transmission failure and burning out

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Qgrappler
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Sorry to jump threads here, but it is too much to resist noting that elwessos two threads "possible transmission failure" and "why cant I burn out?" are for the moment right next to each other. Didnt want to post under either one to cause them to move.

Sorry elwesso, couldnt resist. :)


maxnix
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Qgrappler, are you implying there is a relationship?

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elwesso
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Its ok, it has crossed my mind, but I dont think it is..... 1st gear is really strong, and the 2-3 shift is the only bad one...... Not denying anything, but it seems more engine related......

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90Q45blue
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I believe the proper term is 'burninating out' :)

Sorry i just could't resist.

Nick

forecast
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a stall speed test will tell you if either the transmission or the engine is the weaker part.

... of course this sort of test puts a great deal of stress on the transmission and could damage it if it's already on the edge.

On level ground with some space in front your car, chock the rear wheels, fully apply the parking brake. Put it in first and stand on the brake. Push accelerator to WOT. Keep your foot on the brake so the car doesn't move! Not the highest RPM achieved in 15 SEC. Do NOT hold the throtle open more than 20 sec.

Working from memory ... the RPM should be 2600.

Much higher indicates a slipping transmission / worn torque converter. Low RPM indicates weak engine performance.

forecast
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AHHH!

I got out the book and checked my facts a little.

don't do this test for more than 5 seconds NOT 15!

... 5 seconds only ...

and the engine and transmission need to be fully warmed up first.

normal RPM is 2100 - 2300

... all from service manual page AT-91

(When I first got the car I basically read the service manual cover to cover before I popped the hood, nine months later a few of the details are bit foggy, especially in areas I haven't to enter)

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elwesso
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Stall test-- ~1500rpm

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elwesso
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At least the transmission isnt slipping!!!!! (or at least 1st)

Eswift
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yeah, if you are that low on the stall test, sounds like the engine is weak for some reason...

by the way, how is this stall speed test any different from a brake-torqued burnout? are you supposed to mash on the brakes so much that the rear wheels are locked in place?

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AZhitman
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E-brake applied fully and wheels chocked.

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elwesso
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I didnt chock the wheels, but the Ebrake was on full, foot brake on full.......

forecast
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the wheel blocking is more so that you don't accidently drive the car into a wall than it is necessary.

sounds like the engine isn't hitting quite the torque.

At least you got a baseline for any improvements you might try.

I don't know all the specifics that go into a torque convertors stall speed, but I might guess that deposits on the vanes in the torque convertor might lower the stall speed? (or raise it, I really don't know).

Since the engines' power (torque) curve is really only impressive above 2200 rpm you need to get the engine up in that range before you can break the wheels loose. I find in mine the torque only really kicks you in the seat above 3000.

Cleaning the TB won't help WOT performance, but cleaning the plenum might.

Check the rear tires inflation. A higher PSI will reduce the size of contact patch slightly (of course the remaining contact surface will be under higher pressure so it could be a wash). Experiment with that a little.

forecast
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did the stall test on my car.

In first - 2200 RPM, in second 1900 RPM

in both cases I only did the test for about 2-3 secs because despite the ebrake and fully applied brake a rear wheel started spinning.

My car has low power in the low rpm range (injector issue I think) and I can't always burn out.

dan

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elwesso
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Well regardless of the fact that I cant burn out, I still need to figure out why my stall test is as low as it is......

forecast
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well, as I said, at least you've gotten a little more data. back in the why cant i burn out thread I threw in my suggestions, let me know if you find them helpful

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elwesso
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I got those, thanks!!!


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