transmission prb....

[sr20-thoj]

I finally got my car started, but for some reason i cant get it to go into gear at all. I bled the clutch twice already. not sure if im doing it right or wrong. I tried starting the car while its in 1st gear, but it wants to move. any ideas??

[Onizuka]

If it wont go into any gear after you start the car, then it most likely means your clutch still isnt working. It could be either a bad master/slave cylinder or a hydrolic leak. That or there is still an absurd amound of air in the line. Do you still have the damper box on the clutch line? Get rid of it if you do, its an air trap and ruins pedal feel.

[mmashburn]

I had the same problem when i did my swap... im actually using the SR slave cylinder b/c my KA was leaking around the boot. I kept bleeding my clutch until i used a whole bottle of brake fluid, then i finally realized that there wasnt any air in the lines.. i actually just needed to adjust the clutch pedal it self... that can make a HUGE difference in the clutch feeling. there is a push rod between the clutch pedal and master cylinder.. you can turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust it... first you have to loosen the 12mm bolt that holds it down.. you should be about to turn the rod by hand... try turning it clock wise a few turns and see if it helps... make sure you tighten the 12mm bolt back down.

[sr20-thoj]

so do i get rid of that damper box??

[getnrowdy23]

YES!!!! that thing is terrible!

[mmashburn]

im sure that thing is horrible for trapping air, but shouldnt the clutch still work if he bled it right? i still think he needs to adjust the clutch pedal since it takes a few minutes... i had the same exact problem when i did my swap, but in my case the clutch would just fall to the floor, no feeling at all.. so i bled it and then..... adjusting the pedal made a huge difference in pedal feel...

also try getting someone under the car whenever you push the clutch in, see how far it is moving the fork??

[dustyk]

I finally got my car started, but for some reason i cant get it to go into gear at all. I bled the clutch twice already. not sure if im doing it right or wrong. I tried starting the car while its in 1st gear, but it wants to move. any ideas??

If you tried starting the car while in first and the car moved, that would mean that your clutch isnt disengaging. Does your clutch pedal come back up after you let go of it? If it stays on the floor after you press it you definitely have lots of air in there still. You may have a bad slave cylinder but unless you see any leaking fluid Id think that you just have air in there. Try pumping the clutch multiple times, even if there is an absurd amount of air in the line, this should slowly build pressure in the system and disengage the clutch, if it doesnt, you may have a bad master cylinder or slave cylinder

[mmashburn]

did you buy a clip or a motor set? if you bought the clip, did you try switching out the slave cylinders?

[sr20-thoj]

its just the motor set. I tried bleeding it again today.. found out it wasnt that for sure now... im not sure what to do now.. thinking i should upgrade my cylinder to 300zx.. if i do get a new clutch cylinder... should i also get a new slave too??? I was talking to some mechanics today.. not sure if they know what theyre saying.. but they said that if it wont go into gear.. and when your in 1st, when you start car.. if it moves.. then your gears are all messed up... so iono.... any help guys??

[mmashburn]

why are you starting the car while the transmission is in 1st gear???? lets try starting it in nuetral next time... it wont start unless the clutch is fully depressed though.... have you tried adjusting your clutch like i posted before?? if not then you need to try that, it worked for me... did your clutch slave cylinder work fine before the swap?? if so, then it should work perfectly fine now.. i bet money if you buy a new slave cylinder, it will do exactly the same thing.. i may be wrong though.

if you start a car while it's in 1st gear without the clutch fully depressed, it's going to move and try to "jump forward"... why would your gears be messed up.... maybe you should find a new mechanic

i think you cant get it into gear b/c the clutch fork isnt being moved enough... adjust the rod going into the master cylinder and let me know what happens

[sr20-thoj]

it might be the fork not being pushed enough... maby because of the push rod.. ill give that a try though.. ill let you know if that was prb or not..

[yellow_jacket]

If the hydraulics were ok before the swap then the adjustment on the clutch pedal should be ok. The clutch pedal should be adjusted to come into contact with the master within about 1/4 inch. If you adjust it to where it is actually pushing on the master then something is wrong(there is still air in the line)

As far as the hydraulics go, did you remove the lines when you did the swap? iirc there is a bleeder screw on the damper box, have you been bleeding from there? Quite a few people have removed the damper box due to the inability to get all the air out of it.

As far as your mechanic goes, just take it with a grain of salt. Remember he hears a lot of stories from people that don't know what they are talking about and thus probably didn't pay a whole lot of attention to the symptoms you listed. Worst case scenario is that you need a new clutch.

[Scooby24]

I had the same problem when doing my auto to manual swap.

It's air in the clutch line.

We bled and bled and bled at the slave cylinder and the bleeder tube and no air...but it still was super soft and wouldn't go in a gear.

So then we bled the master cylinder and just a spurt of air and then all a sudden it works fine.

[sr20-thoj]

How do you bleed the master cylinder? how do you take off the damper box also?

[Scooby24]

How do you bleed the master cylinder? how do you take off the damper box also?

hmmm...it just occurred to me you may not have a bleeder on yours. I got two master cylinders when I did my swap and I used the one that fit better and it had a bleeder on the side of it and the line was underneath... the other one had the line on the side and there was a screw underneath. I suspect that's where you bleed it from.

Here's the link for http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/in....htmlfor removing the damper box. it's really straight forward.

[TougeTune180]

I am having a similar problem, like it shifts ok, but its really hjard to shift, the pedal has tons of free play, and it wont engage/disengage harshly at all (i.e. sidestep it from 4000 rpm and the revs just drop and it bogs). i have also bled mine like a thousand times and it doesnt seem to help. sometimes the pedal will be real soft and squishy and then other times it will be the correct hardness. I am using an Exedy Organic Copper Mix Stage 1 clutch and pressure plate. any help is appreciated

[Scooby24]

I am having a similar problem, like it shifts ok, but its really hjard to shift, the pedal has tons of free play, and it wont engage/disengage harshly at all (i.e. sidestep it from 4000 rpm and the revs just drop and it bogs). i have also bled mine like a thousand times and it doesnt seem to help. sometimes the pedal will be real soft and squishy and then other times it will be the correct hardness. I am using an Exedy Organic Copper Mix Stage 1 clutch and pressure plate. any help is appreciated

Sounds like you may have a leak in your lines somewhere if sometimes it's harder and other times not....if there's a lot of freeplay though try adjusting the master cylinder arm at the pedal and lengthen it.