Okay, I didn't know the Y33 has a drainplug, the G50s don't have a plug so the only way to change the fluid is by dropping the pan. Please disregard my previous comment about being overdue for service - I thought you hadn't changed the transmission fluid in over 168K miles.

I still think you can change the filter yourself with your car up on jackstands, but it can be messy if you're not familiar with doing it or don't have an appropriate drain pan. You might look at having it done at a quick-lube place - they often do transmission fluid services as well oil changes.

Ryantzer wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 28, 2023 6:12 am

Okay, I didn't know the Y33 has a drainplug, the G50s don't have a plug so the only way to change the fluid is by dropping the pan. Please disregard my previous comment about being overdue for service - I thought you hadn't changed the transmission fluid in over 168K miles.

I still think you can change the filter yourself with your car up on jackstands, but it can be messy if you're not familiar with doing it or don't have an appropriate drain pan. You might look at having it done at a quick-lube place - they often do transmission fluid services as well oil changes.

Good idea…I might try the vavoline chain, 40 miles away (then again, maybe not because I’m burning too much gas with this issue): since their Max life fluid seems to be Matic-D approved. Just not sure if they’ll accept a customer brought part. I know it’s simple, but I don’t feel 100% confident taking it to my local small shops for transmission. Infiniti does not like regular transmission fluid. Even my 4th gen Maxima preferred a name brand, high mileage Dex fluid. Otherwise it would hard shift in protest between 1 and 2.

I’ll call up and see. I have noticed some auto shops have really upped their price on things like alignments and oil changes unnecessarily. I know $200 is less than a rebuild but: I have a large drip pan, tarp and drain pan along with the tools. So it’s like, I almost feel “punished” for not doing myself if it’s going to cost $179.99+tax for a transmission filter (and they’ll probably want to do a flush, for a total of $299.99 lol) . I imagine my local shop will give me a better price. And Walmart doesn’t do that kind of work anymore either. They wouldn’t even loosen my differential bolts.

But I might just bite the bullet just because, that sound might be something else in the transmission I’m not familiar with. I’ll update next week when I can get something done.

I wouldn't let a quick lube place touch the transmission in this car.
It's not difficult or technical to drop the pan and change the filter. It can be kind of uncomfortable and messy, but the drain plug on the pan makes it much easier. Be sure to order a new gasket. And make sure the seal on the old filter doesn't stick in the valve body.

fontana dan wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:46 am

I wouldn't let a quick lube place touch the transmission in this car.
It's not difficult or technical to drop the pan and change the filter. It can be kind of uncomfortable and messy, but the drain plug on the pan makes it much easier. Be sure to order a new gasket. And make sure the seal on the old filter doesn't stick in the valve body.

Just catching this: spot on, as I decided to just say f*** it and do it myself. I was in a good mood and had some free time this week, so figure might as well. I just don’t have the extra money lately to keep paying maintenance techs for routine stuff, unless it’s something that I just can’t do.

Overall it was definitely messy and uncomfortable. The fact that it sits between two exhaust pipes, in the middle makes it hard to access it from one side. I was having to go from both ends. Pan came off with no trouble, but a couple lines bolted on to it, added time unnecessarily. Then the gasket was like plastic. Surprised it hasn’t leaked. But there’s some connections just behind the pan, that have been leaking. Not sure if that’s related to the filter.

Overall, the magnet had a lot of accumulation on it. The oil was clean from last year’s change, but the filter had some particles also. Didn’t seem as transparent as the new one. I wonder if the pan has ever been dropped since 1998 lol. It probably did at some point.

Won’t know if issue is fixed until tomorrow, had to scrape into the pan a bit to get the gasket off so: went the gasket sealant route for better insurance, and letting it cure overnight. Hoping/praying this is the issue. If not, for sale lol.

