transmission Pan Question

[NightRiderQ45]

All. I've been searching and searching...actually found some very detailed post from but not exactly what I'm looking for. Even searched the FSM and it isn't stated there either. How many qts. does the Y33 transmission pan holds? Is it 4qts? I couldnt' find the answer anywhere. I'm thinking of doing the drain & fill method. Maxnix, to my surprise, I did notice in the FSM where it stated to do multiple drain & refills if the fluid isn't clean. I mean we all know that it won't be clean with only 1 drain/refill, but I was surprised that the FSM stated to do that, especially since you are so against that.

[maxnix]

Maxnix, to my surprise, I did notice in the FSM where it stated to do multiple drain & refills if the fluid isn't clean. I mean we all know that it won't be clean with only 1 drain/refill, but I was surprised that the FSM stated to do that, especially since you are so against that.

That's what 95% of the dealers do. Neither they nor Nissan has an interest in keeping your transmission working past the end of their warranty. They are in the business of selling parts and installing them, not prolonging the life of any car past warranty expiration unless the owner specifies and pays for specific procedures.

You transmission will drain about 4 qts., leaving over 6 qts of conatmainated fluid in reserve. Why drain and refill is a losing battle, but better than doing nothing.

[qship96]

forget trying to figure out how much the pan holds, as the amount you will actually drain out will vary with temperature, length of drain time, original fill level, angle of car where parked, etc. Just drain the pan and measure amount drained then refill with exact same amount of new ATf, repeat several times with a short{5-10} mile drive in between if you want to get nearly all the old atf out. Easiest way to measure old fluid drained out is to pour it into a clean one gallon milk/water jug, and use a second jug to fill with new atf to match level against old filled jug.

If you park Q on inclined driveway,head up and a** down, you can get more old atf out then when Q is parked on level ground. I am able to get 5 quarts out per drain on my 96 doing this- repeated 4 times gives me 88-93% new fluid. I complete the above procedure every 25,000 miles using Redline D4 atf, and at 224,300 miles the transmission operates like new and old fluid comes out looking near new{red}- probobly could stretch these intervals to 40,000 miles .
Modified by qship96 at 4:49 PM 3/5/2009

[bullittandy]

I have done this many many times and of course can't remember how many quarts are in the pan. I can say with certainty that it is between 3 and 4 quarts.

[texasoil]

transmission fluid is so cheap compared to transmission's

[NightRiderQ45]

I appreciate all of the replies. What everyone stated was true. Yes, I plan on doing the drain on incline ramps, so it will be face up, arse down. See my main struggle was that I was trying to come up with a way to measure the fluid that comes out and Qship stated an easy option. I do also believe that you can easily push that Redline fluid to 40k. I put M1 in at 175k and I plan on changing it out at 205k. Hey, I'm a engineer my trade, so I guess that I was trying to make the job harder than what it was. Andy, thanks for that ball park range too.

Texasoil. I've read a lot of your old post concerning synthetic atf. You stated that M1 is oversold because all "dino" aft has atleast 50% syn molecules to stand the heat. I read a post yesterday during my search where someone stated that using M1 aft alone is proven to drop the temp. 10 degrees. That sounds good and all, but I won't believe that unless someone provides me the proven study.

[maxnix]

Main advantage of higher grade synthetic (all ATF is synthetic) is resistance to break down at higher temperatures which is where varnishing occurs.

Just a note: Ths tranmission kit for the FGY33 is different (internal oil filter?) than the G50 although the transmissions are ostensibly the same. Same for the fuel filter, although both appear almost identical.

[elwesso]

I really dont think theres any use in using synthetic oil in the transmission if you just change it every year and be done with it...

[NightRiderQ45]

I really dont think theres any use in using synthetic oil in the transmission if you just change it every year and be done with it...

Exactly! Bingo! When I first joined this site, I jumped on the M1 bandwagon because I didn't seach much. After searching, I realized that basically, I didn't need to spend the extra money. My next fluid change will be with Dex-VI. I mean, I did put 175k on using "dino" transmission fluid not M1.

So does anyone have the "proven" info that using M1 alone decreases the transmission temp by 10deg?

[maxnix]

I really dont think theres any use in using synthetic oil in the transmission if you just change it every year and be done with it...

By the way, Wes does mean mechanical exchange, not just drain and refill.

The advantage to the higher grade synthetics, once again, is resistance to break down at elevated temperatures. A concern in mountains, steep hills, high speeds, and hot summers.

An auxiliary stacked plate cooler will bring down ATF temperatures more than 10° F. Read Skibane's excellent post on hose routing with one installed on a FGY33.

I have used conventional (very little oil, if any, came from dinosaur decomposition) in my Acura Legend for over 183K. But I can send you pictures of my VH45DE valve covers and heads with M1 since 55K now at 102K. Pretty much appear as new, and better than any other I have seen published here. M1 doesn't varnish like conventional oils.

[NightRiderQ45]

By the way, Wes does mean mechanical exchange, not just drain and refill.

The advantage to the higher grade synthetics, once again, is resistance to break down at elevated temperatures. A concern in mountains, steep hills, high speeds, and hot summers.

An auxiliary stacked plate cooler will bring down ATF temperatures more than 10° F. Read Skibane's excellent post on hose routing with one installed on a FGY33.

I have used conventional (very little oil, if any, came from dinosaur decomposition) in my Acura Legend for over 183K. But I can send you pictures of my VH45DE valve covers and heads with M1 since 55K now at 102K. Pretty much appear as new, and better than any other I have seen published here. M1 doesn't varnish like conventional oils.

I understand the reasoning using syn fluids, especially oil. Now syn oil is far more valuable than syn aft though. I know that installing the aux transmission cooler will bring down the temp., but there was a post actually multiple posts where people stated that using M1 alone will drop the transmission temp 10deg. That's what i didn't believe. Yes send me pics, I would like to see them.

[Q45tech]

Besides temperature rating fully syns have a more uniform molecular size than conventionals which decreases internal friction a little 1,2,3% depending on temperature.

All the hundreds of additives blended into ATF are synthetic it is just the base oil say 80% that is the variation.

I would agree that a top quality ATF changed frequently [<30k or 2 years] is pretty equivalent unless peak temperatures or a special combination of additives is desired. ESPECIALLY WITH a greater than 15,000 BTU cooler [bigger than 6"x11"x1.5"].

It is impossible to decide the size you need with out actually measuring the ATF sump temperature [<210F] under the exact conditions and temperature AND DRIVING STYLE as the models vary from 12,000> 50,000 BTU per hour.

By the way just 1 single Horsepower wasted [lost due to friction] is the equivalent of 12,000 BTU/hr.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/531996 ... ti....html

[qship96]

I hope we put an end to the myth that "all ATF is synthetic"......in conventional atf, only the additive package is synthetic while the base fluid{which makes up over 80% of the finished product} is petroleum based.

A true synthetic atf uses PAO or POE as its base fluid along with the additive package.

To me, it seems silly to try to save a few dollars upfront and not use a full synthetic ATF and differential gear oil- Whats $100 worth of fluid every 30,000 miles....peanuts in the scope of things when it comes to overall Q ongoing running costs.

Less friction/less wear/longer fluid life/longer transmission life/less heat generated/less varnish/better cold and hot flow/less evaporation/less viscosity breakdown/slightly more power transferred/just some of the benefits of full synthetics.....all for a few dollars more than conventional dino juice per quart, what a bargain!!!