Track Results

[ItzGenX]

For those who have read my other post, I have had a previous best of 13.85@101 with 12.5psi last time I went to the track.

Tonite, I went again with the car unchanged. The only difference this time was that it was 20 degrees cooler and running 13.5psi this time. As a result, I managed to get 13.3@107. I tried doing more runs, but after 4 back to back runs, my spec clutch began to slip.

Does anyone with a Spec Stage II clutch have any problems resulting from large amounts of torque? The clutch got to a point where I couldn't break 98mph in the trap for the 5th run. As a result, I stopped for the nite. It grips again now that I've tested it on the way home, but it is strange that it would slip at such a low limit. Anyway, I guess I'll get a stage 3 or 4 clutch soon because the stage 2 could barely handle a lightly modified stock sr20.

[nnkfws333]

I didn't know but what mods do you have? LSD? etc?

[Phax]

Did you check how many pounds of torque your clutch could hold before you bought it? I'm not sure about the exact numbers on my RPS clutch, but I remember it holds somewhere in the neighborhood of 350ft/lbs of torque.

Are you sure your clutch is slipping? I could have sworn that mine was, and later found out that my transmission is on it's last legs.

[VitaminT]

Your master cylinder rod may just need adjusting.

[ItzGenX]

Don't you mean slave cylinder? My clutch holds fine now, no more slipping. I think it was the back to back runs that heated the clutch too bad (like brake fading). One thing I did notice was that on the 5th run when the clutch began to slip, midway down the track my clutch pedal felt as if it was lower to the ground. I threw it in neutral and pumped it to return it back to normal. All runs after resulted in slippage, probably due to the superheated flywheel from slipping before on previous runs. Today the car felt normal on the way to work. I even gave it a few hard runs to check, and it gripped to redline in 4th gear. I think my slave cylinder kind of gave way a little (pedal didnt return to its normal resting position) and caused the flywheel to superheat from slipping. Then all runs after slipped because the flywheel did not have adequate time to cool down. Think so?

My mods are:

S13 Blacktop (Rebuilt with stock internals)CometicHD MHGTrust Valve Springs and RASSplitFire DIS Coil PacksFull 3" Turboback Exhaust including Trust O2 HousingTrust VSPL FMICTrust Type-S BOVWalbro 255LPH Fuel PumpBlitz SBC-ID III and Powermeter-ID IIINismo Motor and transmission MountsTrust Oil PanToda Lightweight FlywheelSpec Stage II Clutch (Rated at 380ft/lbs)

Some info on the car:95' SENo ABSNo LSDBrembo Rotors with Metal Master pads all the way around.

[D-UNIT]

could also be your clutch fluid heating up and losing it's vicousity.

[SRdave240]

I had the exact same problem with my SPEC stage II. The clutch will hold 380 ftlbs of torque. You are nowhere near that number so that isn't the problem. Most likely it is your engagement point - just like Vitamin T said. Get a FSM and look it up. My pedal was engaging way too far off the floor. I reset mine and it has been fine ever since. I also removed the dampner box and put in a SS clutch line for $25 from K2RD.com. I also flushed all the fluid and replaced it with Valvoline Synpower.

My clutch now feels great and holds great.

[nnkfws333]

Just wondering what tires your using and what did you launch at? Im gonna head to the track in a week or so, so I wanted to see what can help me out a little.

[ItzGenX]

I already have a Nismo SS Clutch line. It must be my engagement point. My clutch begins to catch at about 2 inches before the top of the pedal. Full engagement is at an inch from the top. Where does yours grab at?

nnk:I have crappy Cooper tires in the back that came with my car when I bought it 9 months ago. I launch at around 5500-6000rpm while using good clutch control to keep it from spinning with the rapid building boost. I've tried 4000rpm and under and it didn't seem to build boost fast enough for me to cut it down to a 2.0 60ft time.

[VitaminT]

My pedal engagement was very high like that and my ACT clutch would start slipping during a hot summer day with city driving. I found that adjusting the clutch master cylinder (rod that attaches to the pedal) lowered the engagement point on the pedal and now it holds like hell. Sounds similar you your situation in that it only happened when it got very hot.

[ItzGenX]

Ok thanks. I hope this works for me. I'll try adjusting it on tuesday when I'm off of work.

[SRdave240]

It must be my engagement point. My clutch begins to catch at about 2 inches before the top of the pedal. Full engagement is at an inch from the top. Where does yours grab at?

That is where mine was engaging when I was having problems. If you don't have access to the fsm, just set it so that it enganes halfway btwn where it engages now and the floor.

btw - those are good times. Any omore tips on poulling a 2.0 60' on crappy street tires? The best i was able to manage was a 2.15 on similar tires. I was launching at 5000 rpms and feathering the throttle. I also have a J30 VLSD.

[ItzGenX]

For a 2.0 60ft time, I just slip the clutch to build some boost. I think with an LSD I can get it cut lower. It's really all about practice I guess. First off, you are going to have to figure out the grip limit of your car on that track. I had spun out so many times my first time going to the track and tried to find the limit before it spins. That got me my 13.85@101 my first time at the track with the SR. Now that I got used to this 'g-force' I kind of know when it will spin and when it won't and correct the clutch accordingly. I did pretty consistent last time with all 2.0-2.1 60ft times and all times were faster then my previous best of 13.85.