tps correct?

[wild_maxx]

ok today i have been working with my tps setting. i put a new tps on a few months ago and i didnt do it correctly the first time so i want to make sure i do it correct this time. first, i put on the new tps and put the screws in the top and bottom but left then loose, then pluged it all in and started the car and let it idle until it was up to full operating temperature. shut off car then probed into middle wire of large tps plug (not one directly connected to tps unit) and rotated the tps until i got a reading of .44 then tightened down holding screws. second i took a reading at WOT and got 3.54, is this the correct method to caliberate the tps? Am i using the correct volt setting to do measurments?

closed throttle

WOT

[NISTECH]

[wild_maxx]

so everything is in spec? when i drove it with the larger tps unplugged, it drove really well. with is plugged in it kinda hesitates when starting out in gear. any suggestions?

[NISTECH]

when it is unplugged it is in base mode The ecm does not look at certain sensors when it is in base mode, you could have a sensor not registering properly. how bad of a hesitation is it?

[wild_maxx]

when i start out in first, i have to rev up the motor past 2k rpm's just to get going. i just hesitates between 1k and about 1800

[NISTECH]

So this hesitation causes the car to stall if you dont have some RPM ? Correct me if thats an inaccurate statement.

Plug your tps in and start the car. loosen the tps adjusting screws. Rotate the tps just till the idle jumps up. as soon as the idle jumps rotate it back just on the other side of where it makes it jump then drive the car. see if that makes a difference. The tps adjusting method you were using really isnt the correct procedure any more, nissan has changed the procedure to use feeler guages and the hard idle contacts to properly set it. That is the engineering way of doing it. The methid I just told you is the same thing but with out the spec perfectionist method engineers so love to use.

[wild_maxx]

well i am checking the actual tps voltage itself, and i get 12 volts with the car running of not running, and as i raise the idle with my hand the voltage keeps going up. should the tps itself be at 12 volts?

[NISTECH]

which wire are you getting 12v on?

[wild_maxx]

both of them. on the tps unit itself there are only 2 wires that run into it. there are 3 prongs but only 2 yellow wires that run from the harness into the tps unit.

[s13sr20chris]

tps should never see 12v. you want to go by the closed throttle switch as nistech was saying.

[wild_maxx]

when i do a voltage reading from the actuall tps isself while plugged in i get 12 volts on both wires. what does that mean? no ground for it?

[NISTECH]

clearly in your first post you have a typical voltage measurement from your tps. How is now you have 12volts???

[wild_maxx]

if you look at my first pic above you can see that i was testing the larger plug for voltage, now i am checing the actual tps itself that is on the TB. when i put the positive terminal into the back of the tps plug i get a reading of 12 volts.

[wild_maxx]

here you can see what i am talking about. i am testing the voltage at the tps. the positive terminal is put in back of tps plug which has 2 yellow wires going into it. at no thottle i get 10-12 volts depending where i adjust the tps to and at WOT i get around 14 volts.

[NISTECH]

Ok gotcha you are testing the hard idle contacts. What you are seeing is normal, voltage is supplied to the switch and at idle the switch is closed therefore you will have battery voltage on either side. When you give it throttle you will lose voltage at one side of the switch. Doing a voltage check on this switch is useless. Do what I told you to do earlier and dont worry about probing it for any voltage measurements. Just make sure the switch closes at idle and if you just crack the throttle the switch should go open.

I could take a guess at about what it should be set at using a feeler gauge but I dont have the exact specs on an SR20DET using the feeler gauge method.

[wild_maxx]

just for the record i have a kae-t not an SR thanx for your help.

[NISTECH]

oh my bad I was looking at the pic and said well thats not a 24DE so it must be a Sr..lol

in that case set unplug your hard idle swith connector[the one with 2 wires your testing] set your meter on ohms. put both your leads on the terminals in the switch that have wires going to them. break out your feeler gauge pull out your.008 and .012 blades. where the stop screw is on the other side of the throttle body put in the.012 gauge. Your meter should read open circuit. If it reads anything other then open circuit[no reading or simply and "I"] then adjust the switch/tps till it does. Now pull out the .012 and insert the .008 it should now read 0.00. If not adjust it till it does. This is a tight tolorance so easy when moving the tps to get your reading. You must go back and forth till you aquire both readings. What you are doing is setting up the switch so it opens between .008" and .012" but it must be closed at and below .008" and open at and above .012"

DO NOT adjust the stop screw for the throttle body that is a calibration screw for your specific throttle body. It is not a tuning point for the car. It is only used during manufacturing of your throttle body so it does not jam closed while in use.