Transmission flush

[mryzza]

I just go my oil changed and the shop said that my transmission fluid was brown and that I needed a transmission flush.

How should I go about this? How hard is it to flush a transmission and replace the fluid? How much would it cost at a shop?

[Jeff Williams]

It will run about $100.

$75.00 for the fluid flush, and about $25 for the new filter and pan gasket.

Be sure they flush the transmission, then drop the pan and replace the filter.

Try to do it about every 30k miles.

I run synthetic transmission fluid in Lola. A flush with synthetic fluid runs about $180.

You might want to consider flushing the brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, and rear end fluid as well.

[mryzza]

So around 180 to flush transmission, replace filter, put new fluid in? Is that without labor?

[maxnix]

With. Try a search on flush here and in Infiniti Online Mechanic forum.

http://www.bgfindashop.com

Call first and check if they have the service and thath they will drop the pan and replace the filter. Some don't.

Get parts from http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

If ATF is not pristine and bright pink like new (white paper towel test), then you are over due. Might want to consider mechanical ATF excahnge with same brand non synthetic ATF, a chemical flush, then mechanical with synthtic and 6 oz. of Lubeguard Red.

[lino]

OEM Transmission FILTER $30OEM Transmission PAN Gasket $13Total Transmission Fluid Capacity with Torque Converter approx. 11 Quarts

+ Labour

Check out this link:http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgs...n.htm

Update:I just noticed that the transmission kit is more expensive than buying the parts separately.

http://www.trademotion.com/par...34381
Modified by lino at 10:18 PM 11/5/2006

[maxnix]

OEM Transmission FILTER $30OEM Transmission PAN Gasket $13Total Transmission Fluid Capacity with Torque Converter approx. 11 Quarts

+ Labour

You will need the one time use bolts for the pan also.

You will need 14 qts. for the BG machine to adequately exchange the fluid.

You may want to use a can of the BG transmission cleaner, especially if you are doing a double exchange. This does not cost twice as much in labor as the machine is already connected.

You should use 6 oz. of Lubeguard Red.

How is your PS fluid?

[lino]

Thanks Manix for the info . Do you have a link for the Lubeguard Red? I never heard of the stuff.

[maxnix]

Obtained from one of our sponsors with the NICO gift plan last Christmas. (Thanks Greg!)

Lubeguard red & black

Red is synthetic sperm oil (can't kill whales anymore) and is used to smooth out the final engagement shock (lock-up.) It is a friction modified that lowers the coefficient of static friction relative to the dynamic friction. Dynamic is when the clutch faces are slipping past each other--static is when they are stationary.

Black lubeguard increases static friction and dynamic friction coefficients, raising the locked-up torque handling capacity of the clutch unit (results in 'firmer' feeling shifts)

The Q45 TCU/ECU backs off on torque during the shift to give smooth shifts. For a given transmission condition/temp/oil condition, one can 'tune' the fluid characteristics somewhat. Factory settings are a compromise between smoothness, durability, and performance.

Ideally you would get a continuous flow of driveshaft torque under all throttle and speed conditions, with no noticeable jerk or sag. Hard to achieve in this world.

You want to be careful with harsh shifts--they stress the metal parts and clutch faces (and driveline parts) more than intended. This is not to say they will fail (right away), but incremental wear/damage is unavoidable with hard shifts.

Regarding Lubeguard. (No comment on Nissan D fluid since I am ignorant of the specific characteristics) I AM knowledgeable on DEXRON (all previous and present versions) and the 'type F' fluids.

Q45's through version III for certain were designed for the friction characteristics of DEXRON. This fluid had friction modifiers that shallow the slope of the torque vs slip curve as the clutches approach 'lock-up'. AND these fluids are suitable for those cars that ALLOW continuous slip of the 'lock-up' torque convertor to smooth things out.

Some transmissons are designed for different fluids, ones that have either no drop in torque transfer as slip goes to zero, or even fluids that have HIGHER torque transmission ability as slip drops to zero. This characteristic is called HIGH STATIC FRICTION. Dexron fluids have HIGH DYNAMIC FRICTION.

