Transmission Flush - BG Only???

[chomer]

Ok. On to the next maintenance item.

transmission flush. I would like to put on a transmission cooler while I'm at it, but where should I get a transmission flush? Does it matter where? What equipment they use? And does a BG shop do it better? It's kinda hard to find BG shops around me - 33487.

Also, what is a reasonable price to pay for a flush?

Lastly, the (1) BG shop I found said that with the BG additive, they don't need to go in and replace the screen and gasket. Since I got new ones from Joe @ Infiniti, shouldn't I just put the new ones on, seal it up, and then do the flush? Isn't that a quicker way to ensure that the fluid is good and clean?

[elwesso]

I used a Snap-On flush and it worked great....if you can watch them pour your fluid into the machine and then watch it circulate it through, then youll be fine. Thats what I did, i was standing in front of the car during the process, took about 20 mins from drive in to drive out (well 30 because i had them fill my little blue bottle at the same time).....

I bought a can of BG quick clean for automatic transmissions before i went to the shop... Before doing all of that I dropped the pan myself and cleaned it and took care of the filter.... Can be done inyour garage in an hour or 2..

My flush cost $70 with fluid I think. They used valvoline conventional.

[maxnix]

Lastly, the (1) BG shop I found said that with the BG additive, they don't need to go in and replace the screen and gasket. Since I got new ones from Joe @ Infiniti, shouldn't I just put the new ones on, seal it up, and then do the flush? Isn't that a quicker way to ensure that the fluid is good and clean?

Some shops won't do a pan drop filter replacement. Avoid them.

Sun makes the SnapOn fluid exchange machine. Works great for the PS also.

http://www.bgfindashop.com

[Skibane]

Lastly, the (1) BG shop I found said that with the BG additive, they don't need to go in and replace the screen and gasket.

That just sounds like an excuse. There WILL be some material stuck in the old filter - and no transmission additive is going to get rid of it. IMO, without replacing the filter, it's a half-assed job.

Quote »Since I got new ones from Joe @ Infiniti, shouldn't I just put the new ones on, seal it up, and then do the flush?[/quote]Replacing the filter and gasket yourself before getting the flush done is a good way to go - gives you plenty of time to examine what's in the bottom of the pan, what was caught by the filter, etc.

[Infinitiguy19]

Does anyone have any thoughts on the Wynns transmission flush machine?

Does the machines use any electric or air pump or does it use the transmissions pump?

I am weighing the possibility of having the transmission flushed or doing it my self.

[maxnix]

I am weighing the possibility of having the transmission flushed or doing it my self.

A flush is the chemical cleaner added prior to the mechanical exchange.

I was told that the Wynns guy was a founding partner of BG, but sold out and founded Wynns. Have no further information.

[oldmako]

This trans flush - no flush but drain issue needs it's own website! hahaha

Just as an aside, when I had my BG-job done the guy said that my 14 quarts of M1 wasn't necessary because they used a synthetic fluid during the replacement. I have no idea....but I thought that I'd post this info for the masses considering surgery.

Seems a bit of a stretch since they only charged me a buck and a quarter or so for the whole job and I paid that much for M1. I dunno.

[maxnix]

They are meant to use the 14 qt.s of M1 in lieu of the BG synthetic and give you credit. The extra 3.6 qt.s are just to ensure the old fluid and flotsam leaves your TC, planetary gears, etc.

[Q45tech]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjxmlrbpjTk

How to use a Wynn's machine

Circulating the solvent [flush] in each gear with wheels off ground spinning: 5 gears for 2-3 minutes each with engine around 2,000 rpm in each gear is the cleaning part to get all varnish off things and into HOT ATF. Where it can be exchanged out [takes 3.5 minutes]. 18.5 minutes

Putting on lift. Pulling belly pan connecting hoses adding 14 quarts and dumping 14 quarts and restoration takes more time than the process.

In WINTER you may need to heat ATF to get it to 174F if sitting in lot waiting your turn turned off after on machine before adding chemical flush.

The Devil is in the details and proceedures vary depending on your advance tip to technican or the box of cookies/doughnuts or you can can just accept the average job.......quick and dirty and half assed.

[maxnix]

Pretty much looks like a BG machine.

Note half of the white paper towel test is performed.

Wynns Shudder Guard is what? Better ask before you accept it. And read TexasOil's and Q45tech's posts first regarding Lube Guard Red and Black.

Note by the color this guy waited too long and damage has occurred.

Or you could just do six drains and and refills and hope gravity moves the ATF with as much pressure as the pump (it doesn't).

The Sun machine has its own pump.

Guess I need to search for a PS simultaneous extraction and refill demonstration.

Here's for the turkey baster believers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...lated

[qship96]

Or you could just do six drains and and refills and hope gravity moves the ATF with as much pressure as the pump (it doesn't).

Brian, your above comment PROVES you dont understand SQUAT about what you are preaching regarding multiple drain/fills VS using a machine to exchange atf.

