transmission flushing bad?

[Brad-Man]

I have a '94 Q45a, which I purchased in '96 from Infiniti with 32K on it. At ~50K I started taking it to T3 - they did the transmission flush and installed a B&M transmission cooler, fixed a few things. Since then I have had Texasoil's accumulator recharge (installed by T3 - to the best of my knowledge the first that they had done), plugs, rear subframe replaced, tension rods replaced, etc.

Before I go any further - I'm anal. I'm a programmer. I like to research and plan everything out before I make the first move at anything.

I now find myself on the road a lot for extended periods of time and cannot rely on being around T3 for all of my service.

I have searched and read all posts and tech articles here.

I came across a thread here: http://www.cadillacforums.com/...78244

Makes a point...

I would take it that at a minimum, you would want to drop the pan and CLEAN IT OUT, remove the filter, THEN flush, then replace the filter before installing the pan.

Since I don't know anything about the machines that DO the flushing, I have questions:

Obviously I wouldn't be taking my Q45a to a Jiffy Lube or hole in the wall operation, but how could I tell the operations that will do the flush properly?

Should ther be a concern about the quality of fluids used for flushing - how to tell?

What are considered proper procedures for a flush?

No the machines have filters in them that need to be maintained, and what type of maitenance?

What are the shortcuts that are used that are less than ideal that have been alluded to but not specifically stated?

I am a firm believer that the OWNER is the person ultimately responsible for seeing that his car is serviced properly. To that end, I am asking these questions in order to be better able to protect my Q (and other cars).

Don't want to step on any toes, but the tech articles to me don't go into as much detail as they could to enlighten those of us who search before asking.

For instance, the post/article in Infiniti Articles does mention Mobile 1, which is what I use, but doesn't mention Lubeguard Red/Black. I doesn't mention machine types to look for, and what to watch out/look for in determining if a shop takes all due precautions pertaining to transmission flushing.

Yes, by searching, I can find recommendations for either the Sun Machine or the shops that utilize BG products and whatever machine THEY use, which isn't stated. Doing a search on the internet has produced a variety of machines - which are good and which aren't?

I would suggest that a policy of ongoing updates of the articles might go a long ways toward eliminating repetitive posts. I might also suggest that the article be expanded and detail steps for a DIY solution without machine that would get 99% of the way ther - how many times to drain/refill - how long to wait (yes I know it's in a thread - why not one place that has ALL of the accumulated knowledge?)

I'm getting redundant in my own post.....

Thanks for any enlightenment,

Brad

[Defiant]

I am not, nor do I pretend to be any sort of AT expert. However, one of the sharpest folks on the planet, in my experience, is John at IPT. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/I'm sure he would answer your email.However, consider the mere fact that regardless your motivation, there are millions of automatics out there who have never experienced one flush, let alone anything like regular maintenance. That you have the sense to do so should put yours at as much advantage as you could get. My reservations in having a shop like a Jiffy chain do a flush job would be in regard to a stripped bolt rather than a bad flush. Your box probably has nothing to flush out of it, anyway.Email John.

[Q45tech]

The flush is just a solvent that first recirculates in ATF to loosen the crud and varnish. After 15 minutes every lose is in suspension in old ATF..............THEN

The machine are just a bladder dividing 2 partitions as the AT pumps ATF thru the TC and out the heat exchanger line connected to the empty side of bladder.............the pressure against the bladder forces an equal amount of new ATF into the heat exchanger return line.

Old in new out in equal quanities

[maxnix]

I would take it that at a minimum, you would want to drop the pan and CLEAN IT OUT, remove the filter, THEN flush, then replace the filter before installing the pan.

Since I don't know anything about the machines that DO the flushing, I have questions:

Should ther be a concern about the quality of fluids used for flushing - how to tell?

What are considered proper procedures for a flush?

No the machines have filters in them that need to be maintained, and what type of maitenance?

What are the shortcuts that are used that are less than ideal that have been alluded to but not specifically stated?

I am a firm believer that the OWNER is the person ultimately responsible for seeing that his car is serviced properly. To that end, I am asking these questions in order to be better able to protect my Q (and other cars).

Don't want to step on any toes, but the tech articles to me don't go into as much detail as they could to enlighten those of us who search before asking.

Yes, by searching, I can find recommendations for either the Sun Machine or the shops that utilize BG products and whatever machine THEY use, which isn't stated. Doing a search on the internet has produced a variety of machines - which are good and which aren't?

I would suggest that a policy of ongoing updates of the articles might go a long ways toward eliminating repetitive posts. I might also suggest that the article be expanded and detail steps for a DIY solution without machine that would get 99% of the way ther - how many times to drain/refill - how long to wait (yes I know it's in a thread - why not one place that has ALL of the accumulated knowledge?)

Good points. Read the posts, especailly all by Q45tech. He had one AT last over 173K on a rigorous mechnaical fluid exhange schedule with filter replacement using M1 ATF.

http://www.bgfindashop.com Call and verify the service is offered and that they will drop the pan and replace the filter. Some shops won't. Of ask a SnapOn jobber who has a Sun machine. Add the ATF cooler while you are there.

Don't neglect your other fluids like PS, brake, and differential. You know about active fluid.

[Skibane]

Some excellent advice here -

There is something to be said for dropping the pan and replacing the filter yourself - gives you plenty of time to examine what's in the bottom of the pan, cut the old filter open for an autopsy, etc. This also allows you to choose your own replacement filter/gasket/pan bolts (instead of accepting whatever crap the shop insists on installing).

Then, bolt it all back up, throw in approx. 4 quarts of fresh (cheap) ATF, and take it to the shop to have a flush/fluid replacement with a quality, name-brand full synthetic fluid.

[maxnix]

That's certainly a valid strategy. I would err on the side of caution and use the same brand and type in the transmission now to avoid any potential conflict with differing additive packages. Probably not critical, but I would be real leery of off or shop brands.

Most BG flushes use the BG synthetic ATF. May or may not include the chemical flush.