Transmission cooler install

[crankor]

I picked up the hayden 697 cooler and was wondering what people used to mount it to and where? i'm guessing the plastic brace that the radiator rests on for bottom but not sure where to attach it to the side. Looks like i can cut a hole in the plastic shroud thing to the right of the radiator to run the lines? Doesn't look like theres anywhere else to run them without cutting into something. Guess i could make up a metal brace to run from the center brace? though its pretty far away. Where L brackets used to mount to the lower plastic thing?

[VStar650CL]

On the wife's Altima I used one of these kits to mount it through the condenser and radiator fins. It's all plastic and foam, hasn't given us any trouble.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/351627012618

[crankor]

oh the hayen came with that mounting hardware but i don't think it came with the foam pieces. i wasn't sure if using those were ideal or not. Maybe i could use the copper pipe insulating foam stuff? Is it worth running the lines through the radiator still or should i just bypass it?

I couldn't find any definitive answer on if there was a best or worst orientation but i was going to keep the ports on the side anyways

[VStar650CL]

The problem with cutting off the heat exchanger is when you're idling for a long period, the ECM will only run the fan according to engine temperature and will ignore the transmission. So if your only cooler is a radiating type, the transmission can cook from limited airflow while the engine is fine. It will also take much longer for the tran-ny to warm up, and for lubricated parts, cold ones always wear faster than warm ones no matter what mechanism you're talking about. So my advice is, leave the heat exchanger in the loop.

Vis the foam, any high-temperature HVAC foam you get at Lowe's or Home Depot will work fine. I did add some extra underneath the 697's flanges when I switched the Altie from a 512 to a 697, because of the way the 697 is constructed.

[VStar650CL]

Oh, and the pressure hose should go to the lower fitting on the cooler, the return hose should go to the upper. That lets buoyancy help chase any bubbles in the lines back to the pump.

[crankor]

I finally got around to installing the trans cooler after getting my axle bolted back on and well, i'm about 90% sure my TC is dying. The temps did stay cooler but from what i've read from others, the temps shouldnt go much past 160. Mine still eventually went up to 190 after about 20 minutes of driving (only really went up at stop lights) but did go down to about 185 ish when driving. I didnt push it too hard yet since i'm still weary of hat hard shifting issue that has happened since it overheated the first time and i noticed the shifting has been a bit wonky still lately but i'm not sure of thats also because i have permanent p1078 and p0430 codes (no CEL though) I'll have to check the voltage wiring as my next to do but does it sound like a high probability the TC is dying? Pretty sure if i just gave it full throttle on the highway again it would hard shift again.

[crankor]

These posts keep bugging out on me

[crankor]

Did that maintenance check thing on the scan tool and it popped up a p1721... looking like im gonna have to just have the transmission replaced. From what I understand, that's from the sensor in the valve body which explains the funky shifting and well i still suspect the tc to be going bad too unless a bad valve body could also cause the fluid to overheat? (From before) i can get a used fairly low mileage transmission for the same price as a remanufactured valve body