Transmission filter can be cleaned!

[DrewQ45]

I'll get flamed for this, but here's how...

The filter has two holes... an inlet and outlet. The outlet is the round spout sticking up from the filter housing and the larger rectangular hole underneath is the inlet. During operation, the fluid is sucked up into the rectangular orfice, filtered through the mesh and continues on through the top outlet. Therefore, the sediment which consists of mainly clutch facing deposit and tiny bits of metal sits in the bottom part of the filter. Some of the heavier pieces may/may not fall back into the pan but much of this is aluminum and will not get caught by the magnet so they just lay there at the bottom. The worn clutch material will eventually clog your filter or impede the oil flow starving vital components if the filter is not cleaned or changed. (no matter how much you flush... pan drop and filter service is a must)

A picture is worth a thousand words but I'm lazy and would rather paint it for you grammatically.

So here's how you clean it. You'll need a gallon or two of gasoline in one of those red plastic gas 'cans' with the flexible plastic spout. A plastic bucket and some rags. Remove the O-ring on the outlet so it doesn't get lost or eaten up by the gas. Hold the filter vertically with the outlet facing the up over the bucket, stick the plastic spout of the gas can into the outlet...(should be a pretty tight fit if you have the right kind of gas can.) Then pour gasoline generously as it flushes the sediment out of the inlet (rectangular end). Lean the filter side-to-side slightly for good measure.

When enough gasoline has accumulated in the bucket to almost submerge the filter, place the filter flat in the gasoline shake it around gently... please, don't any of you geniuses hold it with anything metal such as pliers... we don't want any sparks here. Repeat the process again then flush from the opposite end...this time you'll have the inlet (rectangular side facing up).... again, slosh gasoline generously. By now you should see all kinds of crap floating at the bottom of the gasoline. Since gasoline is light, it falls to the bottom pretty fast and stays there for the most part. If you pour gently, you can use the same old gasoline to wash out the pan.

Let the filter stand vertically as it dries so that all the gas drains out. Gas dries quickly, but keep two filters, one always cleaned and you won't have to wait. For those of you worried about the effectiveness of this, I used a very strong flashlight and a small mirror to inspect the filter's interior. I suppose someone with a camera on a flexible scope could do a better job... but it was very clean.

Think about it.... now you can clean the filter every time the fancy catches you rather than making your car wait a year or two, spending $40 and waiting for a new one to be shipped.

...Drew...


Modified by DrewQ45 at 1:07 PM 3/11/2007

[maxnix]

Filters are about $25 from Joe.

Need to dig up ancient post by Q45tech where he cut a "clean" used filter screen open and examined under a microscope and found many contaminants caught in the mesh that were not visible to the unaided eye.

[DrewQ45]

Filters are about $25 from Joe.

Need to dig up ancient post by Q45tech where he cut a "clean" used filter screen open and examined under a microscope and found many contaminants caught in the mesh.

Anything that can be caught by the mesh is viewable by the naked eye. Anything so small that one needs a microscope will pass freely through the mesh anyway. If you're speaking of the microscopic 'dirt' which is really finely ground metal (such as the paste found on the magnet), the process I described above cleans it. Try the paper-towel test. Even if it didn't, what you describe is negligible. The important thing is to maintain a clean flow and stop the big particles.

Let me just say I installed a brand new filter from Joe when I did this so I really didn't have to ...it was $29.20 + 8.95 shipping = $38.15

The whole point of this is not to just save money, but to clean the filter regularly instead waiting a year for a new one. Ya feel me?

[Jesda]

Dont say drift. All the 240 kids will suddenly flock to the thread.

Interesting writeup!

[DrewQ45]

Dont say drift. All the 240 kids will suddenly flock to the thread.

Interesting writeup!

*Edited for Jesda*.... lol

[qship96]

who wants to go through the hassle of pan r/r more than every 60,000 miles? total waste of time if fluid is replaced every 25-30k-filter will remain clean enough to not impeed flow for at least 100k if fluid changed frequently-if anything change the external filter more frequently than the screen,as it traps smaller particles and will clog way before the screen!

