transmission Fluid an inch over max??

[Pathofinder]

So I checked my transmission fluid for the first time in forever, and Im having a very hard time getting a good reading on the dipstick.

The car was parked flat, and warm. But the dipstick showed I was a good INCH passed the top of the HOT serrated marks. I hope this isnt correct.

My car has been doing a shift "flare" ONLY when going into 3rd gear. It flares up and makes an almost birdcall type of highpitch whine for a brief second. Probably something slipping inside the transmission??

So is there a best way to get an accurate reading?? Say I was to drain the flui and put a better transmission fluid in. How much would it take?? And is there a BEST transmission fluid, maybe one to help a tired old transmission...

Any advice is greatly appreciated

[Towncivilian]

With the transmission at operating temperature (which usually can be achieved by driving around for 10 minutes after the engine is warmed up), the fluid should be within the crosshatched area marked "HOT". I usually check mine at a gas station after driving around for a while so I know everything's hot.

1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.
2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P.
4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.



The approximate drain & fill capacity is 4 quarts of fluid. The total capacity is 9 quarts. To change out all of the fluid at once, you can perform a cooler line fluid exchange. Steps are found in the general information thread under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.

As for fluids, I've had good experience with Castrol Import Multi Vehicle in my Pathfinder. 10 quarts can be obtained for $36.90 before tax at Advance Auto Parts if you order online, use discount code CCABIN and pick-up in store. I also put a bottle of Lubegard Red (which I found at my local NAPA), an additive highly lauded and used by many transmission shops. In my experience, it smoothed downshifts in particular and there is less shift shock when triggering overdrive via the O/D off button. It also supposedly reduces temperatures, but since I don't have a transmission temperature gauge I can't verify that claim - that and I have an auxiliary transmission cooler installed, so my temperatures should already be lower than what other members here may be seeing.

2001 and newer Pathfinders have a "heavy duty" version of the RE4R01A which has upgraded internal components to back the VQ35DE engine. They are fairly bulletproof and yours should not be "tired" unless the previous owner(s) did not maintain the fluid regularly.

[Pathofinder]

I checked mine with the car off and didnt go thru the gears like that ill go try again

Id LOVE to do a full fluid swap, can you really just pull the transmission cooler line and let it drain out? that procedure actually confused nme

[Towncivilian]

I tried to be as clear as possible in the steps - what part confused you? Basically you disconnect the hose end leading to the transmission, put it in a collection jug, start the engine, let two quarts of fluid drain out to ensure that the transmission fluid pump doesn't run dry, shut the engine off, add two quarts, and repeat until you've exchanged the entire transmission's fluid capacity plus 30 to 50%, then reconnect the hose of course. Check the fluid level properly and ensure the hose isn't leaking (it shouldn't be unless you forgot to clamp it tightly enough) and you're set!

[Pathofinder]

Oh I see. I suppose that is a good way. But to me the dirtiest oil would be at the bottom of the pan, and would only come out with pulling the drain. Then I suppose I could refill. And then do it your way to get a good clean almost flush.

I just checked the fluid again, and its definetely quite over the max line with the engine running and in park, but the fluid looks clean and doesnt smell burnt or discolored. So 15 quarts would be enough?

[Towncivilian]

You can do a drain & fill and then perform the transmission cooler line exchange, or go one step farther and drop the transmission pan & change the strainer, and clean the magnet on the bottom of the pan (there's a guide here). You'd need approximately 16 quarts, but it'd be very thorough. If you remove the drain plug, be sure to replace the crush washer with a new one from the dealer; ask for an oil drain plug crush washer.

Even though your fluid looks good, if you don't know when the transmission was last serviced I'd go ahead and do it. For a total cost of maybe $80-90 if you do a pan drop and filter change and cooler line exchange, it's "cheap insurance" and in the future you'd need to only drain & fill every 30k or so. I'd also advise installation of a Magnefine in-line filter; details can be found in the general information thread.

[Pathofinder]

Could the transmission fluid being to full cause a shift flare like mine though?? It flares up and makes that slipping noise/ bird call ONLY when going into 3rd... wonder why

I guess I need to pull it in the garage and see if i can get the fluid level proper. How much fluid difference is there going from the low mark to the high mark on the dipstick?? Im trying to get an educated guess at how much fluid I could try to take out at first to get the level to proper

[Towncivilian]

Overfilling can cause all sorts of issues. I'd guess that the level between the low and high marks on the dipstick is a quart. The easiest way to remove fluid is either to siphon some out of the dipstick somehow, or disconnect one of the cooler line hoses and let fluid drain out, then fix the level as required.

[Pathofinder]

Oh ya great advice I can use the transmission cooler line to remove a bit of fluid!! Good thinking, does it come out very fast??

[Towncivilian]

No, with the engine at idle it takes about 30 to 45 seconds to drain two quarts if I recall correctly.

[Pathofinder]

Why is this dam car so hard to read the fluid level on the transmission dipstick. It seems so stupid to read the fluid level thru the same narrow tube that you use to fill the fluid!! Everytime I pull it out the fluid level shows atleast an inch passed the marks but it doesnt come out repeatable every dip, not really even close.

When I pull the dipstick out the transmission fluid is still way up there with the engine idling and warm.

What we did was drain the transmission fluid from the pan. No idea how much as I thought I was over filled so I just drained it. Then I refilled with 5 quarts of new Castrol ATF, and the dipstick reads way high again!!

Im letting the car cool for a bit, then I'll check again. I may end up draining some if it still reads how to see if I can get a good repeatable readout.

Are you allowed to check with the engine off?? To let everything settle.... or does it HAVE to be idling

[Towncivilian]

I think the engine has to be idling either way. You can start the engine cold and check it (once all the fluid has drained back to the pan from the dipstick tube) and just use the cold side of the dipstick to measure. Check the fluid later when it's "HOT" of course as well.

[Pathofinder]

Ya I just cant seem to get a good clear indictator. Like can you pull out your dipstick right now and have a clear oil line, nothing above it

Bahhh

This dipstick doesnt read near as good as engine oil dipstick!! so easy to read

[Towncivilian]

I hate the transmission dipstick too. But more often than not, I can get a clear line of fluid when I pull the dipstick hot and following the procedure.