Post by
MinisterofDOOM »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/ministerofdoom-u16506.html
Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:53 pm
I've been having some interesting transmission problems, essentially identical to those that subzero car fanatic has posted about recently as well. I thought it might be good to start a thread about what we know to help anyone else who has these issues out. And of course input from you all would be much appreciated. This is going to be long, as there are quite a few details and I'd like to be specific for everyone's benefit.
This is on my 1995 Q45t.
The problem:==The transmission will intermittently slip into third and only third. It COULD be "limp mode" but I'm not entirely sure, due to other symptoms (keep reading).==While stuck in third, a rhythmic clicking comes from the vicinity of the transmission. It is not audible in the engine bay. I've tried to record a clip but none of my recording equipment is high enough quality to sort out the click from the rest of the natural noise the car makes. The sound varies in volume and intensity depending on gear selection (in P, R, or N it is quieter, and in forward gears it is louder and sharper). When the transmission is operating correctly, this noise is not present.==Also while "broken" the transmission will "pulse" brake while OFF the throttle. So if you're coasting, for instance, down hill the car will engage and disengage (I assume between neutral and 3rd), causing the car to engine brake and freely coast cyclically. ANY amount of throttle engages 3rd and stops this. Shifting into Neutral also stops the trans engaging as one would expect.==The issue SEEMS to be heat-related. It took a lot of observing to find a common thread between instances of malfunction, but it does seem like it only happens when the ambient temp is above ~70-72 Fahrenheit.
What I've checked, tested, fixed, and learned so far:==First move was to run trans self-diagnosis. This came up multiple times (multiple occurrances of the issue) with codes for bad Revolution Sensor (NOT turbine rev sensor) and bad Vehicle Speed Sensor. Occasionally, though, it will show as fine.==I ran FSM-described diagnoses for both, and both checked out fine. Of course, as tends to happen, the car was operating FINE when running the tests. I haven't been able to test voltages while the car is misbehaving (it never ever happens at a convenient time...I need to just keep my DMM in the car).==I then took the car to the dealer, since I figured they'd be able to do more with a Consult than I could with a DMM. I took it to my regular Nissan dealer that has serviced both my and my father's Maximas for years...I know the head tech there and have always been happy with the place. They advised that TPS needed replacing, I had them do so. Wes had mentioned the first time I called him about this that he thought that may be the issue, so I felt relieved the problem was solved. Later, though, I started wondering since I didn't see the TPS causing the clicking noise. My doubts were proven warranted, as the problem occurred once again shortly after retrieving the car after the TPS replacement.==The Nissan dealer told me (when I picked up the car with new TPS) that, even with my "bible-sized" FSM on hand, they were unable to test accurately enough to diagnose the problem. They mentioned something about color codes being different and Infiniti being unhelpful about that. They advised that I take the car to an Infiniti dealer (which I'd probably have done to begin with if the nearest one weren't so far away). I will be doing that tomorrow or as soon as they'll take it.But they also added that their further testing indicated a communication issue between the TCU and ECU. Just FYI, I have the robert 8-way ECU and a stock TCU. I have tried the ECU on multiple programs including stock and the problem occurs regardless of setting.
So, all that out of the way, here's what I wonder now:Could this be caused by a bad (heat-sensitive) TCU? I had the idea today to try putting some ice (in a well-sealed bag) next to the TCU to see if it'd make a difference but didn't have ice on hand in time to try this.Or do you think it's more likely the two suspect sensors (rev and vehicle speed) that are susceptible to heat?Or something else entirely?
As I said, I'll be leaving the car with Infiniti tomorrow, so whatever new info I find out I'll add.