If youput a 'high static' fluid in a transmission designed for 'high dynamic' fluid, you will significantly increase clutch lock-up shock--even to the point of shearing the metal driving lugs on the clutch plates. You may even feel a 'firmer shift', but that is easily confused and misnamed. You can also get a 'firmer [faster] shift with higher viscosity fluid or increased oil pressure in the transmission operating circuit. 'Firmer shift' and 'clutch lock-up shock' are different processes and not necessarily coincident. You can have 'soft shifts' caused by worn clutches, leaking clutch pack seals, low oil pressure, and STILL have 'lock-up shock.' You can have fast, firm shifts and still have smooth , no jerk clutch lock-up.

I recomend AGAINST adding Lubegard BLACK to Q45 transmissions in an attempt to get 'firmer shifts'. All you are doing is increasing the momentary torque loading( lock-up shock) on the metal parts in the transmission and can brak some real expensive parts. This transmission IS NOT designed for harsh shifts and WILL break.

IF your Q45 transmission has slow, lazy shifts at moderate and more throttle openings, slips on shifting (engine speeds up), then either your throttle position switch is misadjusted, the transmission is worn and leaking internally, the oil filter is plugged, the fluid burned (worn-out), the clutch linings coated with varnish (from infrequent oil changes) or the valve body is malfunctioning for some reason.

Change the fluid. Add one pint of Berrymans Transmission cleaner and seal conditioner--run it easy for a week, re-drain and refill with DEXRON III --not synthetic--most DEXRON III fluids already have as much as 50% 'synthetic' base oil in them to meet the very low temperature viscosity requirements. What you are trying to do is clean off the clutches, clean out the valve body, and renew the friction modifier additive package. IF the shifts are not velvety smooth on lock-up, add one pint of LUBEGUARD RED. Do not confuse 'smooth lock-up' with 'firm shifts'. DO NOT ADD LUBEGUARD BLACK trying to get 'firm shifts'. To get 'firmer shifts' you will need to increase the transmission 'line pressure'. There are after-market spring/parts kits to do this. Use at your own risk. You DO NOT want to create harsh clutch lock-up under any condition--the metal parts will not survive.

[lino]

Thanks again! Do you know who sells it or do you have the manufacturer's link?

[ceningolmo]

It's a good compliment to the BG systems... so, many BG shops will carry it. I would do a search with your local BG shop and make a couple of phone calls. You may find out that they have everything you need.

[maxnix]

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/NICO was the (now expired) offer.

So try http://www.sportcompactonly.com/default.aspx

http://www.lubegard.com/automo....html

[Infinitiguy19]

Change the fluid. Add one pint of Berrymans Transmission cleaner and seal conditioner--run it easy for a week, re-drain and refill with DEXRON III --not synthetic--most DEXRON III fluids already have as much as 50% 'synthetic' base oil in them to meet the very low temperature viscosity requirements. What you are trying to do is clean off the clutches, clean out the valve body, and renew the friction modifier additive package. IF the shifts are not velvety smooth on lock-up, add one pint of LUBEGUARD RED. Do not confuse 'smooth lock-up' with 'firm shifts'. DO NOT ADD LUBEGUARD BLACK trying to get 'firm shifts'. To get 'firmer shifts' you will need to increase the transmission 'line pressure'. There are after-market spring/parts kits to do this. Use at your own risk. You DO NOT want to create harsh clutch lock-up under any condition--the metal parts will not survive.

Where can I buy Berrymans Transmission cleaner and seal conditioner?

And does the above apply any more or is the Drain and Refill/BG Flush route the same?

[goody90q45]

.......Where can I buy Berrymans Transmission cleaner and seal conditioner?.......

It looks like Berryman products are available in a lot of places...Napa Auto, Pep Boys, WalMart....

http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=116

[Infinitiguy19]

You are very right in fact I have never even heard of Berryman products before but now that I see what there logo looks like I remember seeing them at Autozone.

Thanks for the link but I still can't find anything close to a transmission cleaner on there site besides the MSDS. I will call them to see whats going on.

For the DIYer's Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone carries a Blitz (Made in the USA ) Oil change container. Get the one that holds 10 QTs so every time you change the oil and feel like doing a single drain and refill while your at it you will have 1 QT to spare. Its really low to the ground and has a little plastic net to catch drain bolts. Its really nice for $9: http://www.blitzusa.com/products/oil/Oi ... dp10od.htm