FYI, the internal transmission pump uses the atf in the drain pan{AKA the SUMP} as its supply......every drop of atf that gets pumped COMES FROM THE DRAINPAN........so if you unbolt the drain plug and drain the pan, you are REMOVING THE EXACT SAME FLUID and any contaminents it holds- your comment makes ZERO sense,as usual on this topic!

[jimbyjimb]

Don't circulate old fluid through a new filter, it doesn't make sense. Change the filter AFTER new fluid is added.

[maxnix]

Brian, your above comment PROVES you dont understand SQUAT about what you are preaching regarding multiple drain/fills VS using a machine to exchange atf.

FYI, the internal transmission pump uses the atf in the drain pan{AKA the SUMP} as its supply......every drop of atf that gets pumped COMES FROM THE DRAINPAN........so if you unbolt the drain plug and drain the pan, you are REMOVING THE EXACT SAME FLUID and any contaminents it holds- your comment makes ZERO sense,as usual on this topic!

Evidently you don't understand the concept of gravity only vs. gravity and pressure together.

That's squat, in case you don't know! For illustrative purposes, the next time you take a dump, don't use your bowels (i.e. -pressure) and see what falls out!

Need to get back on your Ginko Biloba, anti-oxidants and O2 before you lose more brain cells.

[Victor]

I agree a pan drop and cleaning, new filter or old filter cleaned, and new pan gasket are necessary, at least the first time you do a fluid exchange. I reiterate, not a single car manufacturer recommends a power flush, in fact a flush on an old transmission will do more harm then good. A fluid exchange, maybe a couple in a row if the original fluid is really dirty, is sufficient and best for your car.

[96Qowner]

Just a reminder:

In over 4 years of reading every post on this forum, after scouring the archives to help others, I've never once, not a single time, heard any poster say he had any trouble with anything after a transmission flush.

... just sayin' ...

[Infinitiguy19]

I agree a pan drop and cleaning, new filter or old filter cleaned, and new pan gasket are necessary, at least the first time you do a fluid exchange. I reiterate, not a single car manufacturer recommends a power flush, in fact a flush on an old transmission will do more harm then good. A fluid exchange, maybe a couple in a row if the original fluid is really dirty, is sufficient and best for your car.

Weren't you the one that said fuel injector cleaner was bad?

Nissan has its own fuel injector cleaner, can't find a pic buts its a can with Nissan all over it.

And the dealer around Massachusetts use BG machines for fuel injectors and transmissions, so I really don't see that you have a leg to stand on when it comes to cleaning products being bad for the car.

[Victor]

No it wasn't me. I never posted anything about fuel injectors. In fact I even used some Techron fuel injector cleaner in my gas a couple of times, but didn't notice any difference.

[Q45tech]

Techron is just the same formula they add to their gasoline. It is designed to keep clean things clean not clean things that are very dirty. Great if you use it from day when when car is brand new.

Even the old BG44K which was about 4 times more concentrated took time to see results.

Try 12 bottles of Technron [128 ounces] in 10 gallons of best gasoline.Remember Techron is only 5% detergents the rest is carrier fluid.

Hopefully members see why a [5%] rail flush and 15 minute idle with varying rail pressure has a better chance of cleaning things than a 0.05 or 10X method 0.5% from gasoline in tank.

The above applies to transmissions also 11 ounces of BG cleaner with maybe 2 ounces of cleaner solvents has a tough time cleaning when diluted into 1350 ounces of ATF............a little over 1/10 of a %.

[NightRiderQ45]

This trans flush - no flush but drain issue needs it's own website! hahaha

Just as an aside, when I had my BG-job done the guy said that my 14 quarts of M1 wasn't necessary because they used a synthetic fluid during the replacement. I have no idea....but I thought that I'd post this info for the masses considering surgery.

Seems a bit of a stretch since they only charged me a buck and a quarter or so for the whole job and I paid that much for M1. I dunno.

So did you use their fluid? I don't know about using their fluid because they claim that it's universal. I think that is total BS but I could be mistaking. How is it that they make a transmission fluid that is good for ALL CARS? Has anyone else here had experience the BG fluid. BTW, the term "synthetic" transmission fluid is over used since ALL transmission fluid has synthetic base molecules.

As far as the cleaning agent, I plan on buying some off of eBay to put in and drive around before I have my next service. That way, the cleaning agent would go through all the gears.

[qship96]

[QUOTE=maxnix

That's squat, in case you don't know! For illustrative purposes, the next time you take a dump, don't use your bowels (i.e. -pressure) and see what falls out!

N [/QUOTE]

WOW, BRIAN actually admits to being anal retentive! What a shocker!

[jimbyjimb]

From someone who has used flushing machines many times, it depends on what machine and who's using it. Power flushers, ick. Machines that use air pressure, ick. In fact, I only drain and refill because I have personaly seen improperly educated mechanics blow trannies and malfunctioning machines blow trannies. The BG machine according to Q45Tech, is a safe machine in proper hands. I myself have never seen or used one. I used the JB machine which worked great at changing all of the fluid and equally as great at blowing seals.

