Transmission fluid change

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Andrew224
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I just took my '01 QX4 (with 39,700 miles) in to Infiniti for a transmission fluid flush. When I spoke to the service consultant, he told me that a flush is not recommended for this particular transmission because the pressure put through the system may do more harm than good. He stated that a simple drain and refill is a better bet.

It's the first time I've ever had the dealership suggest less expensive maintenance over a more expensive procedure. I'd think that changing all the fluid would be better. Or is it overkill?

Has anyone else heard of this?

Andrew


megabyte
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there's a post somewhere on the site about that....did some research on my own and i did turn up with the same answer like the dealership told u...unless u have a transmission problem its not adivce...they use a big expensive machine to flush it with some serious high power force....i would go with the regular drain and change

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Andrew224
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Thanks for the info.

I stuck with the drain and change as suggested. I'm not having any problems, just trying to keep my truck running right and prevent problems.

Wound up costing me $90.

Andrew

Buzzman
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It's interesting to me that every vehicle I ever owned where I did nothing to the transmission, the thing never failed.Other vehicles where I changed the transmission fluid or had a flush ("preventative maintenance"), I ended up with transmission problems.Last case in point was a Ford Windstar I had. I got talked into doing a high power flush, and less than a year later, I had to get rid of it because it needed a new transmission. Coincidence?? I'm not sure.I'll tell you this though, I'm not doing anything to my cars' transmissions unless I have a problem. So far so good.

megabyte
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well the qx4 manual has a fluid drain at 90 000 its up to u i quess the safest if a half and half drain half and add half it all depends on u

SnowSurfLax
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It depends.

If you never flush it, you'll most likely be ok. They sometimes advise not to flush if it's really old as you'll just knock crap loose and have transmission problems (like me).

Or, You get the service done at suggested intervals and not have problems.

It also depends on how hard you run the transmission. I ran mine pretty hard and had to get 2 flushes so it would stop gumming up on me.

No problems now, just the usual rough shift from 1st to 2nd its always had.

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88pathoffroad
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If you maintain it properly, drain and fills should never be a problem, even on high-mileage transmissions. I used to work at a Jiffy Lube and the trans flush system was a simple gravity-feed setup with no pressurized "flushing" action. I feel that one of those would be fine, as all it does is allow fresh fluid to enter the system at the same time as old fluid is pumped out of it until all the fluid is completely exchanged.

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pathfinder_se_black
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i was quoted 150 dollars at the dealership. do you think thats a rip off? when i eventualy flush the transmition should i go ahead and change the differential oil?- all help apreciated.

AlabamaDan
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Changing diff fluid is a simple drain and refill. Buy the little pump for $5. It's a life saver.

How did a transmission drain and refill cost $90?

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03Chillinkoot
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While on were on this topic, has anyone tried actually removing the transmission pan and replacing the trans filter on the r50 transmission? Was thinking of trying this myself

voolover
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Did this a couple of months ago. New filter and pan gasket $27 at napa +16 Qts. of good fluid (dexron lll ) Undo the drain plug and let it drain. Undo the rubber flex hose at the radiator lower drivers side.

Here's where it gets fun........ Got an air compressor...? Good. Set the regulator to 20/30 psi and blow air back through the disconnected cooling line and watch another 3 to 4 qts drain. Hook up the hose, install drain plug and fill trans with oil...run engine till warm and shift thru gears. stop engine and do the drain routine like above but before you fill it up, undo the pan bolts and remove pan. Remove 4 screws holding the filter on and clean the pan. Bolt everything back together. Careful with the front pan bolts as they conflict with some steel cooling lines and you can strip the bolt holes in the case if not careful. Don't ask me how I know this. Fill it up ( I added a bottle of Transgard also ) and check the oil level when hot and your done!

This is a poor man's trans flush and works quite well...

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03Chillinkoot
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Sweet, thanks voolover, think i'll give that a try next time I need the fluid changed.

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Andrew224
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AlabamaDan wrote:How did a transmission drain and refill cost $90?
Well, yes, at face value, it may seem a little steep for a simple drain and refill. But I understand that they are running a business and must cover more costs than just the parts / fluids that actually go into my car.

Of course it's cheaper to do it yourself. Unfortunatly it's in the single digit temperatures here in IL and I don't feel like laying on the garage floor.