[DrewQ45]

who wants to go through the hassle of pan r/r more than every 60,000 miles? total waste of time if fluid is replaced every 25-30k-filter will remain clean enough to not impeed flow for at least 100k if fluid changed frequently-if anything change the external filter more frequently than the screen,as it traps smaller particles and will clog way before the screen!

If you replace the fluid 4 times in 100K, you still have 100K worth of gunk in the filter, albiet less with fresh oil. Imagine changing engine oil but never the filter. Wash your screen filter out one time and see. If it looks great then do it your way. U got nothing to lose.

90-93 has no external filter so you might be good...I dont know.

Fluid replacement or flushing does not clean the filter. In fact, a flush would work better if you cleaned the filter first, flushed the transmission, drove the car for a day, then dropped the pan again to replace or clean the filter. The first clean would serve to give the flush maximum effect since you'd be flushing through a clean filter, the second would be to get rid of all the dislodged particles freshly caught by the screen. You could put back the same oil you just drained back in the transmission since it's only a day old. Gravity siphon it from a bottle sitting top of the car and particles will stay at the bottom. (Pouring will reintroduce particles.) I did this last week (chemical flush) and my transmission is now shifting better than it ever has. I found quite a bit of particulate matter had accumulated after flushing throught the 'clean' filter and driving for a day. The 1-2 rough shift I thought was being caused by 1st gear TCU is now smooth as silk.

BTW, Maxnix will be glad to know I'm a bigger fan of flushing now. Drain a gallon every 3 oil changes to replenish weakened fluid, drop pan and wash screen. Flush every two years. It gets no better.

...Drew...
Modified by DrewQ45 at 5:23 PM 3/11/2007

[qship96]

I can only state what has worked for me--fluid exchanged with synthetic every 25-30k SINCE BRAND NEW, screen first changed at 114,000 miles-looked good,ran fluid through it without showing any signs of restriction,external filter replaced 1x... and currently at 187,576 miles on original transmission,works perfectly

[Q45tech]

I would rather see members ADD an external oil type paper filter [in series with a cooler] and change that every 30k and not drop the pan but once to install a new filter or if buying a new dealer remann never open the pan just change ATF and external filter.

More damage seems to be done by degraded acidic/oxidized ATF than from dirt [clutch wear material].

If it's big enough for oem metal filter to catch the transmission needs rebuilding anyway.................probably there to make JATCO remanning easier on parts not to protect the transmission in normal operation.

Why oem added inline paper filter to stretch life.

[qship96]

wow! what I have believed since day one,thanks qtech for informing members THAT THE EXTERNAL FILTER IS THE MAIN ONE TO BE CONCERNED WITH AND TO CHANGE FREQUENTLY,not the screen

[DrewQ45]

I would rather see members ADD an external oil type paper filter [in series with a cooler] and change that every 30k and not drop the pan but once to install a new filter or if buying a new dealer remann never open the pan just change ATF and external filter.

More damage seems to be done by degraded acidic/oxidized ATF than from dirt [clutch wear material].

If it's big enough for oem metal filter to catch the transmission needs rebuilding anyway.................probably there to make JATCO remanning easier on parts not to protect the transmission in normal operation.

Why oem added inline paper filter to stretch life.

I agree with all you said except that I have recently seen a transmission or two get clogged by clutch wear material to the point of not shifting into ANY gears. Neighbor's Furd Taurus with 60K has been sitting since November... went into "neutral" on the highway with his wife driving with no previous symptoms and never shifted into any gear since. CLOGGED FILTER

Adding an inline filter would be effective and less of a hassle as long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Which cooler line would you suggest adding it to? I guess in series it wouldn't matter right? In either case, for a 90-93 with an old tranmission, I'd perform my steps just before adding the external filter. After that it's all good.

[DrewQ45]

I really think this should be a sticky.... very comprehensive.

zerothread?id=103519

[maxnix]

I agree with all you said except that I have recently seen a transmission or two get clogged by clutch wear material to the point of not shifting into ANY gears. Neighbor's Furd Taurus with 60K has been sitting since November... went.

