transmission issues!!

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Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
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First I have an 89 Nissan 240 hatchbackground info-After installing a newer motor I heard a clunking noise so after using a metat rod and a metal coffe can I found the problem to be coming from the back of the engine. Then I see a part of the "LUK" clutch kit laying on the ground. It was the piolt baring(sp) and it was broken.

So I droped the trans and put a new one ftom AutoZone and now I can't seem to get the trans to go on to the piolt baring(sp). I can get it to within 1-1.5 inches and it will not go any further. Any ideas of suggestions would be welcome.


navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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you kind of have to work the transmission in there to fit. if you loostened the pressure plate, make sure you used the alignment tool.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
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I've redone the clutch twice and the problem is I just can't get it to go into the piolt barring(sp). I even took off the clutch fork dust sheild and looked in there and saw the splines on the trans are just after the pressure plate but it just will not move. Is there any one local that could come help? I'm about to take everything to a shop and have them do it. Or if some one local can help I'm willing to pay.

180fan
Posts: 7799
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2002 12:16 pm
Car: 89 fastback

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is the pilot bushing in all the way? Next, check the alignment of the clutch to the pilot bushing with the tool as 240kid suggested. Then when you get the transmission up, you can use the bellhousing bolts to try to force the shaft into the bushing.

GBSilviaS15
Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2004 6:10 pm

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What a coincidence I had the same exact problem - it took me 4 hours.

Take a deep breath.

When I finally got the bellhousing within inches of the block, I went all the way to the back of the transmission (towards the driveshaft), assuming the driveshaft is out. I got myself in a position where I can kick the whole bell housing in towards the engine block. Kept kicking and kicking and kicing and kicking, and finally tried to put any bellhousing bolts in that would reach, and started screwing them slowly, and eventually got them all in.

Okay, I suck at explaining I guess.

Pretty much what you do is support your bellhousing with a hydraulic jack with wheels. Then go to the back and kick the bellhousing until it gets close enough to bolt the bellhousing bolts on. Then start bolting the bolts on and eventually the bolts will force the transmission in there, that's it.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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First did you slide the pilot bushing on the input shaft to check fitament before pounding it into the crank shaft? This helps to verify its not distorted before trying to force a round peg in a sgaure hole. Another thing you never want to force it in as you will likely tear up the pilot bushing. The way to do this when doing it on the ground is to lay flat on your back under the trans with your feet toward the front of the car. prop your knees up against the bell housing to kinda support the trans. then with your hands grap the tail housing of the trans and work it up and down and side to side pushing it toward the engine with both your knees and your hands. if it does not fully mate to the block with a "thud" you need to rotate the crank shaft slightly to help line up the input shaft spline on the trans with the clutch splines and retry. When you find that point every thing is lined up it will literally fall right into place with no need to use the bell bolts to suck it in. It also helps to use a bottle or floor jack under the crank pulley to tilt the engine back some.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
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One thing I forgot to mention was the barring was slighty to big to fit in the engine. I used a drill bit and some tape and put the barring on the bit and used some sand paper to bring it down to the right size. do ya'll think that could have something to do with it?

GBSilviaS15
Posts: 274
Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2004 6:10 pm

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Not at all. As long as in fits into the input shaft and spins smoothly around, then it's okay. Mine was also big for the crankshaft, I had to socket + hammer that thing in, but mine fit into the input shaft fine.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
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have ya'll ever heard of the piolt barring being able to fit before it was installed and then not fitting?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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your suppose to hammer it in. It is a press fit so it wont spin in the crank shaft.

Yes I have heard of it fitting before and then when you go to stab the transmission the input shaft wont go in. It is almost always because the bushing was mushroomed at the end. making the edge or the opening smaller.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
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do you think I should try to run a drill bit through it to make sure, or should I just buy a new one. If I should buy a new one , how do I get the old one out?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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yes get a new one. To get it out I use a slide hammer with and end designed just for removing the bushing. They also have the screw type that pull them out.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
Contact:

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Do you mean the tool used to pull dents off body work?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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yes same tool but it has a pilot bushing adapter that screws onto it.

Superist1
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 2:10 pm
Car: 89' 240sx Coupe
Contact:

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Alright I think I'm gonna give in and pay someone to do it. He said to install the trans and fix the problem about 250.00. Does that sound like a good deal?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Yea thats pretty fair.


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