[oldmako]

I used my own fluid. I didn't find out until after that the replacement fluid used by the shop was syn. As for that, I am no chemical engineer (although I did experiment some in high school) and I don't know shinola about ATF other than it's basically hydraulic fluid. I do know that M1 is very expensive, but much cheaper than a new box.

It was by reading all the info here that I got the jones for the expensive stuff. Is it worth it? I have no idea. The car had 120K at the time and I had no idea if it had been ever done. The old fluid was clean and pink an the car shifted fine 99 percent of the time. It seemed a bit funky once or twice but that's when it was extremely cold out. Now days I follow Obi-Wan Q-nobi's advice and don't allow the engine over 2000 rpm until the coolant temp is in it's normal range. I let it idle a few minutes in the driveway then move out in no-tilt grandpa mode. Once it's warmed up and happy I smack it around like a cheap whore. The car has shifted normally since then. I am guardedly optimistic that with the wuss motor it will last a ga-jillion miles.

I also added the lubriguard red and a trans cooler, bypassing the pre-heater in the radiator. It's just juju....spend a little now and keep fingers crossed. Not much chance of me dropping a trans in this mother, I'll push it off a cliff first. From this point forward I'll do the 5-6 quart drain and refill once a year or so. Car has 145K on it now and I'll be satisfied if I can get it to 220-240K. After that, I'll toss it and look for a gently abused 3rd gen Q-fo-fi or a 1967, split window, 12 volt microbus.

[NightRiderQ45]

I used my own fluid. I didn't find out until after that the replacement fluid used by the shop was syn. As for that, I am no chemical engineer (although I did experiment some in high school) and I don't know shinola about ATF other than it's basically hydraulic fluid. I do know that M1 is very expensive, but much cheaper than a new box.

It was by reading all the info here that I got the jones for the expensive stuff. Is it worth it? I have no idea. The car had 120K at the time and I had no idea if it had been ever done. The old fluid was clean and pink an the car shifted fine 99 percent of the time. It seemed a bit funky once or twice but that's when it was extremely cold out. Now days I follow Obi-Wan Q-nobi's advice and don't allow the engine over 2000 rpm until the coolant temp is in it's normal range. I let it idle a few minutes in the driveway then move out in no-tilt grandpa mode. Once it's warmed up and happy I smack it around like a cheap whore. The car has shifted normally since then. I am guardedly optimistic that with the wuss motor it will last a ga-jillion miles.

I also added the lubriguard red and a trans cooler, bypassing the pre-heater in the radiator. It's just juju....spend a little now and keep fingers crossed. Not much chance of me dropping a trans in this mother, I'll push it off a cliff first. From this point forward I'll do the 5-6 quart drain and refill once a year or so. Car has 145K on it now and I'll be satisfied if I can get it to 220-240K. After that, I'll toss it and look for a gently abused 3rd gen Q-fo-fi or a 1967, split window, 12 volt microbus.

Great info. It wasn't until I got on this site and hearing everyone praise the M1 fluid, I went and jumped on the bandwagon and purhcased M1 and LG Red too. I didn't purchase the transmission cooler and don't plan to. I was upset at myself after researching to find out that ALL transmission fluid has synthetic base molecules to help with the heat. Plus given the fact that my transmission got to 175k off of "dino" fluid, did I really need to buy M1??? You are correct, I think that I might just do the drain & refill from this point foward too. IDK, that's what I say now, but knowing me, I'll probably still do the exchange WITHOUT M1 this time around. Dex-VI will be just fine.

[oldmako]

I lived in Tulsa from 84-86. Wonderful climate most of the time, nice architecture in many of the neighborhoods and CHEAP! Do they still roll up the sidewalks at night?

[qship96]

The trick to doing a drain and fill, is to park the car on a steep inclined driveway, nose up- *** down and you can get 5-6 quarts out of each drain, as compared to only 3-3.5 quarts if car is parked on level ground.

If you are able to get 5-6 quarts out { 50+% of total system fill}, each time, then 3 drain/fills with a short drive between each will net you 88-90% All new ATF in the system......and for the true OCD types, a fourth drain/fill will yield 94-95% total new ATF in system.......and save you 99-139$ labor to use an fluid exchange machine while totally eliminating the potential for some monkey to fubar your car.

[Victor]

Thats a good idea. I would have to put my car on ramps anyway, so that would lift the front end of the car. I believe if you had the kind of lift that lifts the frame of the car so the wheels can spin free you could probably get out even more fluid by starting the engine and putting the car in drive for a few seconds, at least that what it looked like they were doing when they did a fluid exchange on my car at the local transmission shop.

[Infinitiguy19]

Putting the car in drive or even having the car on while DRAINING the transmission pan fluid is just asking for a new transmission.

But I agree with Qships method.