Until a couple of years ago, Jerry Tucker did the flush without a pan drop filter replacement. Then one of our members had a transmission lock-up immediately after the flush. Now he does the pan drop and filter replacement every time.

To think nothing is caught in the interior mesh, even after washing, is a serious misconception. And the filter is cheap compared to a transmission.

[DrewQ45]

Until a couple of years ago, Jerry Tucker did the flush without a pan drop filter replacement. Then one of our members had a transmission lock-up immediately after the flush. Now he does the pan drop and filter replacement every time.

To think nothing is caught in the interior mesh, even after washing, is a serious misconception. And the filter is cheap compared to a transmission.

Try washing one... you don't have to use it, just wash it using my method and let me know what you think. Use a small dental mirror and flashlight to examine the mesh, or better yet, cut it open.

...Drew...

[Skibane]

Filters are about $25 from Joe.

Pretty cheap insurance, IMO - and an entire external filter kit - including the spin-on filter - doesn't cost much more (under $40). After it's installed, the cost of doing frequent filter replacements drops to just a few bucks - and gets a heck of a lot easier, too!

[AZhitman]

Drew - I have done mine as you describe for the past 5 years... 137K miles on the original trans.

B&M cooler installed at 75K, new filter at 72K, and filter cleaning + double-fluid flush every 6K miles thereafter.

[PachoC]

Quick question about the filter/mesh: Are there any aftermarket (i.e. Fram) filters available for the Q? Or do you recommend sticking with OEM?

[qship96]

I would rather see members ADD an external oil type paper filter [in series with a cooler] and change that every 30k and not drop the pan but once to install a new filter or if buying a new dealer remann never open the pan just change ATF and external filter.

More damage seems to be done by degraded acidic/oxidized ATF than from dirt [clutch wear material].

If it's big enough for oem metal filter to catch the transmission needs rebuilding anyway.................probably there to make JATCO remanning easier on parts not to protect the transmission in normal operation.

Why oem added inline paper filter to stretch life.

BRIAN READ THE ABOVE ,AND COMMIT TO MEMORY
Modified by qship96 at 11:39 AM 3/24/2007

[StarPD]

Do NOT use gasoline to clean parts.

Use kerosene. It's actually a much better solvent,and has a much lower chance of ignition. It is generally a lot friendlier to rubber and plastic seals and o-rings too. Removal of any traces of kerosene can be done with alcohol, being cognizant of seals/o-rings.

[DrewQ45]

Do NOT use gasoline to clean parts.

Use kerosene. It's actually a much better solvent,and has a much lower chance of ignition. It is generally a lot friendlier to rubber and plastic seals and o-rings too. Removal of any traces of kerosene can be done with alcohol, being cognizant of seals/o-rings.

Too late...already did. The filter is 100% metal. Kerosene is not readily available...Gas is. Gas disappates with little or no residue, kerosene is oily. Flammability is a risk with both...common sense should always prevail.

[gammer_ghn]

since were on the transmission subject what are some transcoolers that work well with the 99Q, and are there any with external filter capabilities? I would Very much like to know so thx.

[98_Q45]

Bringing this old thread up that I came across on Google lol…

But does anyone know what codes could be brought up for a clogged transmission filter (or if there is any?)

I’m wondering if my struggling to accelerate/overheating after driving on highway could be due to a transmission filter clog? I wouldn’t go thru process of cleaning just because the filter nowadays comes with the pan gasket included at most parts and online stores. But I have tried to change it twice, but ran into difficulty trying to figure out how to get underneath the vehicle enough to remove all the pan bolts. I’d probably need 4 Jack stands.

Taking it in for a diagnostic, but just wondering if maybe I should buy a filter just in case. Filter hasn’t been changed in my ownership since 2017…not sure if ever was prior but might have.

[Ryantzer]

With as prevalent as transmission issues are on the Q45s I would do a fluid and filter change on it right away. It may not fix your issue but if your trans fluid is 6 years old at minimum it's overdue for a change.

