Transmission malfunction and check lights on

[bruce.weiland]

Dennis, Brian, Jesda and Wes,

Toinght I turned on the key and got the "transmission malfunction" for a few seconds, then it goes out.

The yellow "check" light is on, on the engine icon.

Pushing the accelerator past about 40% caused the car to bog down.

Light throttle and the car accelorates slowly and shifts up through the gears, although with a bit firmer shifts.

Turning off the car and restarting did not change anything.

Any guesses?

Thanks

Bruce

[bruce.weiland]

OK, now I am feeling like a hypochondriac. My Q sat overnight. I put in the key this morning and turned it to the on position. The display said “OK”. I started it up, still OK and no “check” light.

I took it for a couple of mile drive and no problems.

Now it may that the Q was feeling nervous and decided it better not act up. I had planned to take the Q to an early morning yard sale to check on some vinyl that was available, but because of last night I took my turboed Solstice.

Well obviously the Q saw me drive away in the two seater. When I came home the Q was on its best behavior, almost.

And this is the part that makes me think I am becoming hypochondriacal. Yesterday I noticed a grinding noise from the front passenger side when braking. Just like metal on metal, but the pads are really think and the front rotors were recently turned.

This morning I only hear the grinding with forceful braking. If I slow more gradually there is no noise.

Wheel bearing?

What do you think?

Also, what was up with my transmission yesterday?I have been driving differently since I put in the NICO ECU. I am driving with Stage II and I have been stirring the gears with the shifter.

Thanks for the feed back and help.

Bruce

[bruce.weiland]

I had added these posts to an old thread with a similar topic.

Wes asked me to start a new thread. Below is an answer from Jesda;

"It sounds a lot like the FPCU when its about to die. When you push the throttle all the way on a failing FPCU, it starts to behave as if it can't handle the extra voltage.I can't say what it is for sure, and you'd have to check your fuel pump/FPCU connector in the trunk to see if it looks burnt on the ground pin.

Got an alligator wire to play with to see if doing an FPCU emergency bypass erases the symptom?"

Jesda

[bruce.weiland]

Jesda,

As you can see from the second post above, the error message and lights corrected after sitting over night.

I will, however, check in the trunk.

Are there other common conditions that could have caused the same error codes?

Any ideas about the right front "brake noise" under heavy braking only?

Thanks,

Bruce

[elwesso]

FPCU? Interesting...

Check and see what caused your trans malfunction light, because whatever caused it its probably the same thing that caused the CEL.. Theres an article on the HOW TO section how to do it.

Let me know what code you got.

[bruce.weiland]

Wes,

I used my new consult interface and two different software programs. They both came back 55, no codes.

I will update you, if/when something else developes.

I still need to pull the trunk/gas tank cover and check the ground on the FPCU that Jesda recommended.

Thanks for the help.

Bruce

[lino]

The yellow "check" light is on, on the engine icon.

I used my new consult interface and two different software programs. They both came back 55, no codes.

Was the check engine light on when you used the consult?

[bruce.weiland]

Lino,

No. The transmission malfunction message and check icon were both on late one night. Turning the car off and restarting twice did not correct the condition of the lights, or the "limp home" throttle condition.

The next morning, when I turn the key to on, everything was normal, including throttle response.

It was the next day I got around to connecting the consult.

Bruce

[elwesso]

Dont use the consult, check it (the transmission) using the article in the articles forum. If the light is coming on, it HAS thrown a code and it WILL be stored somewhere.

[elwesso]

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=217453

let me know what code you get.

[bruce.weiland]

Wes,

Thanks for the link to the proper procedure. Obviously I did not understand what I was to do.

I repeated the procedure 3 times.

1) I followed the procedure, but kept the trip switch turned counter clockwise during the entire time. After several cycles of the larger rectangular light flashing off and (on about 5 sec. for each) a single "C" appeared in the left most character position.

2) same procedure, but I released the tirp switch reset after getting the AT CHECK display - This time after the blinking light I got an "OK" in the middle of the display.

3) same as number 1), but returned an "OK" as in number two.

Does this tell you anything?

Bruce

[elwesso]

You got a code C, which is the link between the ECU and TCU... Possibly caused by turning the car on with the ECU unplugged or something. I would check that the ECU is fully seated on both edges. I had some GOOFY stuff happen to my Q when the edges were not seated fully.

[bruce.weiland]

So, if I understand you correctly, the long connector that attaches to the aft end of the ECU, even though screwed in place, may not be making full, continous contact.

It is getting late and it is dark, so I will check it later.

I have driven for the past two days without and events.

[elwesso]

Yeah, and even occasionally my car would drive fine, and then itd act up... Took me FOREVER to figure it out!

Basically heres what happens, When you screw the harness connector in it will screw it down fast in the middle but may not seat totally on the edges. When you look at the circuit diagram, the most important things are toward the middle and the less important things are on the outer edges... So the engine can seem to run fine even though in truth the edges of the harness connector are not getting a good connection.

[bruce.weiland]

Got it. I will certainly check it tonight when I get home.

Thanks,

Bruce