It's a give and take. You also have to take into consideration that I've been going to this particular dealer for years and in that time, they have never charged me the $50 deductable for the Infiniti extended warranty work that they've done on either of my vehicles. They always treat me well and don't try to sell me services that I don't need. And they always fix / service my vehicles properly the first time I bring them in. So for me, it's worth the few extra dollars to do business with a respectable company.

Andrew

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Andrew224 wrote:You also have to take into consideration that I've been going to this particular dealer for years and in that time, they have never charged me the $50 deductible for the Infiniti extended warranty work that they've done on either of my vehicles. They always treat me well and don't try to sell me services that I don't need. And they always fix / service my vehicles properly the first time I bring them in.Andrew
Isn't it nice when a dealership treats you like that? It seems to be the exception and not the rule.I've been doing business with the same Nissan dealer for 5 years, and in that time I've purchased 4 vehicles. These guys have treated me very well the whole time. They too have always fixed my problems the first time, and never over sell their services.Two examples of why I go back: My Sentra was past it's warranty when I had an engine problem, and they fixed it for free anyway. I only paid for the oil change.I also had my car rustproofed, and I'm supposed to have it inspected regularly to maintain the rust warranty. Well, I didn't bother doing it, and when I brought it in for something else, the Service Manager backdated the inspection card and signed it for me, no questions asked. They've also made suggestions and showed me how to fix a few minor problems myself, when they easily could have told me to bring it in and charged me an arm and a leg.I'm happy with them. Too bad they all aren't like that.

AlabamaDan
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My dealership is a bunch of crooks. Glad you got a good one.

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02pathy
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maybe you can do a commercial for them, i wish i knew a dealership like that, i might be inclined to take to the shop more often

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Andrew224
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The service department is definitely why I've stuck with Infiniti. When I had a Cavalier and went to Chevrolet, I felt like they were always trying to rape me on service. With my E320, Mercedes Benz was the same way but more expensive. That's why I don't own cars of those makes anymore. Even Infiniti dealerships are different. I've heard bad things about another Infiniti dealership in the area (actually closer to where I live). So for now, I'll stick with Infiniti of Lisle (Illinois) and recommend them whenever I get the chance.

Andrew

AlabamaDan
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I've heard good things about Infiniti of Lisle before. I think they are or were a NICO supporter.

WolfpactVI
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voolover wrote:Did this a couple of months ago. New filter and pan gasket $27 at napa +16 Qts. of good fluid (dexron lll ) Undo the drain plug and let it drain. Undo the rubber flex hose at the radiator lower drivers side.

Here's where it gets fun........ Got an air compressor...? Good. Set the regulator to 20/30 psi and blow air back through the disconnected cooling line and watch another 3 to 4 qts drain. Hook up the hose, install drain plug and fill trans with oil...run engine till warm and shift thru gears. stop engine and do the drain routine like above but before you fill it up, undo the pan bolts and remove pan. Remove 4 screws holding the filter on and clean the pan. Bolt everything back together. Careful with the front pan bolts as they conflict with some steel cooling lines and you can strip the bolt holes in the case if not careful. Don't ask me how I know this. Fill it up ( I added a bottle of Transgard also ) and check the oil level when hot and your done!

This is a poor man's trans flush and works quite well...

Sorry to revive a very old thread, but I'm about to do the 60k mile trans flush on my wife's 04 Pathfinder (4WD LE Platinum). I used to own a 97 4Runner, and I have a question regarding flushing the Pathfinder's ATF vs. how it could be done on the 4Runner.

On the 4Runner there were two lines running to the transmission that 1) you could splice into to install a transmission cooler, and 2) could be used to do a thorough flush. Basically you disconnected one end of each hose, stuck one in a container of new ATF, stuck the other one in an empty container, and put the key in the ignition and turned it to the run position (without cranking the engine). A pump in the trans turned on, and you just left it running until old ATF stopped coming out of the one hose and new stuff did. Was supposed to be the most thorough ATF flush.

My question is, are there similar lines running to the trans on the Pathfinder? I would like to do a flush and install a cooler while I'm at it. I have the FSM, but couldnt tell from a cursory perusal of the auto trans section whether or not it was a similar system.

Thanks all!

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jfm07
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Your car should already have a transmission cooler. If you remove the lower engine cover, you'll see the plumbing and transmission "cooling assembly" next to the radiator.

