealer. Let sealant dry, thoroughly dry, before putting the linkage arms back on.

Lastly is to just hook the linkage back up.

Again, the hardest part is getting out those lock pins, which are nearly impossible to source.

Let me know if you have any question or need any pics. I have a side/column shift transmission in a container in the basement that's easy to get too, err. rather trip over.

v/r
Andy

[Gemmer]

Truckie,
Thanks, I was hopeful this could be done. Will saturate the lock pins with "PB Blaster" before I tackle them. Haven't looked closely at the floorboard panel. Can I get that out without removing the heater? The felt O-Rings are long gone. Was thinking of making new ones. Gasket sealer sounds like a viable alternative.
How hard is it to dig out the seal at the driveshaft? I was thinking of useing a piece of PVC to seat the new seal.

[Li'l Truckie]

Gemmer,

transmission comes out pretty easy. Just have to undo all of the 7/16 inch bolts that hold it down and pry it off. Heater box can stay in place. The PIB piece is the OE insulation with rubber trim attached to the fire wall. Need to be careful as this will easily tear. I used a putty knife to get under the insulation and trim to lift it off the back/top of the transmission cover.

Rear output shaft seal - I have had no issues with my child laborer (son). He has replace 3 seals and not a one has started leaking. If you chose to replace this without draining the transmission gear oil, just need to jack up the rear axle so the oil doesn't come pouring out the extension. I again smeared gasket sealant around the inside before using a 1 1/8 socket to tap the new seal into place. If you decide to replace the U-Joint, Precision 391 is the part number. My child laborer did these too.

v/r
Andy

[Li'l Truckie]

NEW and Improved! 10% new part number listing! (Insert your favorite sales pitch here)

Here is it 320 Fans,

The updated parts, gaskets, and seals listing for the 320 column shift transmission. I'm still working some of the Moss Motors parts numbers, but their parts listing is a little more thorough as they include more items for both the early and late 4-speed MGA transmission and I am not too familiar with the differences in the two. So there are a few MM part numbers are listed. Rest assured, all Victoria British parts numbers have been verified, purchased, and/or installed in one of the four transmission I sealed up to look factory fresh.

As always let me know if you have any questions. transmission is still out and readily accessible. This is also the last column shift I have to rebuild, so once it goes back in, I do not plan to take it out. The Datsun parts studio only takes a matter of minutes to set up for any semi-professional picture.


PM me if you would like the below pic in a 8 1/2 x 11 pdf for your manual(s) - digital or hard copy.

Li'l Truckie