Update: did the change but it’s still acting crazy! But giving it a couple days, it looks like I lost about 6-7 quarts of fluid during the change. But I couldn’t count how much came out during the actual pan drop. I used a 7 quart pan without lines, but it was looking about 6 quarts full. The pan drop nearly spilled over a second large drip pan, onto the tarp. It was more than expected even after draining from the fill plug. Added 6.4 quarts and still showing low on fluid. So hopefully another half bottle will do. Wondering maybe if torque converter just wasn’t getting enough fluid if the filter was super clogged?

That said, idk. I think it’s still something else. How does a problem go away, and then reappear again and again? I’ve read about head gasket leaks causing similar issues. And it seems to go away after a long drive, a couple bottles of water-gas treatment, and even some seafoam direct to the oil.

I’ve also read about torque converters going bad directly. Never had that happen so can’t be sure that’s it. Just hella frustrating though. And I can’t find a mechanic in my area who’s willing to really take the time and figure everything out. If I have to take it to a shop again, I’m going to demand I’m in the service station every step of the way. Sick of this s***.

Btw if anyone ever wants to do this: it took a 1 gallon jug of Trans fluid, plus 3 full quart bottles all together, to get it to the full line. So basically like 7 quarts. A drain from the plug normally I only needed to add like a gallon (4 qts) and a half bottle.

So the mess was worth it, dipstick is cleanest I’ve seen it. It won’t need anymore changes here on out. May do another drain/fill in a couple years, that’s about it.

However I wouldn’t consider this an easy DIY by any means. I spent a lot of hours on it, between clean up, and then getting the gasket scraped/sealed up right. Not sure how much it would have cost but, wouldn’t be surprised if a shop quoted $300 or more…then again, it would have likely been faster on a lift, with power tools.

Plus the next day, my neck and shoulders were done with lol. Like, I really felt beat up doing it. But I’ve put it off twice already, and if and when I have the spare time to do it: I don’t mind. But under vehicle work is just not my favorite. Even being a regular at the gym, is not the same as the positions having to contort myself for DIY work lol.

Oh the pain from DIY car repair is real. Every time I smell oil burning on my exhaust from a small rocker cover leak, my lower back twinges.

Q451990 wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 10, 2023 10:13 am

Oh the pain from DIY car repair is real. Every time I smell oil burning on my exhaust from a small rocker cover leak, my lower back twinges.

Yah, but my body healed quicker than it would have taken to replenish my bank account lol. And I have a little extra ATF on hand to top off. I have found many shops RARELY get the correct fluid level. Usually a light comes on indicating low level after a repair. Hard to get trans and coolant right on the first time, it takes a drive or 2.

As for your rocker cover leak, no lie but: I have a Cadillac that was bad for it. An oil change and some good engine oil seal rejuvenator (stop leak) from bars cured it. If I let it sit longer than a week it’ll come back until the engine runs a bit, but did that two years ago and it’s helped keep that smelly oil burning away.

If it’s too far gone and just making a mess of the engine Bay and fouling spark tubes, it might not work as well. But I tried it on the Q years ago and it stopped the oil leaking into the tubes until I could change the gasket.

I do have a filter and gasket NIB for a FGY33 if anyone wants to service the transmission on their 1997-2001 Q45.

Email me quickly as it will be on eBay soon otherwise.

maxnix wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 27, 2024 12:29 am

I do have a filter and gasket NIB for a FGY33 if anyone wants to service the transmission on their 1997-2001 Q45.

Email me quickly as it will be on eBay soon otherwise.

Well that’s good to know…

As an update, unfortunately the filter change hasn’t fixed my issue. I’m somewhat inclined to believe something with the transmission might be acting screwy intermittently. I’ve just brought a bottle of sea foam transmission cleaner, as I’ve not done much of any additive additions to the fluid.

It’s frustrating because the issue will come and go and can’t seem to get a proper diagnostic. Next time I’m going to need to have it on a lift and someone driving it while another underneath. I’m concerned the torque converter or associated parts might be the culprit. But will see how this other stuff works

Unless you want to change the transmission I would not add the Seafoam in the transmission.