As for flushing, the quote in your post contains a good suggestion using compressed error through the cooling lines.

WolfpactVI
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I saw on the transmission hydraulic line diagram what looked like lines to a cooler, but I had been told when I got it that the Pathfinders did not come from the factory with the cooler. One less thing for me to do on it!

I currently dont own an air compressor, though I've been needing one for a while. My question still stands though: do I need to use a compressor, or is there a hydraulic pump in the trans that will do a more better job?

Thanks!

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Pwnin O'Brien
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Your Pathfinder does not have a dedicated trans cooler, instead the trans fluid is routed into the bottom of the radiator to cool the trans fluid. If you look at the bottom of your radiator, you will see two smaller lines coming from it. What you can do to thoroughly flush the trans fluid is drain the fluid from the pan and refill the same amount. Then remove the return line coming from the radiator as close to the transmission as possible and start the vehicle. The trans fluid pump will pump the old fluid out but it is only recommended to drain a quart and then replace a quart at a time until you see the new clean fluid.

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jfm07
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Sorry if the info was wrong. But here's the transmission part that I thought came standard on all 96-04 PF's and appears to be a cooler.

From the Courtesy Parts catalog: http://www.courtesyparts.com/21305y-coo ... 01650.html
Image

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Pwnin O'Brien
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Dedicated transmission coolers were available for the earlier model R50's (1996 - 1999). Once they switched to the VQ35DE they stopped using a dedicated cooler and switched to the integrated radiator setup that is on his 2004. The above diagram is for the 1996 - 1999 Pathfinder. If you look at the following picture of a 2003 Pathfinder you can see the two transmission cooler lines coming from the bottom of the radiator.

Image

alexf20c
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jfm07 wrote:Sorry if the info was wrong. But here's the transmission part that I thought came standard on all 96-04 PF's and appears to be a cooler.

From the Courtesy Parts catalog: http://www.courtesyparts.com/21305y-coo ... 01650.html
Image

yes that is a dedicated cooler. no, it did not come standard on all pathfinders. my pathfinder did not have one so i got from the pick-a-part from a '99 Pathfinder for $18.

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jfm07
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Good tip. Thanks for the clarification, guys!

WolfpactVI
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Pwnin O'Brien wrote:Your Pathfinder does not have a dedicated trans cooler, instead the trans fluid is routed into the bottom of the radiator to cool the trans fluid. If you look at the bottom of your radiator, you will see two smaller lines coming from it. What you can do to thoroughly flush the trans fluid is drain the fluid from the pan and refill the same amount. Then remove the return line coming from the radiator as close to the transmission as possible and start the vehicle. The trans fluid pump will pump the old fluid out but it is only recommended to drain a quart and then replace a quart at a time until you see the new clean fluid.
Thanks for the reply! Sorry for not getting back for a long while. Lot going on. Why does one need to replace only a quart at a time? Since there is a pump, couldnt you disconnect both hoses to the radiator, stick one into an empty container (to catch the old fluid) and one in a container of new fluid? That way new fluid is being continually drawn into the trans as the old is being pumped out. You could just watch the stuff coming out of the line to the container catching the old fluid until you see new fluid coming out. Would that be a viable approach?

qx41997
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Here is what i do ,replace every 2 years atf fluid from the pan (it is usually about 5 lit) refill with MOBILE 1 atf syntetic fluid ATF.
check level in both cases cold /warm and that is it.
one more thing i have put small o ring magnets on the bottom of the oil pan to attract metal particles if any from the system.

doing this almost 7 years and never got any issues with transsmission.
pathfinder 92 made 360 000 when i have sold it with original transsmission and engine.The guy who bought from me reported last time 410 000 km using same routine on it and still running strong.
do not use any additives to transmission or any other ATF fluid which is not syntetic.
Now we have QX4 using same routine we crossing 260 000 range and still very very strong.

normal driving conditions winter /summer not towing heavy things just sea doo s.

qx4 and path is way to go .

check from time to time your map sensor and clean it as required and charcoal canister on the back to avoid p0443 and p 1447 fault and have better fuel economy.Adjusted distributor on 8 deg. before top dead center.

now we have 13.4 l per 100 km city and 10.2 on hyw. under normal condition 100-120 km per hour not using cruise and temp. outside 23 deg not running a/c.


very happy with this engine ,next one will be 3.5 l engine more hp.

cheers


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