[98_Q45]

Ha, didn’t even know that was the case. What kind of trans issues?

Took in for diagnostic, and my usual shop couldn’t connect to the port. Idk what the f*** is the issue because, I can connect my little $5 reader and Bluetooth it to my phone. Idk if they don’t have the engine on or what. But I usually have to turn the engine on so it can connect, and then I can read data. I mentioned this to them but, guess they only wanted to use their computer. Had this issue couple years ago at Infiniti even. They said they couldn’t connect to read the codes. f*** annoying, idk wtf.

That said, I might take another stab at just replacing the AT filter and see what it does. Or take it to muffler shop to look at the cat. I changed the ATF fluid 2 times last year already, to get a full drain. But I read somewhere else saying someone had an issue that sounds similar to mine, and it was transmission filter.

[98_Q45]

Well as an update, I was able to do a self test…basically revved the engine in park, and then revved it in drive with foot on brake. In park, it has no issue getting up to 2-3,000. In drive, once the sluggishness starts: there’s a grating/clicking type noise coming from underneath. So now I know, it’s definitely transmission related and probably not catalytic converter.

It’s also not having any issues starting up or running hot while idling. It’s only when I’m driving with the transmission engaged, does it start feeling like I’m towing a trailer.

Brought a transmission filter last night, waiting for it to arrive but…not sure I want to try to do it myself or take it in. I’ve done it before on my Maxima, but the FWD transmission sits in the front, more easily accessible.

At $20 online, $30ish at the store: prefer to just change it out with new since the gasket is included. Fingers crossed this is the issue and not something worse like…a whole transmission. Then again I’ll admit I’ve not dropped the pan since I owned it at 182,000. It’s now approaching 350,000 (luxury cars were actually made for cross country salesmen lol

[Ryantzer]

Your transmission fluid was overdue for a change about 105K miles ago, and at this point the lack of maintenance is probably the reason you have transmission issues. At this point you've got nothing to lose by changing the fluid and filter - it's not difficult to do, the transmission pan is easily accessible.

[98_Q45]

Your transmission fluid was overdue for a change about 105K miles ago, and at this point the lack of maintenance is probably the reason you have transmission issues. At this point you've got nothing to lose by changing the fluid and filter - it's not difficult to do, the transmission pan is easily accessible.

Well that’s the thing: I did change it atleast once or twice when I first brought it, and then last year I did it 2-3 times to get a full drain/fill.

I had started to do the pan, even brought the filter kit: but when I was trying to get underneath, there wasn’t enough leverage and room to move around to appear I could do all 18 bolts and then hold the pan back up to install. It just looked like a pain.

At that point I didn’t think it was an issue, but a friend last year did suggest I do a transmission drain because of a grumbling feeling when accelerating. But I guess this is the result of that. I’ve also checked the fluid and it didn’t appear burnt or low…so I figured to skip it.

Though this definitely confirms something…

[Ryantzer]

I'm confused - your previous comment says you haven't dropped the pan since you "owned it at 182,000" (which I'm assuming means when you purchased it), but your last comment says you've changed the fluid several times. Did you use a fluid extractor to remove the fluid without dropping the oil pan?

[fontana dan]

My Y33 has a drain plug on the transmission fluid pan. I replaced the filter, don't think they're designed to be cleaned.

[98_Q45]

Yes, that’s what I meant : I just drained from the oil plug on the transmission pan. I changed it like 2-3 times within a week or 2 timeframe towards end of last year.

I did notice however, I started hearing/feeling a funny noise when I shifted to drive, around that time. After I got the fluid all changed. But it was probably just something I never noticed all along (which is expected when you drive a different vehicle for a week and then go back to it).

I’m just glad I finally notice this because: it’s definitely not good. If I get some quote like $200 Labor to drop the pan, idk I may try to tackle it myself again. But it just doesn’t look 1 person friendly from the ground. Though I have a garage so I can wing it if I have to, but sometimes even that’s not enough. Prefer a lift and a trained eye for transmissions.